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Looking For MS Help Specific to Our Cars

tlegasse

Member
Joined
Jul 5, 2015
Location
PNW Washington
Hello All,
I'm looking for a ms2 V3.0 with MS Extra 3.4.2 msq that at least gets me on the right track...
I'm doing wasted spark / batch fuel and have the following parts installed and functional (as far as I know):

1990 B230F (used to have lh3.1)
ls2 coils
lh2.4/3.1 VR CPS w/ 60-2 flywheel
lh3.1 throttle sensor
Stock coolant temp sensor
Onboard MAP sensor
GM IAT
Volvo 850 orange 315cc injectors
lsu4.9 w/ a 14point7 Spartan 2

Right now the car won't idle even with the timing correct and the 60-2 tooth flywheel set to have the first tooth at 87 degrees btdc, so any help would be appreciated. And yes, I've also had a post up on msextra, just trying to get a ballpark msq here.
Thanks!
 
adjust the req fuel number or the bottom corner of the VE table. You didn't say if you're using an idle valve, if not, you probably need to adjust the throttle stop so the car will idle ~ 1000rpms in neutral once hot.

If the car already runs, you're most of the way there.
 
Linuxman's MS tuning services are the way to go here. Unless you are hell-bent on 100% diy. He can either help you get the car rolling or work through the full tuning proccess at a more than reasonable rate. He has got me going on 2 cars via email.
 
Does it start and run with some throttle? If so, what's it doing when it fails to idle? What does the O2 sensor say?

Idle speed control was one of those things that I fought with the most on my MS setups - both MS1 and MS3X). Just hard to get it right from my experience. The duty cycle to air flow curve on the Bosch two-wire idle control valves always seemed wonky. That and closed loop boost control, oy.
 
adjust the req fuel number or the bottom corner of the VE table. You didn't say if you're using an idle valve, if not, you probably need to adjust the throttle stop so the car will idle ~ 1000rpms in neutral once hot.

If the car already runs, you're most of the way there.

I've monkeyed with the ve table a little bit where it's indicating the engine is at around idle, and I don't quite know if there's any difference. Right now the throttle plate is almost maxed out at 20%, so I don't think I can / should go much higher. Based on how much the car struggles to do anything, I feel like this is a configuration issue.... I could be wrong though. I attached my log in the other post.
 
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Few things:
- Was the engine running well before converting to MS, or was it a unknown condition swap, or a fresh rebuild (never run)?
- Your .msq has "Fixed timing" still enabled, go back to "use table" if you're done checking timing with a light.
- Try turning off Ignition--> Noise filtering (it's a bandaid, and your configured values are way too close to 60-2 tooth timing to be reliable).
- Are you using the MS2 3.0pcb VR circuit? Have you adjusted the 2 pots per instructions?
- Do you have a working/wired Idle Air valve?
- From the log, your MAP value is awful - ~96kPa while cranking. Where is the hose connected?


If turning off Noise filtering doesn't make a big difference, can you post a "Tooth Logger" file from cranking/trying to run? (See TunerStudio doc for pics.)

Edit: I checked, and the values used in the Noise Filter Curve table are actually half the tooth period. For instance, a 60-2 wheel running at 1000rpm has a full tooth period of 1.0ms, or a half-period of 500us. Your filter table entry for 1000rpm is 835us. This means that, for 1000rpm and below, any half-period shorter than 835us is treated as noise and ignored. If a good tooth is ignored, you'll get a "Lost Sync" and the engine will falter until it finds sync again at a lower rpm. You can watch the "Lost Sync Count" go up in your log.

Alternately, 835us with a 50% duty cycle is 599rpm, which is pretty close to the max speed seen in your logs before the engine falters.
 
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