• Hello Guest, welcome to the initial stages of our new platform!
    You can find some additional information about where we are in the process of migrating the board and setting up our new software here

    Thank you for being a part of our community!

tfrasca's 142 Turbo Project

Loving this! Really wish there was an option or swapping out yet retaining the long throw shift location!

Well, the car's been running great and I've been putting some miles on it. So obviously, it's time to take it apart again. I pulled the M41 out and got the T5 mocked up yesterday. I got a 240 trans tunnel from Hiperfauto, which makes fitting it in the car much easier.

image2+%281%29.jpeg


image1+%281%29.jpeg


It sits a bit rotated to the left with the DeeWorks adapter on the "upright" setting, but I think I can massage the tunnel some more and it'll be fine.

This is what I'm thinking for the trans mount:

image3+%281%29.jpeg


The reason I want to do this and not the stock mustang mount is to get a wider footprint and hopefully reduce engine rotation. I figure if I can use two mounts further apart, they can be softer and still offer some stability.

Ideally, I'd angle the mounts forward to mimic the stock setup. I always thought it was weird how T5 swaps use vertical mounts when the motor mounts are tilted back. But everyone does it, so I'm sure it's great. We'll see how much effort I want to put into angling these two mounts.

Any input on that?
 
Loving this! Really wish there was an option or swapping out yet retaining the long throw shift location!

Yeah, I think you could do something with an S10 tailhousing, but I never looked into that very much. Honestly, after switching to the rear shifter position, I'd say the nostalgia isn't worth the compromise. Having the shifter right at your hand is pretty sweet for spirited driving.
 
I'm quite the nostalgia freak.. lol. I guess I don't know enough about the S10 mod yet to fully understand what would be entailed. Your ride is inspiring I've just started sorting out the suspension I want on my 142e and finding +50mm rear springs and +25mm front springs were not that easy. Dai at ClassicSwede hooked me up plus a set of extended length Gaz racing shocks for all 4 corners. I remember you mentioning you were running Gaz were you not? If so are you happy with them?

I'm also trying to get Weller Wheels to respond to me on making a set of 16x7 steel wheels with a -12 or -20 offset. See any issues with running that offset on these cars if I'm the opposite of lifted? Goal is to run a 235/55r16. I like that beefier stance. :)

Yeah, I think you could do something with an S10 tailhousing, but I never looked into that very much. Honestly, after switching to the rear shifter position, I'd say the nostalgia isn't worth the compromise. Having the shifter right at your hand is pretty sweet for spirited driving.
 
You can use an S10 T5 or adapt a Mustang T5 to use the front mounted shifter. It still wouldn't line up with the stock shifter hole, but it would be much closer and you wouldn't have to weld in a tunnel from a 240 like I did.

I have GAZ shock and I like them. The rears didn't last very long, but Dai sent out replacements and those have been ok.

I'm no wheel expert, so I'm not sure how those offsets would work, but to fit 235s, you'll probably end up modifying the fenders quite a bit. Do you have power steering? There's no way I'd run anything wider than 205 in the front with manual steering.
 
Well my plan was to have electric assist column put in with adaptive control so that turning those meats would be easier. From pictures I have seen of another 142 with +50mm rears it looks like the fenders ride over the wheel so there's no concern about tucking or scrub. I can attach a photo if I can find it. That offset would move the wheels out around 1.5" to 2" from the standard +25 offset that the stock wheels have or shall I say the 740 wheels that I have on it now.

You can use an S10 T5 or adapt a Mustang T5 to use the front mounted shifter. It still wouldn't line up with the stock shifter hole, but it would be much closer and you wouldn't have to weld in a tunnel from a 240 like I did.

I have GAZ shock and I like them. The rears didn't last very long, but Dai sent out replacements and those have been ok.

I'm no wheel expert, so I'm not sure how those offsets would work, but to fit 235s, you'll probably end up modifying the fenders quite a bit. Do you have power steering? There's no way I'd run anything wider than 205 in the front with manual steering.
 
I got the manifold back from powder coat, and it looks good. I took the car for a quick spin this morning with the Deka 60 lb injectors, 012 MAF, and the new surge tank set up. It ran rich for a while, but toward the end of a twenty minute drive, I was seeing normal idle/cruise AFRs, and it definitely stays rich into boost.

I have a slight leak at the fuel filter banjo, so I need to fix that before doing any full boost runs. One thing I'll say, is that the 044, even submerged in its little surge tank and soft mounted to the car, is quite loud. I may think about building an insulated box around it, or I may just accept that this is my stupid project car, and it's just loud.
 

Attachments

  • Manifold-0785.jpg
    Manifold-0785.jpg
    152.1 KB · Views: 277
  • Manifold-0786.jpg
    Manifold-0786.jpg
    157.1 KB · Views: 278
  • Manifold-0788.jpg
    Manifold-0788.jpg
    158.5 KB · Views: 275
That intake is a piece of art, stunning. Looking forward to seeing it mounted and hearing about the performance results.
 
Last edited:
Well, I've driven the car for a couple days, and it's not without its little issues. With my original TLOA chips, the car will idle and cruise with the Deka 60 lb injectors with 012 MAF. It's got a pretty harsh rich misfire at about 12-15 psi, and it pretty much falls on its face. Partial or full throttle doesn't seem to affect it. We're going to see if a different tune will help.

Also, the surge tank seems to work well, and my fuel pressure is now completely solid on the gauge. With all the other pump setups, it would fluctuate a lot, even at idle. I drove up the mountain for about an hour today, and the surge tank got hot to the touch and the pump was crazy loud. I need to investigate that. The line from the lift pump to the surge tank goes pretty close to the exhaust, but that's the only thing that would be adding any heat. I know the pump will generate heat, and if most of the hot fuel is returning to the surge tank (cruising), I could see how it would heat up. But it seems excessive.

Does anyone else with a surge tank have any data points on how much they heat up?

Here's a photo of the engine bay, currently. Also, I moved the LH harness up and out of the way of the manifold. Before, it was just jammed behind it with all the vacuum lines and had I let it go for a while longer, it probably would have rubbed through my new old stock heater control valve! I still need to make the brace for the manifold, but you can see the helicoiled M8 boss ready to go. So that's something.
 

Attachments

  • engine-1656.jpg
    engine-1656.jpg
    176 KB · Views: 248
  • engine-1657.jpg
    engine-1657.jpg
    199.3 KB · Views: 245
Yeah, that's always the killer, getting the exterior done. I'm actually trying to find a driver for my wagon, so it can actually go in the show, even looking the way it does. Figure the new work done to it might be worth showing off, but my usual co-drivers are all flaking.
 
Put tons of clear and polish the crap out of it like the VW guys? I am contemplating something like that, My car will never be straight really, and I like to think of it as a "survivor" or something, lol

I did buff and polish over everything at one point, and it looked awesome. I love the look, but it's a lot of maintenance. The clear over patina thing never looks quite right to me.
 
Yeah, that's always the killer, getting the exterior done. I'm actually trying to find a driver for my wagon, so it can actually go in the show, even looking the way it does. Figure the new work done to it might be worth showing off, but my usual co-drivers are all flaking.

How close are you to Ryan again? I think one of us is bringing a friend of ours, so maybe he could drive.
 
Ryan mentioned maybe having Mike drive it over if he rolls up with ya. Ryan is south of me by about 40 minutes, but to swing by my place before heading to Davis would only add about 10 miles total. That would be cool, roll in several deep. :)
 
Black with brass looks really nice :-) I did my inlet on my truck in matte black zinc primer with brass fittings (and white thread sealant, but...) and it looked pretty nice, but I was aiming for lack of rust, not appearance. That looks very sweet.
 
Black with brass looks really nice :-) I did my inlet on my truck in matte black zinc primer with brass fittings (and white thread sealant, but...) and it looked pretty nice, but I was aiming for lack of rust, not appearance. That looks very sweet.

Thanks, I like how it came out. Has more of a modern-ish OEM look now. I still need to make that brace though, or I'll be right back where I started. :oops:
 
Back
Top