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Picked up a 16vT 960...

The only car we have that's close to it would be a 91 940 se it's essentially the same minus the engine.
How do you mean that 940SE and 960 are the same car?

Why's the SE special anyways, minus those thicker bars and bumpers?
I mean, IRS is nice and all, but wagons are just, wagons! :nod:
I second that...already miss my 965, even though I still drive it...
 
well the 940 se sedans were basically 960's with a 4cyl a garret turbo, IRS, 960 interior and dash.
 
Nice car. I had both sedan and wagon with 16vt, I happen to live in one of those countries with bitchy taxes.

Check if it has an updated oil pump pulley, if that fails (which they do) you'll end up with bent valves like I did.
 
Changed sparkplugs, oil filter and oil. Seems better and smoother, but lifters are still clicking. Will have to do something about that...


What's the difference between "old" and updated bulley, so I can check? Also, did the "updated" pump pulley come stock from certain MY, or only as a replacement?
 
You can try some marvel mystery oil (aka kerosene, effectively) in the crankcase... about a 1/2 liter or so. Then do an italian tune-up - lots of revs, get it really hot, for a long period of time (couple hours). Mountain passes would be good... Hopefully that will un-gum the lifters for you.

I'd definitely change the belt, tensioner, pulleys, and the oil pump bolt before doing anything else though. That's definitely the Achilles heel of that engine.

Sweet engine... nice car... Should make an awesome DD
 
I think it would have been better if you have done some engine flush before changing the oil, maybe Liqui Moly treatment, and Liqui Moly lifters stabilizer, but pulling the oil pan and cleaning the gunk mechanicly would be nice too.
 
new vs old
20120517215331.jpg

old vs new
20120517215346.jpg
 
I think it was never fitted, only replacement.
the might have changed it automatically with a belt replacement
 
As shown, new style has bigger core, that is where they break.

Lifters could take some time when all oil was out, took mine about an hour of running.
 
You can try some marvel mystery oil (aka kerosene, effectively) in the crankcase... about a 1/2 liter or so. Then do an italian tune-up - lots of revs, get it really hot, for a long period of time (couple hours). Mountain passes would be good... Hopefully that will un-gum the lifters for you.
Actually, that's what I did...long live FIAT/Alfa experiences!
But didn't do much for the lifters...the do click less, but I'll have to take them off, clean them and refill them as soon as I manage to find the belt, tensioner, water pump and oil pump pulley...
I'd definitely change the belt, tensioner, pulleys, and the oil pump bolt before doing anything else though. That's definitely the Achilles heel of that engine.
Yup, would'n want to kill it before it gets cool and fast.

I think it would have been better if you have done some engine flush before changing the oil, maybe Liqui Moly treatment, and Liqui Moly lifters stabilizer, but pulling the oil pan and cleaning the gunk mechanicly would be nice too.
Did the oil flush "Italian style", but still will have to take valve cover off... As for the pan, I don't imagine there would be much gunk, since the oil was very water-ish...but it wouldn't hurt to do it anyway.
new vs old [/IMG]

I think it was never fitted, only replacement.
the might have changed it automatically with a belt replacement

As shown, new style has bigger core, that is where they break.
Thanks both of you!


BTW...got it insured, registered, new plates on my name...the diesel 960 is parked and I'm driving this car now. Feels nice, but when the boost comes on, nothing special really happens. Maybe it's because I've gotten used to diesel's 1.8bar kick, but I think this car should run better, I guess vacuum lines and boost hoses are next, ASAP.
 
I haven't had an opportunity do drive/be driven in a stock and well maintained B204FT car, so I don't know what should I expect from this.

my brother has a 780 T16V, it had a broken boost control module/exhaust temperature sensor. When i drove this car it felt like maybe 150hp. (actuator controled boost only)
If i remember correctly those exh.temp sensors are like unobtanium and if you manage to score one they will be expensive.
 
my brother has a 780 T16V, it had a broken boost control module/exhaust temperature sensor. When i drove this car it felt like maybe 150hp. (actuator controled boost only)
If i remember correctly those exh.temp sensors are like unobtanium and if you manage to score one they will be expensive.

I still have a working one.

I once tried to contact Pentronic Sweden for parts regarding the EGT, but never got an answer.
 
Diesel 1.8 bar KICK hahhahahaha :lol: :lol: :lol: :-P
Now realized it was you, pal. It's not my fault you didn't know how to drive my car. :p
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mMOQWwP-PNE

This is my previous 16VT, completely stock, well maintained, should give you some kind of reference on what to expect.
Thanks, this helps. My car does drive somewhat similar, but...don't know, eh. Any chance you would have some video showing speedometer, 0-100kmh run, or so? All I could dig up on Youtube are built B230's with 234 heads and some big turbos, not much to compare...
my brother has a 780 T16V, it had a broken boost control module/exhaust temperature sensor. When i drove this car it felt like maybe 150hp. (actuator controled boost only)
If i remember correctly those exh.temp sensors are like unobtanium and if you manage to score one they will be expensive.
Might be the case, I did find that EGT sensor's location thanks to Turbosteen's thread, I will look into it.

Thermostat was stuck open and now one is is made from unobtainium here. Only 911 Carerra cabrio 3.6's would fit, but you can imagine how easy is that to find, so I got a Ford unit and mounted it reverse (up side down, since it wouldn't clear the head if mounted normally), in propper TB fashion. Works flawless and I guess now I have some 5l/100km better mileage, since previously it would't warp up enough. Ever. However, few days ago i drove hard the hell out of it, and oil pressure lamp went on again...I guess 10W40 is too thin for it, I'll go with 15W40 next time, in a few hundred km's.

Btw...electrics still going crazy. Speedo still doesn't work, though it does sometimes, for a kilometer or two, before it dies again fully random, but kilometer-gauges never do. Dash illumination was going on-and-off at will till yesterday, then all the lights went out when I started the car - instrument cluster, HVAC and ashtray illumination, that is. Looked into it in the fusebox, fuse #10 was blown. Changed it, started the car, turned on headlights, no illumination still...took a look - fuse is blown again.
Headlights switch (which switches dash illumination as well and has that rheostat thing besides) issue or that box that is bolted to the back of the instrument cluster, upper left corner?

Anyone?
 
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