• Hello Guest, welcome to the initial stages of our new platform!
    You can find some additional information about where we are in the process of migrating the board and setting up our new software here

    Thank you for being a part of our community!

D24: Pile of **** or not?

suped. said:
I did alright with the ones I had. Drove my 240d for months with no glow plugs. :-P My wagon even had working SLS :oogle: .....That leaked all day, erryday.

The older Mercs are fine for working on. Engines require little attention, suspension and brakes are simple. Vacuum everything ruins them along with people that don't think you have to change the oil because its a diesel, dude. 86+, **** hit the fan with Mercedes.
Click to expand...

Sure there's lots of Mercedes diesel freaks, I meant try to get somebody to work on a 24D in a Volvo.

The dealership techs all hated them with a passion, just for starters.
 
Redwood Chair said:
Sure there's lots of Mercedes diesel freaks, I meant try to get somebody to work on a 24D in a Volvo.

The dealership techs all hated them with a passion, just for starters.
Click to expand...
You just have to take em to a VW shop. The IDI crowd knows there way around the 24D.
 
Last edited:
Also you don't need a ton of special tools to work on these. Just a dial indicator to set fuel timing, a 27mm ultra deep well socket for injectors, a special pulley puller and some triple squares, is about all you need, iirc. An injector pop tester can be useful too, but you will probably have to get the injectors rebuilt anyway by a diesel shop anyway.
 
I really haven't found may parts that are hard to get, almost all of them interchange with VVW diesel or Audi 5.
In Europe, they had the D20 (5cyl) in 2s and 7s for tax purposes mostly.
Yes, the cam breaks if the timing belt lets go. That usually happens from a failed attempt at service not getting the crank bolt tight enough.
 
Even the 5 hole Audi version was rare here. I had an Audi 4000S FWd with a 2.0Td, and repaired and had one D24 Volvo. And repaired others. I used to passionately hate them. Hacked by Elroy, stink of diesel, prone to leak, never finish on time, 1/8" cracks in the head allowed by the book.

Many parts fairly undersized.

Having said this, with proper tools and care they work, and it's just a 1.6 or 2.0 vw with 1-2 more hole and different bellhousing bolt pattern and irritating cold start device (over-advances timing and wears it out) more or less. If its your own car and you can take a little additional time on the service they can last ok.

Many have low compression or had low compression on at least 2 holes.
I've also seen the odd one make it 2-300k and still have decent compression and minimal leak down/blowby and oil consumption.

Not very forgiving of improper repairs or neglect. Don't torque everything correctly and head/cam may well go in the trash, overheat it much at all and the head is usually trash (which isn't hard to do if the cooling system isn't tip top).
 
Last edited:
Kjets On a Plane said:
Even the 5 hole Audi version was rare here. I had an Audi 4000S FWd with a 2.0Td, and repaired and had one D24 Volvo. And repaired others. I used to passionately hate them. Hacked by Elroy, stink of diesel, prone to leak, never finish on time, 1/8" cracks in the head allowed by the book.

Many parts fairly undersized.

Having said this, with proper tools and care they work, and it's just a 1.6 or 2.0 vw with 1 more hole and different bellhousing bolt pattern and irritating cold start device more or less. If its your own car and you can take a little additional time on the service they can last ok.

Many have low compression or had low compression on at least 2 holes.
I've also seen the odd one make it 2-300k and still have decent compression and minimal leak down/blowby and oil consumption.

Not very forgiving of improper repairs or neglect. Don't torque everything correctly and head/cam may well go in the trash, overheat it much at all and the head is usually trash (which isn't hard to do if the cooling system isn't tip top).
Click to expand...

I drove one for a few months that my boss had a mechanics lien on several years back. It over 200k miles on it and neary 500 psi compression on each cylinder. It never felt underpowered and always got over 35 mpg no matter how I drove it. It really is all about maintenance and not having morons work on it.

I've read that once the injectors start pissing instead of spraying, the rings and cylinder walls deteriorate quickly due to cylinder wall washing. Also, poor fuel timing can shorten the life of them as well. Injectors and fuel timing should be checked every 60k miles with the timing belt or at the first sign of fuel in oil or unburned fuel coming out the exhaust.
 
Lando said:
I drove one for a few months that my boss had a mechanics lien on several years back. It over 200k miles on it and neary 500 psi compression on each cylinder. It never felt underpowered and always got over 35 mpg no matter how I drove it. It really is all about maintenance and not having morons work on it.

I've read that once the injectors start pissing instead of spraying, the rings and cylinder walls deteriorate quickly due to cylinder wall washing. Also, poor fuel timing can shorten the life of them as well. Injectors and fuel timing should be checked every 60k miles with the timing belt or at the first sign of fuel in oil or unburned fuel coming out the exhaust.
Click to expand...

So a finicky pile of **** then?
 
Also, these Bosch VE systems have a lot of parts that interchange with diesel generators. I can't remember which models off the top of my head, but I was able to find injector heat shields and injector pump rebuild parts at a local diesel electric shop.
 
I've had several D24 240's, one was a real low mile survivor with 60k , cylinder head cracked and was forced to abandon it in Kansas. M46 car, it did indeed return great MPG's ~38 . Was a 1980 model.

Another I had with 220k, and it was totally wore out, low compression. But it ran (kinda). RWC helped out wiht that turd. What a slug with the AW55. Sold it for a song on here and someone bought it with a pipe-crack dream of stuffing a LS into it, and never did. That same person sold the D24 to unsuspecting member here despite me trying to inform them that was a wore out, tired D24. Oh well.

My last was a 760 D24T, and it had low miles ~ 80k. It suffered the same fate as the 1980 264.. Cracked cylinder head. That was my limit for those hideous VW junk parts in a Volvo.

FWIW, a 1983 B23F w/ KJet, M46 can return 32-33MPG on long trips. Not that much difference than that clanky old nasty assed POS VW junk **** turd motor if you ask me.
 
Lando said:
Also you don't need a ton of special tools to work on these. Just a dial indicator to set fuel timing, a 27mm ultra deep well socket for injectors, a special pulley puller and some triple squares, is about all you need, iirc. An injector pop tester can be useful too, but you will probably have to get the injectors rebuilt anyway by a diesel shop anyway.
Click to expand...

Hah you forgot about the crank damper holder tool. Its gotta hold to torque it to 330ftlbs. I bent one then had to brace it up to take the force.
 
John V said:
Based on what you say?
Common knowledge. With the arrival of the 240 series Volvo bought the 5 cylinder version of the VW 4 cylinder n.a. diesel for Nordic market taxis and the 6 cylinder version for export..

You spent much time around them? They why don't you know?
2.0 R5 D 51kW

identification
parts code prefix: ???, ID code: CN
engine configuration & engine displacement
inline five engine (R5/I5); 1,986 cubic centimetres (121.2 cu in); bore x stroke 76.5 by 86.4 millimetres (3.01 in ? 3.40 in), stroke ratio: 0.89:1 - undersquare/long-stroke, 397.1 cc per cylinder; compression ratio: 22.0:1
cylinder block & crankcase
grey cast iron; six main bearings
cylinder head & valvetrain
cast aluminium alloy; two valves per cylinder, single overhead camshaft (SOHC)
aspiration
cast aluminium intake manifold, cast iron exhaust manifold
fuel system
mechanical distributor injection pump, indirect fuel injection into whirl chamber
DIN-rated motive power & torque output
51 kilowatts (69 PS; 68 bhp) @ 4,400 rpm; 140 newton metres (103 lbf?ft) @ 2,800 rpm
application
Audi 100 (10/78-7/89), Volvo 240

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

2.4 R6 D24 51-60kW
Main article: Volkswagen D24 engine

identification
parts code prefix: 075, 076
engine configuration & engine displacement
inline six (R6/I6) diesel (D); 2,383 cubic centimetres (145.4 cu in); bore x stroke: 76.5 by 86.4 millimetres (3.01 in ? 3.40 in), stroke ratio: 0.89:1 - undersquare/long-stroke, 397.1 cc per cylinder, compression ratio: 22.0:1
cylinder block & crankcase
grey cast iron; seven main bearings, die?forged steel crossplane crankshaft, pressed steel oil sump
cylinder head & valvetrain
cast aluminium alloy; two valves per cylinder each with two concentric valve springs, timing belt-driven single overhead camshaft (SOHC) directly acting on shim-adjustable bucket tappet valve lifters
aspiration
cast aluminium alloy intake manifold, two cast iron exhaust manifolds
fuel system
Bosch mechanical distributor injection pump, indirect fuel injection into whirl pre-combustion chamber
EWG-rated motive power & torque output, application, ID codes
55 kilowatts (75 PS; 74 bhp) ? Volkswagen Industrial Motor (761: 01/81-01/84, 751: 09/83-06/93)
DIN-rated motive power & torque outputs, ID codes
51 kilowatts (69 PS; 68 bhp) ? 1S, ACT
55 kilowatts (75 PS; 74 bhp) @ 4,000 rpm; 155 newton metres (114 lbf?ft) @ 2,800 rpm ? CP, DW
60 kilowatts (82 PS; 80 bhp) @ 4,700 rpm; 145 newton metres (107 lbf?ft) @ 2,000 rpm ? Volvo D24

applications
Volkswagen LT (CP: 08/78-11/82, DW: 12/82-07/92, 1S: 08/88-07/92, ACT: 08/92-12/95), Volvo 240, Volvo 740

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

People that care about engine internals have noticed a strong VW "fambly resemblance' in the bore/stroke/ rod lengths and journal diamerters and width between VW motors and the "Whiteblocks"---but aside from that nobody around here has troubled themselves to look at bore c-c and headbolt spacing...

So yeah Kenwood Chair comments are spot on
Click to expand...

Audi 100 equals Audi 5000 in the US.
 
Redwood Chair said:
So a finicky pile of **** then?
Click to expand...
Yeah, they are only about 10X more tolerant of fuel funkiness than any commonrail or electronc DI engine, and cost a lot less to replace.
From the ones I've seen, a bad injector takes out the head or prechambers before the lower end, but most of the engines with worn injectors do have bore or ring wear and 200,000 miles..
It's a high output engine (in T form anyway) , and does best with an MLS head gasket. In 1986 Volvo made that a running change, and VW was not far behind. Expecting a 25 year old fiber head gasket to hold despite only 80,000 miles:lol:
 
I have a few around and I own one (D24, D24T, D24TIC).
The biggest killer is the screw in the crankshaft that holds the "timing" wheel. It loosens during time until the wheel slips and voila. There is no pin to lock the position and it holds on the cone only.
The second killer is overheating of the 6th cylinder. It bakes itself and the rings damage the wall and compression disappears. So the compression check is a nice way to check the engine condition.
The cure is to check the screw with every oil change (5t miles) and use better oil that can lubricate at higher temperature.
And also the vacuum pump that can knock a lot and one day is freezes and kill the cam.
So if the compression is fine, engine runs and you hear no knocking, its a win! Everything else is cheap to raplace.
Anyway I am very happy with it and the consumtion is aroud 34mpg. :-)
 
andysbeta said:
FWIW, a 1983 B23F w/ KJet, M46 can return 32-33MPG on long trips. Not that much difference than that clanky old nasty assed POS VW junk **** turd motor if you ask me.
Click to expand...

Never seen a B23F with k-jet, only with LH2.0.
 
The D24 isn't bad, just requires that the maintenance isn't put off and requires some diesel knowledge. Beyond that it's a simple, reliable, slow, stinking diesel.
I would rather have a gas NA with diesel prices as high as they are and the SLOW acceleration of the diesel.
 
My experience with my 1980 VW Dasher Diesel was that it was almost impossible to start below 40*F. It went through glow plugs as fast as I could replace them. After 3 months of ownership it needed another push to get started and it was 28*F outside. I didn't let it warm up before driving it and it threw a rod ventilating the block. I replaced the diesel with a 1.5L gas engine from an Audi Fox. The Fox had a carb making the swap easier. Later I change the carb to a Weber DVG.

I drove the car long enough to swap the engine two more times, the last time with a 1.7L block and head from a Dodge Omni.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top