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Old 11-16-2011, 01:32 AM   #26
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Sooo sick!
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Old 11-16-2011, 04:31 PM   #27
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Welp, the speedo's all crazy. It was completely inop at first with the 240 stamped steel diff cover and sensor, so I used one the cast aluminum covers from a 1041 axle and now the speedo bounces around all over the place. I think it has something to do with the air gap between the tone ring and the sensor. I din't use a paper gasket for the diff cover, just sealer, so I think I may need to put a shim between the sensor and cover to correct the air gap. Anyone else have this problem?
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Old 11-16-2011, 04:38 PM   #28
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can't comment on the speedo problem, but I've got some questions regarding your suspension.

You left the jeep springs stock length, correct? Did you have to lengthen the arms? Could I just use the jeep springs and longer shocks with stock length arms? Did you think about spacing out some overload springs rather than go with the jeep ones?
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Old 11-16-2011, 04:45 PM   #29
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Yep, stock cherokee front springs. Arms are stock length, so yes, you can use jeep springs, longer shocks and stock arms. When I first put it together I was using stock length shocks and they would bottom out, plus they were trashed. The pro-comp ones seem to work well and were only $35 or so from summit. I went with the jeep springs because I got them for free. I'm going to be putting spring spacers (hockey pucks) in the rear at some point because the rear sits a bit lower than I'd like. I have a set of torque rods and panhard bar that I will be making adjustable as well, right now the panhard bar is too short and the car drives crooked down the road.
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Old 02-08-2012, 04:21 PM   #30
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updates?
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Old 02-19-2012, 02:07 AM   #31
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Working on a big update, waiting on strut inserts to show up (220mm travel adjustable monotube) to start on the front coilovers. Have to do some measuring on the rear to see if I can fit an 8" travel coilover back there. Might end up building new trailing arms and running coilovers in front of the axle where the stock shock mounts. Roof rack and lights have been mounted for a while, guess I should get some pics of that up.
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Old 02-19-2012, 02:12 AM   #32
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I love this! You don't see many lifted wagons like this. Way to go. Hope this project goes smoothly for ya! Looks like it's gonna be a good one.

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Old 02-19-2012, 09:45 AM   #33
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Nice, Dan!
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Old 02-19-2012, 04:47 PM   #34
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dude your
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Old 02-19-2012, 05:57 PM   #35
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Took a few pics this morning. Also took the rear springs out to see what kinda travel I'm working with and see what I'm gonna do about the rear suspension.

Here's how it looks right now.





Took some pics of full bump and droop. With the current shocks the rear has 8.5" of available wheel travel, although, I don't think the springs will allow that.

Full bump, the tires are rubbing pretty good at this point, I'll definitely have to do some more hammer action.



Full droop.



The plan for the rear is to build new trailing arms that will be strong enough to use a 6.5" travel truck coilover in the stock shock position. I'll have to make a mount on the "frame rail" to move the mounting point inboard because the stock shock mounts to the outboard side of the frame rail in single shear. Not so good for mounting a coilover. I'll build pads on the axle end of the trailing arm for hydraulic bump stops that will be mounted in the stock spring location.

Coilovers I'll be using



Bumpstops

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Old 02-19-2012, 06:30 PM   #36
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This is ****in' rad. I want one.
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Old 02-19-2012, 10:20 PM   #37
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So bad ass dude. What are your plans for power? Im sure its pretty slow as is??
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Old 02-19-2012, 10:46 PM   #38
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Got a mitsu hybrid something or other, ebay ic, and pretty much all of the necessary items for the installation. Bought a spec stage 3+ clutch from jordan, hopefully getting a 2.4 flat flywheel pretty soon, should help with the revs. Been hoarding parts for quite a while actually hahaha.
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Old 02-21-2012, 10:21 PM   #39
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This is looking real good. I am probably going in a similar direction.
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Old 02-21-2012, 10:36 PM   #40
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That's awesome. Volvo should have sold a 245 like this from the factory.
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Old 02-21-2012, 11:09 PM   #41
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impressive!
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Old 02-23-2012, 08:52 PM   #42
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indeed
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Old 02-23-2012, 09:16 PM   #43
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So sick!
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Old 02-29-2012, 12:52 AM   #44
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Started getting all of the turbo stuff together, mocking up lines and such in preparation for +T. No, the engine is not going in the car, I'm just using it to mock up the turbo related stuff.

Here's the port work I've done on the manifold and turbine housing.




Welded a 3" v-band to the turbine outlet.



Here's my solution for the oil feed. I didn't really want to mess around with the plug at the front of the block, so I tapped a hole in the top of a 14x1.5 banjo bolt to 1/8" NPT



I found this oil pressure switch from a Toyota pick up, has the 1/8" pipe threads I was looking for.



I'm using a 14mm-4an banjo adapter at the stock oil pressure switch location then a 12mm-4an banjo at the turbo end.



Here's what it looks like so far.



The turbine housing and exhaust manifold will be coated with stove bright before final installation.
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Old 02-29-2012, 01:09 AM   #45
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So you tapped the side and top of that banjo, then?

Looks like it must have had only one hole on the side to begin with.

Wanna make me a setup like that?
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Old 02-29-2012, 01:25 AM   #46
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Originally Posted by harribert View Post
So you tapped the side and top of that banjo, then?

Looks like it must have had only one hole on the side to begin with.

Wanna make me a setup like that?
The banjo bolts have two holes in the side originally. I just tapped the hole in the top. I have a spare bolt and banjo-4an adapter I can set up for you. You want a switch too? They're only 5 or 6 bucks.



Oh yea, I fixed the speedo finally. Cleaned the corrosion out of the speedo head connector and had to shim the pickup a bit. When I put the locker in, I just used sealer instead of a paper gasket which apparently screwed up the air gap.
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Old 02-29-2012, 01:31 AM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crandandall View Post
The banjo bolts have two holes in the side originally. I just tapped the hole in the top. I have a spare bolt and banjo-4an adapter I can set up for you. You want a switch too? They're only 5 or 6 bucks.

.
Yeah that's what I was wondering about though: what did you do about the hole that...oooooh, I see what you did. the ring that sanwiches under the banjo has the -4 adapter, got it. Thought you did something else that wouldn't have made sense.

For sure, I'll cover your expenses plus shipping plus the cost of a pint.

Last edited by Harlard; 02-29-2012 at 01:37 AM..
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Old 02-29-2012, 01:45 AM   #48
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Off road jacked up turbo 240 wagon? A very unique and awesome car.
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Old 02-29-2012, 03:24 AM   #49
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The turbine housing and exhaust manifold will be coated with stove bright before final installation.


Looking good man!
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Old 03-24-2012, 06:48 PM   #50
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Small update.

Had a little free time at work today, so I decided I was going to put the rear spring spacers in. The rear sat about an inch lower than the front, so I bought a couple 3" diameter Delrin discs from McMaster and drilled holes in them for spacers.



Rear height measured at the pinch weld ~12"



Front height measured at pinch weld ~13"



Spacers installed between spring mount and frame rail



I had been using a large zip tie run through the bump stop bracket and around the top coil of the spring in order to keep the spring in place at full droop. That wasn't going to work with the spacers installed, so I cut a couple holes in each of the spring seats.



And used some hose clamps to keep the springs in place. I know it's kind of hokey, but it'll work until I convert to coilovers and actually have real limit straps.



New rear height



Nice and level now, no more saggy ass.



Other than that, not a whole lot going on as far as the project goes, still gathering parts for the +T, going to the junkyard this weekend to scour for the last few bits I need for that. Still in need of a flat flywheel drilled for LH2.4. I know the existing clutch in the car is going to be toast once the turbo's on. If anyone's got one, hit me up.
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