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Old 05-07-2013, 11:32 AM   #51
gsellstr
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First install I got everything in, went to crank it and had nothing. A little diagnosing later I found the BH wasn't cast right so it bound up on the ring gear. Had to take 3/16" off there to give it 1/16" of clearance for the teeth before it fit. Pilot bushing was a joke, clutch disc has never been impressive, even with a new 1500lb pressure plate, had to get a speedo cable locally since they sent a RHD one even knowing I was in the US and needed a LHD one. They offered to send me a replacement on my dime, so I went local and got one for half their price.

All in all I just was not impressed in the slightest, but this was back before the T5 swap was really a viable option.
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Old 05-07-2013, 02:23 PM   #52
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First install I got everything in, went to crank it and had nothing. A little diagnosing later I found the BH wasn't cast right so it bound up on the ring gear. Had to take 3/16" off there to give it 1/16" of clearance for the teeth before it fit. Pilot bushing was a joke, clutch disc has never been impressive, even with a new 1500lb pressure plate, had to get a speedo cable locally since they sent a RHD one even knowing I was in the US and needed a LHD one. They offered to send me a replacement on my dime, so I went local and got one for half their price.

All in all I just was not impressed in the slightest, but this was back before the T5 swap was really a viable option.
noted. Thanks for the info.
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Old 05-07-2013, 02:31 PM   #53
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Also keep in mind that was 10 years ago, they HOPEFULLY cleaned up their quality since then, but I haven't spoken to anyone that has dealt with them since then either.

My setup will likely be for sale in the next 12-18 months as well, since I'll be going T5.
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Old 05-13-2013, 09:47 AM   #54
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How much for your set up?
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Old 05-13-2013, 10:22 AM   #55
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Check your pm inbox...
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Old 08-19-2013, 11:12 PM   #56
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Did you make that fog grill Gary or is it an OE?
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Old 08-19-2013, 11:25 PM   #57
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Hah, I wish it was OE. Last one of that style I saw (a grand total of 1 in 15 years on ebay) went for $800 NIB. This one is simply a stock grille cut for the lights, home-brew brackets for them as well.
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Old 08-20-2013, 01:14 PM   #58
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Hah, I wish it was OE. Last one of that style I saw (a grand total of 1 in 15 years on ebay) went for $800 NIB. This one is simply a stock grille cut for the lights, home-brew brackets for them as well.
that was in the last couple years right? I remember seeing one go for a small fortune
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Old 08-20-2013, 02:18 PM   #59
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Yeah, around 2011 I think. First and only one I've EVER seen.
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Old 09-03-2013, 01:05 AM   #60
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Just a teaser of things to come...


108k on an SN95 5.0 box (3.35/.68), should drop my cruise rpm from 3700@70 to around 2700@70, while being a nicer box as well. Grabbed the aluminum driveline from a 96 Aerostar AWD, dead on the same length as a stock Mustang driveline, same yokes except a little shorter length on the front yoke, and WAY lighter than the steel driveline that's in the car now. Already have the bellhousing, DeeWorks adapter setup, so I just need the input shaft, Yoshifab adapter, speedo cable/drive unit/gear set, clutch, and time to fab a crossmember. I grabbed the SN95 crossmember as well, in case it's easy enough to modify or use for mockup.

This should hopefully be a winter project.

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Old 10-13-2013, 12:56 AM   #61
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Been playing with the tune on the car a bit this week. Playing with the timing and fuel a bit, I managed a LOT more grunt at WOT and cruise, trimmed AFR's a bit, and not only did I get better power across the board and drivability, but I also managed around 24-25mpg on the highway, up 2-4mpg over before. I can only imagine how that will translate once the T5 goes in and the cruise rpm drops from 3700 to 2700...
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Old 10-22-2013, 07:26 PM   #62
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We talked at Suzy's Burgers a while back about the T-5 conversion if you remember or not? Just found your thread, and I have to say you have my all time favorite Volvo! I would like to know how you did up against the road runner? My first car was a 69 GTX which was very similar to the car you are racing!
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Old 10-22-2013, 09:38 PM   #63
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Hah, that was a laugh of a race, many MANY years ago. He was ripping off 10's or so, and as of yet the 140 hasn't done better than about a 18.0. It should have a 17.x in it now if I could get the clutch to hold at a launch over about 1500-2000, but that's a moot point until the T5 goes in. That's actually slated for this winter now, so perhaps next spring I'll roll that thing to the track and see what 120-130rwhp does in it. I do remember talking to you, glad you jumped in over here!
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Old 11-05-2013, 10:18 PM   #64
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Hah, I wish it was OE. Last one of that style I saw (a grand total of 1 in 15 years on ebay) went for $800 NIB. This one is simply a stock grille cut for the lights, home-brew brackets for them as well.

Homebrew brackets and what lights? Looks so OE. Picked up an extra grill at pnp and was fixin to use a hacksaw blade to cut the eggcrates out.
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Old 11-05-2013, 11:19 PM   #65
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Those are actually Hella 450's with driving lenses. Those with the Silverstar 7" rounds and the highs are virtual daylight.
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Old 02-24-2014, 06:11 PM   #66
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Well, looks like it's time for a little more of an update.

Tuning over the last couple months got a bit more grunt from it, but it's more of a pain to drive thanks to the clutch.

That said, over the next month I'll be getting the T5 dropped in there. Parts showing up this week include a full clutch kit from Southbend Clutches rated for 275ft.lbs, a yoke from Fastshafts that will allow the aerostar driveline to work without the Yoshi adapter since I have a flange on the car currently that takes the same 1310 joints as the Aerostar shaft, making it a truly plug and play setup. The yoke that's coming is slightly longer than the stock Mustang yoke which should deal with the length difference easily enough. Also have a new Fox body input shaft and stage 2 rebuild kit here at my desk from Astro Performance, and a poly mount and shift knob from Summit. Been a busy month for the credit card, but parts sales have paid for all of this so realistically, thank you guys for your support. lol

Hopefully this weekend or next will be the T5 overhaul, then it's down to an install, measure for the speedo cable and get that made locally, then see how it does.
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Old 02-24-2014, 06:15 PM   #67
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good to hear it garrryy!!!!

but you forgot the final step ... bring to western meet!
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Old 02-24-2014, 06:48 PM   #68
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Won't happen for a few reasons, one of those being I can't sleep comfy in it like I can the wagon.

You can come to Davis to see it though!
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Old 02-25-2014, 10:27 PM   #69
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Love to see some under car pics once you get everything in and buttoned up. I am having a bit of driveshaft clearance issues, but that might be because I've lowered it the car. For my T5 speedo cable, I just bought a Mustang one, 'pulled' the in car end off and put the volvo one on. Works like a charm and the length is pretty darn close. Mind you, I haven't put all that many miles on it.
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Old 02-25-2014, 11:38 PM   #70
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good to know on the cable. I have a local shop that can make them to spec anyway.

pics for sure, maybe even along the way not just when finished. Lol

already have a 3" 1 piece and it is tight. centering the diff is critical and going too low won't allow you much travel.
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Old 03-23-2014, 02:43 AM   #71
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Alas, the T5 is resting comfy in the car now, took it out for a test drive earlier. Gotta get the pinion lined up, get the driveshaft lengthened, and get a speedo cable. Haven't hit the freeway, probably won't until the driveshaft has more length inside the trans, but 5th gear is much nicer for cruising, the rest of the gear split works nice with the 4.1 rear gearset, and the shifting with the Hurst shifter is VERRRY nice, plus the clutch actually works as it should again.

Found a new route for a crossmember as well, for those looking to do the swap on a 1-series or 2-series. Grab a crossmember from a 94-2000 Mustang manual trans car (mine was from a 94 5.0), plus a couple riv-nuts to install into the frame. Minor trimming on the crossmember, drill 4 holes, drill 3 in the 140 or 2 in the 240 frame rail, install riv-nuts, install crossmember, bolt to trans. Absolutely no welding required at all, centered the trans perfect in the shifter hole, height is very nice as well, shifter sits so 1 of the 2 bolts sits above, 1 below the opening in the tunnel. I ended up using the Mustang shifter after straightening it laterally so it didn't hit the seat. Pic's will make it clear why.

Driveline is the Aerostar AWD variant the Mustang guys use, but it's about 1.5" too short, partly due to me not using the Yoshi adapter, but rather a flange that bolts right to the Volvo diff (runs $30, standard Spicer unit). Might be able to use a Ranger driveline if you don't mind steel, but the correct length is closer to 47-47.5", rather than the 45.5" mentioned when using the Yoshi adapter. This is for a 140 anyway, but that's been my findings.

Pic's when I get to it.
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Old 03-25-2014, 07:59 AM   #72
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Just a teaser of things to come...

You would want to use a smaller diameter shaft than that as the 2" Volvo shaft does not clear the floor either. For my rear shaft I got a M40 shaft from a 245. It has the small yoke, uni and shaft with the large uni and flange at the diff where you truly need it.

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Old 03-25-2014, 10:35 AM   #73
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Honestly, with the T5 in place the output sits a touch lower than the Celica box did, so the 3" fits pretty well in there.

Had to get the Mustang shaft lengthened by 2", should have that back today along with the speedo cable as well.

Next is to figure out why no 3-2 shift, though rumor is that may simply be due to putting M1 ATF in instead of non-synthetic. All the internals are either new or look new, so there's no reason it shouldn't be shifting and all upshifts plus most downshifts are clean and buttery smooth. A swap to some Castrol D3 may be in order. Also going to adjust the pinion angle when the driveline goes in tonight as it's off a little.
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Old 03-27-2014, 02:19 AM   #74
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So, it's alive!! Pinion angle adjusted, speedo cable in, new driveline in (47" c-c instead of the Aerostar/Mustang at 45.5" c-c, fit is much better at the trans), took it out for a test drive. This trans is quieter than the Celica box a little, plus the pinion angle is closer, but I am seriously thinking the diff wasn't setup right years back. I've always wondered since they fubar'd the install anyway. May have to dig into that at some point.

Funny, the 3-2 shift is clean now, without doing a fluid swap even.

Good news as well, 65mph is 2800rpm, not 3600rpm, so freeway time will be MUCH nicer! Clutch is buttery smooth, lighter feel than the old one as well.

Bad news...trans gets to come back out.
1. Oil leak from the top/case junction, despite a solid bead of RTV.
2. Replace reverse syncro brake that I snapped the ear off of.
3. Replace tailshaft housing bushing possibly (didn't get one with the rebuild kit oddly, seems like there's a bit of play, not sure tolerances yet).
4. Swap 8-tooth speedo drive gear for 7 tooth and install 24t driven gear (currently 50mph on the gps shows 70 on the speedo).
5. Add a little bracing back to the crossmember and trim a couple ears off for a slightly cleaner, stronger brace.

All that aside, that's an easy out and in deal over a weekend. Drives nice as it is, got a little random vibration momentarily going from drive to coast which I suspect is the bushing, otherwise it drives nice!
Gotta get used to a clutch that engages normally though on an engine that revs quick. I think this pressure plate is perhaps a little better balanced or lighter, or both, engine seems smoother winding up than with the old one (supposedly it was balanced with the flywheel, curious on that now though).

Pic's when I get more time and it's not past my bed time...
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Old 03-29-2014, 04:37 PM   #75
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Okay, finally, time for updates...

First up...out with the old (Celica box was 10lbs heavier, didn't shift as nice, wouldn't hold as much power, and didn't have a decent 5th gear)...


Hmm, clutch indeed wasn't happy...

But that's easily solved with this...


Which attaches to this (weighing in at 16.5lbs)...


Time for the install...first up the piece of hi-po buttery goodness...

Then time to stab the trans. Once the trans was in (no pic's, you all know the process, yadda yadda), then it was time for a crossmember. Happened to grab the crossmember with the T5 from a 94 Mustang 5.0 (yes, I swapped the input shaft). Personally, I would recommend this crossmember in a heartbeat! You can see where I trimmed, but I over-trimmed it actually. I cut the plate out to give me a spot to drill holes, but I should have left most of that in place. I will weld it back on at some point when the trans comes out for some touch-up stuff). Both sides were cut, the pic just shows before and after.
The crossmember...









Installed in the car, on the 140 there's no bottom facing holes on the passenger side, but on the drivers side one of the holes can be used. For the other 3 I used a 5/16" riv-nut installed into the frame rail. For the 240 guys, the crossmember width is the same between the Mustang and 240 crossmember, so you can reuse 2 holes, add 2 holes in (tool cost me $40 including 10 riv nuts), and you're set.

All that said, there's a few final details.
Driveline - Tried the Mustang driveline with the rear flange I already had, ended up 1.5" too short, so I had a custom 3" made. For those of you wondering, yes, there is a flange that bolts to our diff but runs a 1310 u-joint. It's a Spicer 2-2-239 flange. With that flange, the stock Mustang front yoke, I ended up at 47" center to center on the shaft. Weight for the shaft in alum. with .125" wall is 9lbs. The Aerostar shaft I was trying out was 6, but .065" wall.
Speedo cable - Local shop did up the cable, however upon the initial test drive, the speedo is WAY off and there's no ratio available that will work. Ideally it needs a 7t drive and 24t driven, but the largest driven which has a history of problems due to size is a 23t. I'll likely end up with a ratio adapter to deal with it.
Shifter - The Hurst shifter is awesome, plus it allowed me to flip the pivot ball shaft around so the lever bolts to the pass. side of the shaft instead of the driver side which gave more clearance to the tunnel opening. I did have to heat and bend the shift lever itself (from the 94 Mustang) to allow for clearance to the driver seat when in 2nd.
Trans mount - Went with the Energy poly mount, no issues at all. With the crossmember setup and the 5* clocking of the trans from horizontal, everything actually lined up really well. No issues with vibration either.
Gearing - 1st is similar to what I had with the Celica box so it's not bad at all with the 4.10 diff. Ratios are actually pretty nice on the street, haven't had it on the highway yet, but 65mph in 5th is around 2800rpm with the .68 5th, instead of 3600 on the Celica box with it's .85 5th.

So far it's nice to drive, still have so issues with a vibration but I think the tailshaft bushing is done for, so after Davis I'll pull the trans, replace that, the reverse syncro brake that I snapped the ear off of, and reseal the top which somehow is leaking.

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