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16v valve lifter alternatives

Not even worth shipping them over any longer with the VW ones at that price.
Good to have the shared info on bits like that and as long as they work and do what is needed
 
"Iwannabeareacer" isn't me. I merely asked about substitutes, and knowledgeable/willing people answered. Furthermore, all 3 options John listed are hydraulic.


I didn't say that you were Iwannabercer....nor did I suggest or imply that you were..I respnded to the guy in Sachens about weights being un-important and certainly not
"much less"...

I have previously posted INA partnumbers showing that the B234 and Ford Cosworth YB 35mm hydraulic followers/lifter/lyftare were the same part number
And that when used in a stock YBB/YBG the stock engines are rated good for 7000 rpm continuous..And they are...And they are controlling slightly larger valves (which weigh a tiny bit more>

Logically if they word at 7000 continuous and bursts above, reports from unverified rumors that they do something naughty at 6800 should be looked at a little leerily.

The VW ones interchange...The hydraulic portion feels to my thumb softer to plunge
There are certainly other engines using 35mm buckets. I believe stock fuel cut in the VW is 6250...

...VW intake valves are the size of YBB/YBG exhaust valve--32mm
They clearly have an easier job than YBB/YBG or B234 which also has relatively large valves (34mm intakes with a long stem on the B234, 35mm for the YBs..

And the question never asked is why are you planning on replacing the lifters? Rust? hyraulic part not working..
What is the point of asking --to confirm something you've already decided to do?

Planning on new? Know how to check the ones you have?

The knowledgeable and willing people are friendly and want to be helpful, but you don't give enough info for anybody to make a serious response to because they question is not in a context...So they just chat pleasantly and repeat unverified musings from years ago...
helpful, some truthiness..
 
"Iwannabeareacer" isn't me. I merely asked about substitutes, and knowledgeable/willing people answered. Furthermore, all 3 options John listed are hydraulic.

The VW diesel lifters are not hydraulic. The version I got wasn't even shimmed - which made them even lighter. You had to grind lash gaps to gap them. Which was a very tedious process. Times 16.

But very light and not hydraulic.
 
The VW diesel lifters are not hydraulic. The version I got wasn't even shimmed - which made them even lighter. You had to grind lash gaps to gap them. Which was a very tedious process. Times 16.

But very light and not hydraulic.

wow. Hell, I even have owned two/three VW IDI diesels and thought they used shims.
Yeah, I'd rather run hydraulics to avoid grinding 16 individual lash caps. I'm not going to rev it beyond 7k anyway.
 
I was using them with a 'bit' too much cam as well. The motor was a ridiculous on/off switch. It was either low rpm, off boost, and literally barely moving the car at all, or it was revved up and on boost and *SCREAMING. And very little in between.

I got tired of that fairly quickly, went back to stock cams and VW hydraulic lifters.
 
I redlined at 7400 rpm with my VW lifters on my 16V +t and never had a problem. I did have the Ford 4.6 springs though.
 
Why?

don't bother..Answer those deluded Iwannabearacer guys with the answer they NEED:

It's unimportant because you are not revving the things to 10,000 rpm so obessing about weights is wanking and the hydraulic ones are good to 7000 and 99% never rev to there either...


It'll just be more truthiness nonsense: True but so insignificant as to be un-measurable in how a car goes as to be meaningless.

10k to 7k to "you're not going to be there anyway" is a fairly quick progression (though not entirely incorrect). However, should one want and need to spin say.. 8500, what then is the general consensus...
 
10k to 7k to "you're not going to be there anyway" is a fairly quick progression (though not entirely incorrect). However, should one want and need to spin say.. 8500, what then is the general consensus...

16v rally motor used BTR 32v springs (installed @ 90lbs I think...) and VW lifters. Redline was set at 7.5k, but it would run over 8k without issues. Didn't have any issues getting there.

I had to machine the retainers to fit the spring, but otherwise a direct drop-in replacement. If I used 32v retainers, it would have probably all been drop in easy-peasy.

https://www.briantooleyracing.com/500-lift-ford-4v-modular-springs.html
 
10k to 7k to "you're not going to be there anyway" is a fairly quick progression (though not entirely incorrect). However, should one want and need to spin say.. 8500, what then is the general consensus...


Solid shim under or solid + lash caps select...
There's even a select fit dealio to un-hydraulic the hydraulics..:)

But this is turbobricks, no point in just fapp-u-lational-abstract Bench racing..:oops:
 
There's even a select fit dealio to un-hydraulic the hydraulics..:)

A metric dowel pin fits very nicely inside the hydraulic bucket once you remove the guts.
Grinding those to set the lash would be real easy.

Now you just need to find some cheap solid lifter cams...
 
Solid shim under or solid + lash caps select...
There's even a select fit dealio to un-hydraulic the hydraulics..:)

But this is turbobricks, no point in just fapp-u-lational-abstract Bench racing..:oops:

I was asking for myself. I'd love a hydraulic lifter that would keep up with the abuse, I live in fear of (and have had) shims and lash caps come loose under duress and cause problems.
 
Yeah, if a hydro lifter overpumps or underpumps, it at least returns to normal after a little bit. And if a lifter floats up off the valve stem under extreme use, it's still going to 'land' back down on it. But a lash cap? CLink rattle clunk everything has to come apart.

The lash caps I was using with the one-piece (no shims) solid lifters at least reached down onto the valve stem fairly far. It would take quite a lifter hop for them to have enough room to fall out. But it's certainly in the realm of possibility.
 
Dealing with such woes on my 8v now. With the right spring a lash cap should never be so uncontrolled as to bounce like that. Should..
 
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