Building future B230F+T, have some questions

Hello TB,

After months of internal debate between swapping either a 93+ B230FT or B230F+T in place of my current slaptastic motor in the 92 wagon, I saw an ad for a good running 95 NA motor from an EGR 940 for cheap with 191k and jumped on it, therefore my path was decided: B230F+T.

Based off what I've read, my eventual goal will be around 300 whp. Initially it will be less of course but I will build up to that. I also need it do be dd and long road trip reliable.

For now, I'm thinking that while I accumulate the rest of the turbo parts, I swap the new motor in and keep it NA since I'm can't have thr car out of service for too long. However since I already have the engine out, it would be really easy to prepare it for a +T. Currently I plan on drilling, and tapping the oil drain 1/2 npt. Then I'll do a fitting that goes to 10 an and then put a 10 an cap on it to seal it temporarily. I was also planning on checking the oil pump transfer tube seal thing, and doing the other seals on the engine. Also gonna delete the EGR (just need to swap exhaust manifold right?)

Beyond that, I'm unsure how far I should go. Should I replace/check the oil pump? Check bearing clearences? Do a complete rebuild with new bearings and hone cylinders and new rings? Head work?


These are some of the questions I have before I start and am hoping those with more knowledge and experience can help.

Ad boost to your ol slappy and blow it up first, great learning experience and won't cost you anything when it goes.

All the 90+exhaust manifolds ive seen have an EGR port, if your not going to run it you'll have to plug/cap it
If the 95 motor is in good shape then just checking over the seals and gaskets should be fine unless your going to beat on it while on these road trips.

James M said:

Ad boost to your ol slappy and blow it up first, great learning experience and won't cost you anything when it goes.

All the 90+exhaust manifolds ive seen have an EGR port, if your not going to run it you'll have to plug/cap it
If the 95 motor is in good shape then just checking over the seals and gaskets should be fine unless your going to beat on it while on these road trips.

Click to expand...

Boosting McSlappy does sound like fun but I don't have nearly any turbo parts currently anyways.

Also, update regarding the EGR: it does have the port on the exhaust manifold but after pulling the engine out of the car and inspecting it more closely, it also has egr ports cast into the head below each exhaust port... didn't know that was a thing haha. I guess I can swap my normal head on pretty easily

Air injection.

volvohyes said:

Boosting McSlappy does sound like fun but I don't have nearly any turbo parts currently anyways.

Also, update regarding the EGR: it does have the port on the exhaust manifold but after pulling the engine out of the car and inspecting it more closely, it also has egr ports cast into the head below each exhaust port... didn't know that was a thing haha. I guess I can swap my normal head on pretty easily

Click to expand...

Pulse Air Injection

I wouldn't, if it doesn't need a head gasket just plug the holes, I just did this on my engine.
If it's out of the car just drill and tap the holes for 1/4" NPT and buy four plugs.

Dicktater said:

Pulse Air Injection

I wouldn't, if it doesn't need a head gasket just plug the holes, I just did this on my engine.
If it's out of the car just drill and tap the holes for 1/4" NPT and buy four plugs.

Click to expand...

Hmmm, what about drilling and taping into the combustion chamber?

volvohyes said:

Hmmm, what about drilling and taping into the combustion chamber?

Click to expand...

You won't if you use common sense, the plugs are very short. My advice is do it while the engine is out, the good news is the drill bit you need is a 7/16" very common and a 1/4" NPT tap.

If you try it with engine installed you will hate it......ask me how I know.

There are plugs that you can buy from Volvo for not much money. No drilling would be needed.

Dicktater said:

You won't if you use common sense, the plugs are very short. My advice is do it while the engine is out, the good news is the drill bit you need is a 7/16" very common and a 1/4" NPT tap.

If you try it with engine installed you will hate it......ask me how I know.

Click to expand...

Forget what I said, must've been tired, for some reason I thought the egr pipes open into each combustion chamber but they obviously must open into the exhaust ports. But I guess I'll see when I take off those pipes in a few days

white855T said:

There are plugs that you can buy from Volvo for not much money. No drilling would be needed.

Click to expand...

Do you know the name or part number of these plugs?

Dicktater said:

You won't if you use common sense, the plugs are very short. My advice is do it while the engine is out, the good news is the drill bit you need is a 7/16" very common and a 1/4" NPT tap.

If you try it with engine installed you will hate it......ask me how I know.

Click to expand...

Now that I have the exhaust and egr pipes off I see what you mean. What did you use as a thread sealent? I'm guessing Teflon tape won't hold up to well in the exhaust port...

It is not EGR.

ZVOLV said:

It is not EGR.

Click to expand...

Yes you're right, my bad. I meant to say pulsed air injection. Question still stands though

volvohyes said:

Now that I have the exhaust and egr pipes off I see what you mean. What did you use as a thread sealent? I'm guessing Teflon tape won't hold up to well in the exhaust port...

Click to expand...

That port would be normally pressurized except for exhaust scavenging effects. I think you will have minimal impact with some tiny leakage. Never Seize will with stand exhaust temps.

DET17 said:

That port would be normally pressurized except for exhaust scavenging effects. I think you will have minimal impact with some tiny leakage. Never Seize will with stand exhaust temps.

Click to expand...

Thanks! I'll look into getting some

I used this >https://www.jbweld.com/product/j-b-extremeheat

Maybe not required but it gave me that feel good feeling and for ten bucks why not.

What ever route you go don't use coins, I did this being lazy when the engine was on the stand.....what a mistake one slight leak and the exhaust burnt thru the coin like a laser.

Then I had to drill/tap/plug with engine in car.....off with turbo/manifold, and then buy a small 90 degree air drill.

Do it right while the engine is on the stand! The plugs white855T posted about sound promising, I had no idea that was an option at the time so I used 1/4" NPT plugs.

Dicktater said:

I used this >https://www.jbweld.com/product/j-b-extremeheat

Maybe not required but it gave me that feel good feeling and for ten bucks why not.

What ever route you go don't use coins, I did this being lazy when the engine was on the stand.....what a mistake one slight leak and the exhaust burnt thru the coin like a laser.

Then I had to drill/tap/plug with engine in car.....off with turbo/manifold, and then buy a small 90 degree air drill.

Do it right while the engine is on the stand! The plugs white855T posted about sound promising, I had no idea that was an option at the time so I used 1/4" NPT plugs.

Click to expand...

Huh that stuff looks neat, I'll take a look at that too

Dicktater said:

Do it right while the engine is on the stand! The plugs white855T posted about sound promising, I had no idea that was an option at the time so I used 1/4" NPT plugs.

Click to expand...

I believe it was hiperfauto who posted about plugs but I can't find the thread with info. You can pm him for the part number.