Pusher Fan recommendations for 240s

Hey there folks,

I was wondering if anyone had any recommendations for an electric pusher fan to stick on infront of my radiator? It's getting hot out here and my daily 240 seems to be heating up when idling. It's fine when it's running though so that makes me think it's an airflow thing.

I just recently installed a new water pump, thermostat, aluminum radiator (I think it was a Nissan if that helps. It has a socket for an electric fan temp sensor.) But it's still heating up on hot days like today. It never hits the Red though, so that's okay.

Anyway, Pusher fan recommendations? That sound like a good move?

Spal spal spal spal. Spend good money on a good fan and get a good relay and a good controller (switch).

If you’re ballin on a budget you could use the 91+ 240 pusher fan.

Do you have ac? Is it on when the car gets toasty?

Haha, I'll look into the 91+ Pusher fan, is that a stock thing?

I have AC but I rarely ever use it, and it's never on when the car starts heating up.

I did decide to invest in a tropical heavy duty clutch for my car's fan though, so when that gets in I'll see if that makes a dent in the problem. If it doesn't I'll put in a pusher fan. And if that doesn't work maybe an electric water pump or something. What's odd is I didn't notice this last summer, but since then I replaced the clutch fan. Maybe I just got a bum clutch.

Even with a brand new good quality fan clutch, mine heats up at idle with the ac on (and a pusher fan) on 100 degree days. The pusher fan moves quite a bit of air but it’s drasticlaly flawed from the factory. Air goes around the condenser rather than through it due to the 1/2” gap. And even if it makes it through the condenser it definitely isn’t making it through the rad very well.

I used weather stripping around the circumference of my stock pusher and do it moved air THROUGH the condenser. Then weather stripping to close any gaps between the condenser and rad. Seemed to help a bit.

For sure the 93 2 series has a pusher.... perhaps earlier back to 91 as well. If you have fitted an E-fan, then perhaps a moot point.

You might have a separate issue with your cooling. .mine stays solid at 190 degrees no matter how hot it is,or how hard I drive..105 dgrees plus where I live. Even trucking up long hills. Maybe you need a better fan clutch?

speedn_j said:

You might have a separate issue with your cooling. .mine stays solid at 190 degrees no matter how hot it is,or how hard I drive..105 dgrees plus where I live. Even trucking up long hills. Maybe you need a better fan clutch?

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That's what I'm thinking actually, I bought a new clutch fan later last year but I'm thinking it wasn't showing itself as an issue until now because tempretures outside were lower.

It depends how hot it is outside and the condition of the rest of your cooling system. 100% of my cooling system is new and I’d still get near 200F idling in 100F weather, which is completely fine by the way.

Make sure your fan clutch is brand name like the aisin. I spent $65 on a new aisin clutch and couldn’t be happier with it.

Make sure your shroud is in place too.

Thanks PromiseRing,
I just replaced most of my cooling system, Radiator, Thermostat, Water Pump. But it's possible I accidentally cheaped out on a clutch fan. I'm hoping the new heavy duty one I ordered from IPD will fix that though. So what would 200F look like on the temp gauge? Near to the Red?

No no no... the thermostats for these cars were something like 82/87/90 degrees C. That 90C would translate to 194F. The temp gauges in these cars are notoriously meh... and I'm not sure what the built in sweep is really like but ultimately I wouldn't think it would go up to red.

RealHumanBean said:

Thanks PromiseRing,
I just replaced most of my cooling system, Radiator, Thermostat, Water Pump. But it's possible I accidentally cheaped out on a clutch fan. I'm hoping the new heavy duty one I ordered from IPD will fix that though. So what would 200F look like on the temp gauge? Near to the Red?

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There?s no way of telling what it?ll look like on the gauge, especially if you haven?t bypassed the faker board. 180-210 probably looks the exact same. You?ll want to bypass it and then make the car idle at 180F. After that you?ll have a good idea of where proper operating temp is. You?ll know that anything above that tick is above 180F. If it climbs too much you?ll know it?s overheating.

EivlEvo said:

No no no... the thermostats for these cars were something like 82/87/90 degrees C. That 90C would translate to 194F. The temp gauges in these cars are notoriously meh... and I'm not sure what the built in sweep is really like but ultimately I wouldn't think it would go up to red.

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It varies per every 240. None of them I?ve owned have been consistent, even with new sending units and swapping around gauges. The variable resistance per wire and cluster is enough to make a difference IME. I have had 2 of the same year 240s with bypassed boards both running at 180F, one gauge read 3/4 up, the other read around 1/3. I was freaked out by the 3/4 one for like a month thinking it was overheating. Once I used an IR thermometer I was A-Okay and realized all was well.

I opt for 180F-189F stats. I personally don?t see the point in running a warmer thermostat. Some people will tell you that you won?t have good heat with a 180F okay if you can tell the difference between 180 and 195 vent temps then sure...but you can?t. Both will work. Sure 195 is going to feel hotter but the heat will still be fine with the 180F. Might take a bit longer to warm up which isn?t good but it is also negligible.

I have used the 82C thermostat for many years now in all my bricks. Enough heat for the winter and better in the high temp of the summer with a/c on. Now in the 93 with temp faker board removed the gauge runs just below halfway with a/c on.

The temperature sensor can make a difference where the needle sits. I think mine has an 82c in it and it sits at a hair over halfway with just a 740 efan.

RealHumanBean said:

I did decide to invest in a tropical heavy duty.

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Man, are those noisy! The red block on our 765Turbo is relatively new, so I never did a real thorough block/cooling system flush.

I'm curious how to bypass the boards so many mentioned.

I'll have to look into this faker board thing, any good threads to look through for this?

My Volvo's been behaving pretty well lately. I had the timing professionally set (The distributor wasn't installed perfectly so the marks weren't correct for timing.) Hopefully this helps with the possible overheated. I'll post another update once the new clutch fan comes in.

Right now it only seems to get hot when idling in a drive through. Anyone else notice that? My solution has been to just turn it off and go into the restaurant. otherwise during normal operations the temp seems to hover just below the middle mark. So I'll call that good. Just hope I don't get caught in a traffic jam on a hundred degree day.

From what I've learned dealing with cooling systems on other cars, running good temps over 35mph or so pretty much indicates the system is fine, but with slower/stopped conditions, the fan is not moving enough air. %aving on cooling components is not advised when Aisen clutches are quality & rea$onable in these days of Chinese junk (not a boat).

I also cleaned and polished the fan blades to enhance their aerodynamic efficiency! (yeah, I used that term on a Brick site)

whalepirot said:

Man, are those noisy! The red block on our 765Turbo is relatively new, so I never did a real thorough block/cooling system flush.

I'm curious how to bypass the boards so many mentioned.

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I'm curious now too, It sounds sort of like Volvo did something similar to Ford where the gauge just reads a vague value that sort of indicates what's going on, but isn't accurate.

My 240 always used to run near the red, and it doesn't anymore, and I don't remember anymore what stopped it.

If I recall, I think it was a lean condition issue from vacuum leaks and a marginal AMM, not a cooling issue. Actually, my fan clutch was straight up locked and it didn't help.

FWIW, I now have a Flex-A-Lite 114 puller and the mech fan removed entirely, no fan shroud. No problems, even when it cracks 110 here. Well, I mean, I have problems, but the car doesn't. Not sure how it would handle things if the A/C worked. It moves quite a bit of air for a 14", I think the 16" models will fit on a 240 rad too. It can have the blades reversed and then wired as a pusher.

Randomletters said:

My 240 always used to run near the red, and it doesn't anymore, and I don't remember anymore what stopped it.

If I recall, I think it was a lean condition issue from vacuum leaks and a marginal AMM, not a cooling issue. Actually, my fan clutch was straight up locked and it didn't help.

FWIW, I now have a Flex-A-Lite 114 puller and the mech fan removed entirely, no fan shroud. No problems, even when it cracks 110 here. Well, I mean, I have problems, but the car doesn't. Not sure how it would handle things if the A/C worked. It moves quite a bit of air for a 14", I think the 16" models will fit on a 240 rad too. It can have the blades reversed and then wired as a pusher.

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You turbo or NA?