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t5 question

Lol-vo

New member
Joined
Feb 20, 2012
Location
Marquette, MI
Someday I would eventually like to get rid of the ol AW71 and put in a 5spd of some sort. I have a friend selling a Ford t-5 transmission out of an 88 Mustang GT. I know some folks swap T5's into the 240, but is there certain years/manufacturers (I think GM used the t5 too?) that work far easier than others? I think I read somewhere too that you can change the tailshafts out for other styles that work better?

I just wanted to know because I could pick it up for pretty cheap, and was seeing if the buying it was worth it.
 
Adapters for Ford and GM T5s are available. JohnV sells adapted bellhousings for GM transmissions, everybody else does Ford adapter plates.
 
are there any good threads that cover installation of a t5? I presume you have to get custom mounts, or can it use the existing Volvo mounts?
 
are there any good threads that cover installation of a t5? I presume you have to get custom mounts, or can it use the existing Volvo mounts?

Later model 240s can very easily adapt the stock transmission crossmember. You'll need a custom driveshaft, or a one piece Mustang driveshaft using the Yoshifab adapter.


Don't spend any money with V Performance/John Parker. You'll be very sorry.

If you want, pick through my project thread (link in my sig). Mine involves some headaches mounting the transmission in a early chassis, but the flywheel/clutch/driveshaft stuff is all still valid.
 
Aaron reed's site above is a great reference for doing the swap. You can also bing or google search the swap for more threads on it. I did this with a WC T5 from a '92 Stang.

You'll have to make the trans mount bracket for your stock crossmember. I had someone weld 1/4" plate steel to my crossmember, as noted on Aaron's site, and used a stock Mustang GT rubber T5 mount.

When clutch time comes, I would contact Knox Motorports and have them put a kit together for you, based on what you'll use the car for (pilot bearing, disc, pressure plate, and throw-out bearing). You'll get all the parts you need for the Frankenstein clutch in one shot.

You'll also need a modified driveshaft. I went with a one-piece from a Mustang GT (same year as the trans in my case). You can usually find them on craigslist locally. Get the rear axle adapter from Yoshifab that makes up the distance there, as the Mustang driveshaft is a bit shorter than the stock 240 one. Or, you can keep the two piece shaft that's on your 240, and have the front yoke modified by a driveshaft shop so yours bolts right up to the T5. There are some measurements that need to be done in either case to make sure the shaft is the proper length.
 
Cool, thanks for the tips guys. It needs a re-build, and I need a winter project, and it's dirty cheap, so I'm gonna take it. I guess the snycros need to be replaced, but I'm just gonna open er up and give it a shot.
 
Cool, thanks for the tips guys. It needs a re-build, and I need a winter project, and it's dirty cheap, so I'm gonna take it. I guess the snycros need to be replaced, but I'm just gonna open er up and give it a shot.

http://www.5speeds.com/


^ I can recommend these guys ^

I bought a syncro/bearing kit for my T5 and the book, the book has tips and info the tremec pdf does not have, it also has some history on manual transmissions that is a good read.
 
Later model 240s can very easily adapt the stock transmission crossmember. You'll need a custom driveshaft, or a one piece Mustang driveshaft using the Yoshifab adapter.

Or you can use the Mustang drive shaft and Dana part# 138, its a jeep yoke that takes a 1330 U-joint, but mates perfectly with the Volvo rear-end. With the long yoke on the trans side, you will have no issues. It cost me about $25 for the jeep yoke and $12 for a 1330 u-joint. My local driveshaft shop figured this out for me (350/t5 swap, using a Saginaw-1330 u-joint for a chevy yoke on a mustang driveshaft, and Dana part# 138 to hook-up to the 1031).


Don't spend any money with V Performance/John Parker. You'll be very sorry.

+1
 
Or you can use the Mustang drive shaft and Dana part# 138, its a jeep yoke that takes a 1330 U-joint, but mates perfectly with the Volvo rear-end. With the long yoke on the trans side, you will have no issues. It cost me about $25 for the jeep yoke and $12 for a 1330 u-joint. My local driveshaft shop figured this out for me (350/t5 swap, using a Saginaw-1330 u-joint for a chevy yoke on a mustang driveshaft, and Dana part# 138 to hook-up to the 1031).




+1

Hm, interesting. I live in the land of domestics up here so none of those parts should be hard to get my hands on. Might go that route.
 
The mid 80s ford t5 from a V8 mustang fits perfectly in a 240 and the shifter is in the center of the hole. The V6 mustang box works too with an input shaft swap and front bearing cover trim/swap. I've used one from a '94 mustang and an '01 or '02 mustang. tailshaft housing is same as the V8 one from the mid 80s that the adapter plate was original designed for. so the V6 trans ends up dimensionally the same.


When clutch time comes, I would contact Knox Motorports and have them put a kit together for you...
I would not do that. Lawrence is a good guy but there's a bit of turmoil surround his personal life and his business and it might not be a good time to order parts with him. As for advice, absolutely, he knows his stuff.

I've had good luck using a Clutchnet pressure plate and clutchnet disc. There are a number of discs you can order in either the 215mm/8.5" or 228mm/9" size that will work with a stock pressure plate too. Or you can use a stock organic ford disc and an aftermarket stronger pressure plate. We did that in our lemons car to keep costs down (complete 4cyl Mustang clutch kit was only $60 and we used the disc with a used spec or clutchnet PP, holds 14psi from a b230f/60trim no problem).

Here's my parts list and prices. You can do it cheaper. I did it a LOT cheaper in our lemons car. Less than half, but I had to find deals and cut corners.

http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?p=3365636&#post3365636

Scroll up to see my ghetto trans mount solution that was cheap, easy, and required no welding/fabrication. Has worked fine on my autocross car that way.
 
The mid 80s ford t5 from a V8 mustang fits perfectly in a 240 and the shifter is in the center of the hole. The V6 mustang box works too with an input shaft swap and front bearing cover trim/swap. I've used one from a '94 mustang and an '01 or '02 mustang. tailshaft housing is same as the V8 one from the mid 80s that the adapter plate was original designed for. so the V6 trans ends up dimensionally the same.



I would not do that. Lawrence is a good guy but there's a bit of turmoil surround his personal life and his business and it might not be a good time to order parts with him. As for advice, absolutely, he knows his stuff.

I've had good luck using a Clutchnet pressure plate and clutchnet disc. There are a number of discs you can order in either the 215mm/8.5" or 228mm/9" size that will work with a stock pressure plate too. Or you can use a stock organic ford disc and an aftermarket stronger pressure plate. We did that in our lemons car to keep costs down (complete 4cyl Mustang clutch kit was only $60 and we used the disc with a used spec or clutchnet PP, holds 14psi from a b230f/60trim no problem).

Here's my parts list and prices. You can do it cheaper. I did it a LOT cheaper in our lemons car. Less than half, but I had to find deals and cut corners.

http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?p=3365636&#post3365636

Scroll up to see my ghetto trans mount solution that was cheap, easy, and required no welding/fabrication. Has worked fine on my autocross car that way.

I REALLY dig your cross member solution. As far as the driveshaft, you obviously had yours cut. What is the best DS to use? The m47 shaft like you have, or should I use the Mustang DS?
 
I REALLY dig your cross member solution. As far as the driveshaft, you obviously had yours cut. What is the best DS to use? The m47 shaft like you have, or should I use the Mustang DS?

My other question is kinda what I'm gonna do for the pedals? I know on here you occasionally come across someone selling a manual swap kit, I could buy the pedals from them. However, I'm not sure if the clutch on that car is going to be hydraulic or cable actuated?
 
All the T5 swaps I've seen, use the clutch cable and volvo fork. You could use a hydro setup, it's been done, just requires more DIY fabbing.

So what bellhousing adapter do you guys recommend, if not the v-performance one? The RSI/Deeworks kit?
 
It's not that we don't recommend the V-Performance kit, you'll just never see it. The guy is notorious for taking money and NEVER (literally) delivering parts.

I would post in the wanted section, maybe reach out to Knox motorsports (despite the now publicly declared personal issues with the owner) to see if they know of where to get one. Avalanche used to be a manufacturer of specific parts, this kit being one, but they don't make them anymore. It's possible someone may have a kit they never used.
 
Ben Kaplan (kaplhenke) sells an adapter, as does RSI. RSI imports Roger-Dee's from canadia. Roger is a great guy, as is Ben, and I wouldnt hesitate to spend money with either of them.
 
All the T5 swaps I've seen, use the clutch cable and volvo fork. You could use a hydro setup, it's been done, just requires more DIY fabbing.

So what bellhousing adapter do you guys recommend, if not the v-performance one? The RSI/Deeworks kit?

I'm a fan of cable for ease of maintence and installation. Cool.
 
I plan on using a clutch pedal assembly, cable, TOB and fork from an SN95 Mustang when I do my T5 swap. I'll be using the Kaplhenke/Triangles Unltd. adapter, as I've seen a couple in person and love the quality. Trans is from an '88 Highway Patrol 5.0 coupe, as is the driveshaft unless I can find the proper-length aluminum shaft from an AWD Aerostar. All Mustang shafts are the same length from '79-'04 [45.5" yoke-to-yoke], excluding the 2.3 autos and IRS Cobras. I plan on using the Yoshifab diff flange adapter to bring things to the proper length.

Looks like it'll about be a bolt-in affair, save for pedal mounting.
 
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