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AQ130 (B20) rebuild for a 122

Bobbyz said:
Like I said (or did I?) the boat engine probably has very little actual use on it. Mine sure didn't had I wanted the 8 bolt crank and heavy rods it wouldn't have taken much to get it running.
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You did say haha. Are you suggesting I just clean the bottom end and run as is? Mine is already a 6 bolt crank so that's not a concern of mine.

I'll call and get prices for the simple machine work I mentioned earlier.

What cams came in the 6 bolt AQ130's?

Also does anyone have the details on modding the marine head to accept the automotive water pump. You mentioned you had done it Bobbyz...and details/tips?
 
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Talked to another machine shop I've worked with in the past. A little more like the one Andrewnance mentioned haha. Here's the pricing they gave me:

Block:
- Hot tank $40
- Deck $40
- Hone $10/cylinder

Head: $200-250
- Hot tank
- Shave
- 3 angle valve job
- Hardened exhaust seats

Total: $320-$370
 
I'd pull the bottom end apart and look at it. On a boat it's probably fine because most boats sit in storage or tied to the dock. But maybe they never changed or even checked the oil? The condition of the bearings tells alot there.

Head mods on mine were simply setting a car head next to it and drilling, tapping or plugging as needed. I could've done that on my drill press but I had the shop do it.
The only "problem" was where the heat gage sender goes into the head on the back. He only had a pipe tap but the parts store has fittings with different threads so that was easy enough. Bought a bag of different adapters for like ten bucks.
From what I see of your head it's different than mine. Once you get it side by side with a car head you'll see what it needs.

My block had all the "car" holes drilled and tapped. Just had to remove one locating pin on the timing cover.

Can't say on your cam. Did a bunch of Google searching on mine and found out it's not something you want in a car.
 
sspony said:
Talked to another machine shop I've worked with in the past. A little more like the one Andrewnance mentioned haha. Here's the pricing they gave me:

Block:
- Hot tank $40
- Deck $40
- Hone $10/cylinder

Head: $200-250
- Hot tank
- Shave
- 3 angle valve job
- Hardened exhaust seats

Total: $320-$370
Click to expand...

This number sounds better. A lot closer to what my guy charges.
 
What about running new chevy lifters (#SUM-HT992) with the isky pushrods (#VL123) and a C cam? Seems like a straight forward and affordable option. Thoughts?
 
I suppose another option is to buy new stock lifters and reuse my pushrods paired with that c-cam you have.

So one thing that's confusing me is the pushrod length. When I deck the block, shave the head and use a thinner head gasket won't that bring the rocker arm closer to the cam? So wouldn't I need a shorter pushrod or lifter to compensate for the shorter distance.

Sorry if it's a dumb question. Novice.
 
sspony said:
I suppose another option is to buy new stock lifters and reuse my pushrods paired with that c-cam you have.

So one thing that's confusing me is the pushrod length. When I deck the block, shave the head and use a thinner head gasket won't that bring the rocker arm closer to the cam? So wouldn't I need a shorter pushrod or lifter to compensate for the shorter distance.

Sorry if it's a dumb question. Novice.
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Depending on how much you shave/deck, maybe, there is a bit of adjustment to be made out if the rocker adjusters.

and its not a dumb question at all.

I would do the block, and head, then when you degree in your cam, you can measure for pushrods, drop a stock lifter in the bore, set the head on, drop a pushrod in and mock up the rocker assembly. Check the adjusters for travel. Stock might work, but its all going to depend on shaving/decking.
 
I wish there was an engine building 101 class around here haha. I've rebuilt automatic transmissions but never a motor.

I'm a visual learner so reading about how to degree a cam just doesn't quite do it haha.

Feeling intimidated by the build guys.
 
sspony said:
What about running new chevy lifters (#SUM-HT992) with the isky pushrods (#VL123) and a C cam? Seems like a straight forward and affordable option. Thoughts?
Click to expand...

That is what I was going to do with mine, but then ran across a new KG Trimming cam/lifters at a reasonable price already over here. The cam in the car is an Isky street performance and I want a longer life out of it, so I was backing off the cam anyway. I have no clue what they did or did not do correctly, but the cam was only in 10K when I bought the car.
 
You should be fine decking the block a little. I had .080" taken off of an F head and didn't need to change anything. That's still taller than an E head from the factory, IIRC. The only necessary change for me was double valve springs and that was only because of the higher lift cam.

Edit: I can't remember if that's taller than an E head actually. The thickness of the two heads is floating around here somewhere.
 
sspony said:
I wish there was an engine building 101 class around here haha. I've rebuilt automatic transmissions but never a motor.

I'm a visual learner so reading about how to degree a cam just doesn't quite do it haha.

Feeling intimidated by the build guys.
Click to expand...

you dont have to degree in a b20 cam, you can slightly play with the power curve by doing so.
 
Yeah so I looked back over my notes and the pushrods are the VL123 from Isky...

So a question, whats your budget looking like?
I've got:
~$400.00 in machine work
~$100.00 for a cam
~$150.00 for gaskets
all other parts paid for, right?
 
I currently have the following:

-oil pump
-cheap gasket kit (has a head gasket but I don't plan to use it)
-rod/main bearings (stock)
-wrist pin bushings (stock)
-deves rings (stock)
-updated rear main seal/housing
-Sachs clutch kit

I'm guessing...
$350 for machine work
$40 for chevy lifters
$100 for isky push rods
$100 for cam
$80 for water/fuel pump
$??? For carb needles
$100 for fluids and other misc

Total:$770
 
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sspony said:
Can't remember, it's just some cheap one that came in a kit. And the gasket will depend on how much I deck/shave I suppose.
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I think you are going to want to use the thinner ones, .035 or whatever they are. Not much point in decking the block and putting in a thick head gasket. You should measure your chambers, but just skimming the head and you will probably still be in the 8.5:1 range and good with low octane.

I don't think Volvo used the piston to deck values in their published CR values, so decking the block and using the right gasket is most likely to just get you to where the engine should be.

I would recommend milling the head for higher compression, it made a big difference in the low end on my B18. You could run a D cam or larger and still get a nice torquey motor that would have a little more pep at higher revs.
 
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