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Has Anyone Used this Oil?

VolvoNutt

VolvoNutt

K-jet Newbie
Joined
Jan 30, 2017
Location
Colorado
Has anyone used Schaeffer oil? Several shops in the area swear by them and I?m just curious if anyone has had any experience with their products?

They have a varied and extensive line of lube products, seems their engine oil is pretty high grade, at least from a novice reading up that is. ;-)
 
I heard about them either here or on the brickboard. I haven't tried their products but I did enjoy the information on their site. Looks like very good products.
 
84B23F said:
Secret - If rings are still fit for duty on older engines, change oil/filter every 2-4k; 2k for city, and 4k for longer runs above 30 mph....real mileage between stops.
Click to expand...

Yeah sure...Doesn't matter if every couple of years the API comes out with new harder and harder tests and that the oil in the 90s was better in every respect than the oil in the 80s and that the oil in the OOs is better than in the 90s and that OEMs say change at 6000 or 7000...
NO! What do they know anyway?
What does the fact that even with normal casual service intervals that motors can go 200,000 mile easily (once carbs were dumped) and O2 sensors kept mixtures nice even in cold-start reducing bore wear and oil dilution..FORGET all that>>

We should listen instead to THE OIL COMPANY's AD Departments!

That's where the truth will be found..

And they're on your side, too..To make it easier change you oil they all own chain stores of quick oil change shops where you can do your oil changes twice and even 3 times more frequently that the Engine manufacturers reccomend>>and while waiting you can read their ads and feel reassured you'redoing the right thing and not mindlessly wasting money..

Then you engine will run 600 THOUSAND miles on the bottom end..

Too bad about the things that wear out from cycles, the reciprocating parts...

ANY price is worth it to save those $67 main bearings and 45 buck rod bearings...
 
When I had a small shop the recommendations were to change oil at 3k. 40 years later with all the oil improvements, to many the rec is Still every 3k. Yeah, it's advertising.
I change mine now at 5-6k, on all my B230's.
 
Love that post John V !

I was telling someone the other day the factory recommend oil change on my daily driver is 15,000 miles. He about had a cow! The manufacturer is totally wrong and whatever.
Yeah what would British Motor Works know about engines or that cheap synthetic oil they recommend?
I think based on this guy's expertise I'll change it every 2,500 miles, I mean what do I know, I thought BMW was a German company. . . .

Really want to get one of those stuck in that past guys going? Tell them about semi truck fleets that run oil over 200,000 miles. Simply install an after market bypass filtration system, change that filter at about 15,000 miles and send the oil off for analysis. Run it tell it tests bad.
Do the math on a truck with a million mile service life, that holds 10 gallons of oil, based on the old school 10,000 mile changes. Now don't forget that those fleets know full well if an engine goes down it'll easily cost $40 to $50,000 between replacement, towing and down time. If more frequent oil changes were cheaper in the long run, they'd change it more frequently.
 
84B23F said:
Caveat - "older engines"

Which generally have more blow-by than a new engine.

Yes, oils have gotten better, but more frequent oil changes will insure a long life.

Penny wise, pound foolish...
Click to expand...

Truthiness again and obviously for you that is what counts, and you're right..

http://www.cc.com/video-clips/63ite2/the-colbert-report-the-word---truthiness


the-colbert-report-the-word---truthiness
 
John V said:
Truthiness again and obviously for you that is what counts, and you're right.....
Click to expand...

On two 2.8 V6 GM engines, like after 150k miles, 300k total on each, both are still fit for duty, without oil consumption issue.

One thing is for certain, with frequent oil/filter changes, on older engines, less wear will occur than with OEM interval.
 
84B23F said:
Caveat - "older engines"

Which generally have more blow-by than a new engine.

Yes, oils have gotten better, but more frequent oil changes will insure a long life.

Penny wise, pound foolish...
Click to expand...

Amen brother. My 89 740 went to 336k with Kendall GT-1 10W30, 3-4K OCI. I'd still be driving it had it not saved me in an accident.

Sam
 
sjulier said:
My 89 740 went to 336k with Kendall GT-1 10W30, 3-4K
Click to expand...

The only way oils can be compared, is to do oil analysis tests, which may run upwards to $30.00/test.

We do it all the time on farm diesel equipment (semi-trucks, tractors, combines), every oil change.

Today's gasoline oils are much better, but the topic of handling blow-by gases on older engines is not discussed in the articles I've seen. Most likely, some oils are better than others.

I know from experience, that some oils will slip by the rings-or disappear-quicker than other oils.

I've used "natural gas" oil before, 10w30 Pennzoil Platinum? High Mileage, and it seemed to be better.

March 7, 2014 - Natural gas by the quart: Shell's new oil isn't crude

Royal Dutch Shell, which owns Pennzoil, Quaker State and other brands, is announcing Friday that it has already started selling a premium motor oil that is derived from natural gas and not crude


PENNZOIL PLATINUM

SAE 0W-20
SAE 5W-20
SAE 5W-30
SAE 10W-30
Racing SAE 10W-60

Here is a comparison of Pennzoil Lubrication Oils
 
84B23F said:
The only way oils can be compared, is to do oil analysis tests, which may run upwards to $30.00/test.

We do it all the time on farm diesel equipment (semi-trucks, tractors, combines), every oil change.

Today's gasoline oils are much better, but the topic of handling blow-by gases on older engines is not discussed in the articles I've seen. Most likely, some oils are better than others.

I know from experience, that some oils will slip by the rings-or disappear-quicker than other oils.

I've used "natural gas" oil before, 10w30 Pennzoil Platinum? High Mileage, and it seemed to be better.

March 7, 2014 - Natural gas by the quart: Shell's new oil isn't crude

Royal Dutch Shell, which owns Pennzoil, Quaker State and other brands, is announcing Friday that it has already started selling a premium motor oil that is derived from natural gas and not crude


PENNZOIL PLATINUM

SAE 0W-20
SAE 5W-20
SAE 5W-30
SAE 10W-30
Racing SAE 10W-60

Here is a comparison of Pennzoil Lubrication Oils
Click to expand...

Blow-by is primarily a function of ring side clearance in the top ring groove....and that is a function of the weight of the ring and how hard it rams into the top and bottom of the groove every single time the piston changes direction, and how hard it hits for a given weight depends on how fast it is going M x V..and how many times it has banged into the top and bottom..
In short, cycles..

No2 ring is primarily an oil control ring and No3 is all oil control.. so we see the job falls to No1..The side clearance is important because the only way the ring can do its job or a) making compression and b) controlling blow-by is if the face of the ring is held absolutely flat against the cylinder wall..

If the groove is worn--as a natural function of cycles---then the ring doesn't get held flat against the cylinder wall: it flops kinda like a windshield wiper blade..And a little wedge appears from the face to cylinderwall...and the 70-80 bar of combustion pressure will "see" the face of the ring and push that ring right back into the groove and blow tight on by.

Oil has nothing to do with it..Weight, velocity material, and cycles.

Have you noticed over the decades how top rings have gone skinnier and skinnier and skinnier over the decades as engine speeds have gone up? On some motors from around 5mm down to 1,5mm?

Rod and main bearing clearance and top ring side clearance are three of the most absolutely critical numbers in any motor, but of those three, ring side clearance is the most inflexible.( rod amd main clearance has a MUCH wider range of acceptable clearance.. ..
0015" is fine, but 002 is Ok and depending on usage sometmes even .003" is fine-depending..:oogle:

But there is no way around the hard fact that the ring must be square against the cylinder wall or you will have blow-by.:oops:
 
John V said:
Blow-by is primarily a function of ring side clearance in the top ring groove....and that is a function of the weight of the ring and how hard it rams into the top and bottom of the groove every single time the piston changes direction, and how hard it hits for a given weight depends on how fast it is going M x V..and how many times it has banged into the top and bottom..
In short, cycles..

No2 ring is primarily an oil control ring and No3 is all oil control.. so we see the job falls to No1..The side clearance is important because the only way the ring can do its job or a) making compression and b) controlling blow-by is if the face of the ring is held absolutely flat against the cylinder wall..

If the groove is worn--as a natural function of cycles---then the ring doesn't get held flat against the cylinder wall: it flops kinda like a windshield wiper blade..And a little wedge appears from the face to cylinderwall...and the 70-80 bar of combustion pressure will "see" the face of the ring and push that ring right back into the groove and blow tight on by.

Oil has nothing to do with it..Weight, velocity material, and cycles.

Have you noticed over the decades how top rings have gone skinnier and skinnier and skinnier over the decades as engine speeds have gone up? On some motors from around 5mm down to 1,5mm?

Rod and main bearing clearance and top ring side clearance are three of the most absolutely critical numbers in any motor, but of those three, ring side clearance is the most inflexible.( rod amd main clearance has a MUCH wider range of acceptable clearance.. ..
0015" is fine, but 002 is Ok and depending on usage sometmes even .003" is fine-depending..:oogle:

But there is no way around the hard fact that the ring must be square against the cylinder wall or you will have blow-by.:oops:
Click to expand...

I learned a lot from this explanation. Thanks.

Sam
 
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