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The Smurf Replacement - 1983 244 GLT

smurf244

The smurf is no more
Joined
May 28, 2006
Location
Atlanta
The Smurf Replacement - 1983 244 GLT(Updated with working pics!)

With the Smurf gone, the GT project not even started, and me trying to sell the S60, I needed to get another car ready so I can do some work on the wagon.
I found on Craigslists a none running 1983 244 GLT manual with 250k miles on it for $250. The PO brought it from a retired Volvo tech in '99 who kept it well maintain. In 2002, it would not pass emission so the owner didn't think it was worth fixen so it just used it to drive around on the farm. After a year or 2, it stop running so he parked it and after he got tired of his wife nagging to sell it, he put it up on Craigslist.
I went and looked at and it looked like to be a very clean, no body damage or major rust, and maybe not much was needed to get it back on the road. I brought for $150 and took it home that day.
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As I figured, the pumps were dead and fuel dist. was stuck, so I empty the gas tank, put on some new pumps and freed up the fuel dist. Though in a fresh battery and gas and to my amazement, it fired right on up::wtf:, and after some adjustments, it was drivable:omg:. After only putting less then 200 miles on it, the alternator belt broke and the rad. split all to hell and this was the start of a seeming never ending nightmare.
I thought I would just be able to slap on some belts and a rad. but that would be the case. The adjustment bolt was rusted and seized to the alternator so I had to put on a spare 940 100 amp alternator in place and it was a really tight fit. When I go to started it, it wouldn't start:grrr:, I had spark but no fuel. I thought maybe the CPR was bad because there was not much fuel coming out but guess again.
After a few days of bad words and tool trowing, I found out the new pumps were dead and was the weekend so I decided to go ahead and change the interior aver to black with some 850 seats and install a booming stereo system.
This post is getting kinda long so I will couture it later until then here are some more pictures if I can pbase to work right.
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Adam
 
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The car was dead so you put a new interior and system in it? Only you Adam! :-P

What happened to the Smurf? What work are you doing to the 940?
 
How many of the cars we +T'd that fateful weekend are still running?
 
The car was dead so you put a new interior and system in it? Only you Adam! :-P

What happened to the Smurf? What work are you doing to the 940?

I was board and it didn't have a system and the interior was shot.
The Smurf had a carport collapse on it when to much snow built up on it.
The 940 needs the whole brake system redone and fix a few oil leaks.

How many of the cars we +T'd that fateful weekend are still running?

The car was still running great when the engine was pulled; only problem was it kept popping transmissions.

Adam
 
I see that my pictures are not showing up, I think I am going to give up on pbase. I have tried many different things and still nothing.:grrr:
 
Now I have the picture thing fixed, its time to some updating.
After the pumps went dead, I went ahead and striped the interior where I found some car cancer thanks to a stopped up sunroof drain.
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The rust is from the front of the back floor pan to the firewall on the driver side. It really is that bad so I just cleaned it up and sealed it. I will take the pan out of the smurf and put it in this one.
I sprayed the rest of the floor pans with sound deader/undercoating with the hopes of covering it later with dynomat after the rust repair but I did put dynomat everyelse. After wiring in the alarm/keyless entry and running the wires for the stereo system, I throw in the black caret from the 262 that was junked.
I didn't have any black 244 door panels so I painted tan ones and some of the other plastic and vinyl pieces.
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I couldn't do all that interior work and just throw in some uncomfortable and ugly 240 seats. I had Wren Wright weld me up some seat brackets to fit some 850 seats and used the recovered rear sets I had for the Smurf. The seats are move back and forward with the 240 tracks and the seat bottom tilt is fixed but the back is still electric.
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By this time I had the pumps installed and was getting fuel to the injectors but the intake was still off. I just couldn't stand to put that noneffective B21FT manifold back on and it didn't make any sense to spend the money on a custom one so bring in the B21F manifold.
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It went together with out much problem; I have a lot of intercooler plumbing parts so I was able to come up with a combo that worked. I used the B21 TB and the B21FT idle motor which sits under the #2 runner and with a few vacuum T's, got all the vacuum lines hooked up.
With the new setup the throttle and boost was a little quicker and it pulls a lot harder around 3000 and up. I have a lot more planned for this car and will try to keep this thread updated so until next time, let me here your comments and ideas.

Adam
 
A little up date:
I did the terminal 11 trick and have set the boost to 15 lbs. The boost switch is set to 11 lbs. and have wired in a led to make sure the switch is working. I will post some pictures of the install probably tomorrow.
The clutch needs to be replaced even more now then before but I am still trying to decide if I want to keep the M46 or change it out. If I keep the M46, I will throw in a stepped flywheel with either a new factory HD clutch kit or some aftermarket kit. The M46 is in excellent conduction and I could save it and put in a T5 or something along the lines.
 
I think I'd stick with the flat flywheel, and get a Centerforce, or other performance clutch. Never really liked the dog dish that was on my 245's original motor, so I left the flattie that was on the B23FT when it was in my 242, and mated the 245's tranny to it.

-J
 
I think I'd stick with the flat flywheel, and get a Centerforce, or other performance clutch. Never really liked the dog dish that was on my 245's original motor, so I left the flattie that was on the B23FT when it was in my 242, and mated the 245's tranny to it.

-J

The only resone I thought about going with the dog dish flywheel was because it uses a larger clutch disk but I could save it for GT for the T5.

Why did you not like the dog dish?
 
A little update with pictures.
As I said earlier, I did the terminal 11 trick with the boost turned up shorting the fuse on the M46. This trick has made the car even more fun to drive and would recommend it; the car starts to pull like crazy around 3k.
Here are the promised pictures:
Calibration the TB way.
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The switch part number and such.
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Switch installed in the passenger kick panel.
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After I been enjoying the mods, I was coming home from a late night :oogle: and the car starting bogging and the lights went dim. I pulled over and check the voltage only to find I had only 10.7 volts.:grrr: Long story sort, the voltage regulator was bad partially due to a leaking water pump witch made my day even more sh*tier esp. when I pulled the timing cover off; I found that the day was gonna get worse thanks to leaking seals.:censored:
After finding out all this, I decided to go ahead and do more provenience maintenance I got an idea:omg:, put in the IPD cam for the GT and redo the valve cover.
Here is was I saw when I pulled the valve cover off.
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Its prety damn clean for over 252k:wtf:
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That is it for now but will get some more updates soon cause I gotta get the car ready for SE:spin:

Adam
 
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Here are some pictures of the MBC setup.
On my MBC, the top hose goes down to the waste gate and the bottom hose comes from the intake to get teed of to the MBC and the + valve.
Overview setup
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Here is the vacuum line teed off.
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Are you using the overboost switch and the mbc?

Yes, that how I am able to get enough boot to activate the switch.
I am also still using the factory turbo+ switch so I get more fuel when its starts boosting then when 11lbs hit, the switch I added dumps in more fuel.
 
Just saw you're running the exact MBC I am- Ebay special!

Do you see reaaally bad spikes? Mine will hit near 16 some days before settling to 12.
 
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