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Old 01-07-2017, 12:14 PM   #1
R8ED_R
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Default 13c to 15g swap

I plan on doing a 13c to 15g swap soon. What washers/orings/gaskets/nuts/bolts would I need when doing this?

would parts from the 13c work, if so which of these need to replaced?


thanks.
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Old 01-07-2017, 12:37 PM   #2
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you need absolutely nothing for this swap, all will fit from your old turbo

but you need to do the wastegate mod.
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Old 01-07-2017, 12:55 PM   #3
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Part no. - Quantity
15 - 1
8 - 4
11 - 2

And as mentioned you'll need to modify your wastegate bracket.

Last edited by fortbrick; 01-07-2017 at 01:53 PM.. Reason: Can't read!
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Old 01-07-2017, 01:12 PM   #4
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Part number 8 and 11 are the same thing.
You only need 13 if you swap the oil line at the block. And in order to replace that you also need a new oring for the oil filter relocation kit as you have to remove that to remove the oil.feed line.

Either way get new exhaust nuts for the turbo to manifold and turbo to downpipe also.

Hardest part is clocking the turbo and making the bracket. Otherwise the 15g is bolt on great upgrade.
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Old 01-07-2017, 01:37 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by thelostartof View Post
Part number 8 and 11 are the same thing.
You only need 13 if you swap the oil line at the block. And in order to replace that you also need a new oring for the oil filter relocation kit as you have to remove that to remove the oil.feed line.

Either way get new exhaust nuts for the turbo to manifold and turbo to downpipe also.

Hardest part is clocking the turbo and making the bracket. Otherwise the 15g is bolt on great upgrade.
Sorry but; hell no , if the old oil line doesnt fit on the 15G just cut the oil line somewhere where it makes sense and replace the cuted piece with some 10mm oil/fuel hose.

i dont really know if it fits without cutting because i cutted all lines , i hate this stiff **** and replaced with hose.

dont remove the oil filter / waterchanger its a mess for nothing, if you do it, you dont need a new oring also...

for the bracket, take one of these and the mod is done in 2 min, if you cant imagine how i mean it ill take a picture of mine.




Last edited by stonie; 01-07-2017 at 01:57 PM..
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Old 01-07-2017, 01:53 PM   #6
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Oops. I read that as 12b, not 13c. Edited post above to clarify.
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Old 01-07-2017, 08:44 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by stonie View Post
Sorry but; hell no , if the old oil line doesnt fit on the 15G just cut the oil line somewhere where it makes sense and replace the cuted piece with some 10mm oil/fuel hose.

i dont really know if it fits without cutting because i cutted all lines , i hate this stiff **** and replaced with hose.

dont remove the oil filter / waterchanger its a mess for nothing, if you do it, you dont need a new oring also...

for the bracket, take one of these and the mod is done in 2 min, if you cant imagine how i mean it ill take a picture of mine.



Make sure the oil line is tight if you do this....ive had one slip off and....Volvo al Fuego
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Old 01-07-2017, 09:06 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wilford Brimley View Post
Make sure the oil line is tight if you do this....ive had one slip off and....Volvo al Fuego


damn dude, no joking?

ill knurl the ends !
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Old 01-07-2017, 09:42 PM   #9
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The oil lines are solid for a reason - if you're going to **** them up, better to switch to braided SS line. Soft hose is not intended for the system oil pressure & proximity to exhaust/hotside temps.. Unless you're an idiot there is no reason the stock oil feed line cannot be massaged to fit. If you've got the CHRA properly clocked there should be no reason. The CHRA's are the same for all TDO4HL.
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Old 01-07-2017, 11:02 PM   #10
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It should be similar to my 13c to 19t swap, check out my uber lengthy journey in installing it.
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Old 01-07-2017, 11:52 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by lookforjoe View Post
The oil lines are solid for a reason - if you're going to **** them up, better to switch to braided SS line. Soft hose is not intended for the system oil pressure & proximity to exhaust/hotside temps.. Unless you're an idiot there is no reason the stock oil feed line cannot be massaged to fit. If you've got the CHRA properly clocked there should be no reason. The CHRA's are the same for all TDO4HL.
Agree, don't be cheap. It ain't worth it
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Old 01-09-2017, 04:54 AM   #12
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where is the problem? oil / Fuel Hose are pressure and heat resistant, there is also oem a Water hose.

i Agree with the possibility that the Pressure can slip of the hose from the stiff line
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Old 01-09-2017, 08:50 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by stonie View Post


where is the problem? oil / Fuel Hose are pressure and heat resistant, there is also oem a Water hose.

i Agree with the possibility that the Pressure can slip of the hose from the stiff line
It is a problem. To suggest that you can cut & splice high pressure lines like this is not helpful, especially to anyone who may not understand the ramifications of such an action. Not all fuel/oil hose is created for the pressure rating required, or the heat/oil resistance. Much fuel hose is NOT rated for oil. For this pressure, slip on joints and regular hose clamps are a bad idea. You will note that even the low pressure coolant lines off the turbo have a 'bulb' at the end to help prevent the hose coming off the tubing.
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Old 01-09-2017, 03:14 PM   #14
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Watching
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Old 01-10-2017, 02:54 AM   #15
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Quote:
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(Where) is the problem?
Huge problem! It is an extreme fire hazard.

Haven't heard back from OP here, so who knows if he is still even watching, but I will play: I suggest you replace all 6 crush washers and the 1 paper gasket; it's that simple.

Number 8 (x4)
Number 11 (x2)
Number 15 (x1)

And use a 13c actuator or from a T3 and a custom bracket. FWD actuator is too soft and is crap for relocation too.
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Old 01-12-2017, 02:17 AM   #16
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hey! sorry was out of town.

i am getting a 15g that is reclocked and ready to mount.

going to order what you guys listed! im hoping the original coolant and oil pipes work with the 15g and dont need replacement.

otherwise someone recommended me this, ideas on this?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Kinugawa-FOR...5YK4qb&vxp=mtr

and this flange?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Turbo-Outlet...RYPh2Y&vxp=mtr

thanks for the help i appreciate it!

Last edited by R8ED_R; 01-12-2017 at 02:36 AM..
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Old 01-12-2017, 12:30 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by R8ED_R View Post
hey! sorry was out of town.

i am getting a 15g that is reclocked and ready to mount.

going to order what you guys listed! im hoping the original coolant and oil pipes work with the 15g and dont need replacement.

otherwise someone recommended me this, ideas on this?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Kinugawa-FOR...5YK4qb&vxp=mtr

and this flange?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Turbo-Outlet...RYPh2Y&vxp=mtr

thanks for the help i appreciate it!
What is the flange for?
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Old 01-13-2017, 12:12 AM   #18
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downpipe

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What is the flange for?
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Old 01-13-2017, 08:25 AM   #19
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You dont realy need anything exept the turbo and sealings. Stock Water and oil conections are exactly the same at 13c and 15G, don't cut anything!
But if the turbo is unlocked and turned there still is a problem tough, the bracket for wastegate gauge wont fit.
It needs to be modified, not a big job but still.
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Old 01-13-2017, 03:52 PM   #20
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When I cut the factory metal oil feed lines to make em fit say custom dealio like tdo4 lines for a b21ft, I'd just weld em back together with oxy and acetylene gas! Other thing some of those tdo4 say 16t or 19t the water lines are not in the same bolt in hole in the center section of the turbo, that might be problem, but you can plug the wong hole with short bolt you cut short and just pop out the little freeze plug where correct hole is already and just tap it with correct tap. The best wastegate bracket I've found is one of the engine hangers from a d24, works perfect, yeah I welded on that also.
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Old 01-13-2017, 03:58 PM   #21
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My oil & coolant lines swapped with some persuasion, no cutting required. New banjo washers was it.
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Old 01-14-2017, 02:13 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by sbabbs View Post
When I cut the factory metal oil feed lines to make em fit say custom dealio like tdo4 lines for a b21ft, I'd just weld em back together with oxy and acetylene gas! Other thing some of those tdo4 say 16t or 19t the water lines are not in the same bolt in hole in the center section of the turbo, that might be problem, but you can plug the wong hole with short bolt you cut short and just pop out the little freeze plug where correct hole is already and just tap it with correct tap. The best wastegate bracket I've found is one of the engine hangers from a d24, works perfect, yeah I welded on that also.
Well I have had 15G,-16T turbos in my 745 and now a TD04HL-22T and still using all stock oil/water/connections with banjos from the -13c turbo, if you change anything it will be for your eyes only.
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Old 01-14-2017, 02:30 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by sbabbs View Post
When I cut the factory metal oil feed lines to make em fit say custom dealio like tdo4 lines for a b21ft, I'd just weld em back together with oxy and acetylene gas! Other thing some of those tdo4 say 16t or 19t the water lines are not in the same bolt in hole in the center section of the turbo, that might be problem, but you can plug the wong hole with short bolt you cut short and just pop out the little freeze plug where correct hole is already and just tap it with correct tap. The best wastegate bracket I've found is one of the engine hangers from a d24, works perfect, yeah I welded on that also.
ALL TD-04 water and oil lines are in the same position
I went looking at bigger turbos for my 740 and looked at 5 or 6 up to a 19T, and they were all identical.
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Old 01-15-2017, 04:42 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sbabbs View Post
When I cut the factory metal oil feed lines to make em fit say custom dealio like tdo4 lines for a b21ft, I'd just weld em back together with oxy and acetylene gas! Other thing some of those tdo4 say 16t or 19t the water lines are not in the same bolt in hole in the center section of the turbo, that might be problem, but you can plug the wong hole with short bolt you cut short and just pop out the little freeze plug where correct hole is already and just tap it with correct tap. The best wastegate bracket I've found is one of the engine hangers from a d24, works perfect, yeah I welded on that also.
That's exactly what I have done in the past. I sleeve the junction & either silver solder or braise the lines. The banjo unions are braised anyway, so it's no different in terms of permanence if done properly. I made these to fit a 20g



Braised AN fittings to stock pipes to add WG, etc....

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Old 01-15-2017, 05:40 PM   #25
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ALL TD-04 water and oil lines are in the same position
I went looking at bigger turbos for my 740 and looked at 5 or 6 up to a 19T, and they were all identical.
Yeah but there are 4 holes for two water lines sometimes the other holes are drilled and tapped. Sorry if you've never seen that, but look at the center section of your tdo4 depends on what car it was for which holes you have that are ready for insertion or not.



Pic for proof of what I am talking about so people will see I am not full of BS..

Last edited by sbabbs; 01-15-2017 at 05:57 PM..
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