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Chris Wiita's 1995 960R

AWESOME work!:)
Have you considered to make som extra sets of suspension parts??There are not to many badass 960 suspension upgraders on the market and you might be able to make some good money on it(have a 960 myself so I might be interested;-))
I certainly could, but I have a suspicion the demand isn't high enough to push the price low enough for anyone to be interested...

How many degrees of rotation do you get out of that fancy flca spherical bearing (in the unconstrained degree of freedom)?

Hmm, don't have a measurement handy, but it's more than enough with my suspension. It looks like there's plenty of additional rotation to work on the stock suspension no problem.

wowzers. That's a heap of metalwork I don't envy. I would have called it quits and got bolt on plastic ones halfway through.

Ya it really burnt me out. But I couldn't even find bolt on ones that could work!

Chris, you are a seriously mad, evil scientist. I love you for it.

Bravo my friend. Bravo.
Thanks man:-D

edit://
I guess this will tide me over until you start working on the amazon.

uuuuuuuuugh
 
35783028_-_2013_Cadillac_CTS-V_Wagon-1277_620x433.jpg


Are you aware this exists now?
 
http://i.i.cbsi.com/cnwk.1d/i/tim2/2013/06/08/35783028_-_2013_Cadillac_CTS-V_Wagon-1277_620x433.jpg[IMG]

Are you aware this exists now?[/QUOTE]

Heavy/no visibility. Also not Swedish!

[QUOTE="Hank Scorpio, post: 4787836, member: 49"]Is it still the t6 with turbo pistons or are you back to a stock 960 motor?
I have a t5 sitting at the shop but thinking of your car back at Carlsen always makes me think hard about the 6.[/QUOTE]
I put a new b6304 in it, decked block. Tight squish clearance, and 11.5:1 cr. Slow as balls though : P

I still have the t6 lump, it's ostensibly destined for my 122. In 10 years. Apparently.

Edit:// I have thought about making molds. I'll revisit it I guess when I'm totally done with them. I'd like to mold the rear too, but I don't know how I'd install Fiberglas parts if I ever needed to use them.
 
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...:omg:... wow man, had no idea what you were up to. Impressive!

On the sheetmetal work (I have this insane belief that I'll someday have fender work to do):
What thickness metal did you use for the front flares?
Is every teensy ass little piece fully welded? That must have been tedious.
Why so many teensy pieces, vs fewer larger pieces, then shaping with a hammer/dolly?
Did you leave the welding wire in place?

Great job!!
 
I certainly could, but I have a suspicion the demand isn't high enough to push the price low enough for anyone to be interested...

Can you give us/sell me the CAD files so we can make our own and not have to re-invent the spindle?

nope! ~~sad trombone~~

Gonna put a sbc in it because effort.

My S90 thanks you again and again for the T6 bits ;-):nod:

Also... considering you are you.... why not quad turbo Toyota 1GZ because baller?
 
...:omg:... wow man, had no idea what you were up to. Impressive!

On the sheetmetal work (I have this insane belief that I'll someday have fender work to do):
What thickness metal did you use for the front flares?
Is every teensy ass little piece fully welded? That must have been tedious.
Why so many teensy pieces, vs fewer larger pieces, then shaping with a hammer/dolly?
Did you leave the welding wire in place?

Great job!!

Thanks man:)

The metal is all 22ga--I ordered it from Onlinemetals--they cut it into strips for pretty cheap. The bits aren't fully welded, probably about 50%? I basically put one stitch on every other joint until it was done, so nothing ever warped. I ground down the beads on the top (for the most part) and then applied body filler on the top. Then I seam sealed all the seams on the backside, so no water intrudes under the filler. I decided to do the strips because it seemed, to be blunt, less artsy. I felt I could make the sides more symmetrical if I had something I could easily copy and mirror, and this way let me do it!

Tentacle--you get those parts installed yet? I don't think I've seen it! I'm just doing a Chebby so I don't have to worry about fine-tuning. My goal is to finally just finish the damn thing so I can work on other projects. I'll be doing an E-Rod LS3, so it'll be totally smog legal, and more importantly, turn-key tuned with several thousand man-hours of engineering into it.
 
I've now used the stuff extensively on a few different projects and, while it's no bolt, it has worked well. As with any adhesive, surface prep is key.

One nice thing about the 116 is that, while it is a 2 part adhesive, you can apply it with a standard caulk gun (unlike many other 3M and Fusor offerings). Just be sure to buy a pack of mix tips.
 
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