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Old 11-26-2015, 10:47 AM   #76
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Prime240 View Post
Hold on a second I was at that meet too
Who was selling the R-sport wheel???
Can't believe I missed that!!!
You were probably looking at the girls so you missed it!
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Old 11-26-2015, 10:50 AM   #77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by poulrais View Post
You were probably looking at the girls so you missed it!
Girls???
It's a Volvo meet not a JDM hella-camber-flush-meet
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Old 11-27-2015, 08:41 AM   #78
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Prime240 View Post
Girls???
It's a Volvo meet not a JDM hella-camber-flush-meet
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Old 11-27-2015, 09:17 AM   #79
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Prime240 View Post
Hold on a second I was at that meet too
Who was selling the R-sport wheel???
Can't believe I missed that!!!
Would have made a nice addition to the GT!
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Old 11-27-2015, 01:37 PM   #80
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Prime240 View Post
Hold on a second I was at that meet too
Who was selling the R-sport wheel???
Can't believe I missed that!!!
Would have made a nice addition to the GT!
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Old 11-27-2015, 02:09 PM   #81
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spruill242 View Post
Looking great.

Why not a b21f intake? No need to plug injector holes. Word on the street is they perform better also.
Years ago I had a few B21F intakes but they are all long since gone. I have all of the piping throttle cable, IAC hoses, tom make the B230 manifold work + I had a clean (I mean clean) manifold ready to use.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Prime240 View Post
Hold on a second I was at that meet too
Who was selling the R-sport wheel???
Can't believe I missed that!!!
Not sure who was selling it but my car was parked at the corner of wonderland & llderton Rd and they guy was right across from my car. I literally parked my car and walked over to the guy and I couldn't believe he had this thing for sale. Furthermore I was stunned when he told me the price.

I have made some progress on the B230 intake manifold swap.

I removed my old B21FT manifold




Removed the paint for the cold side IC piping. I will need to plug the 13mm port and add an 8 mm nipple for the waste gate pressure tube.



The intake maifold I used did not have a cut out of the cold starting valve so I added one as shown below.



Plugged Injector ports.



I am hoping to have this thing buttoned up in the next couple of weeks, but before I do I am seriously considering switching my WUR to a UTCIS-PT.
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Last edited by smoothdurban; 11-27-2015 at 05:20 PM..
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Old 11-27-2015, 04:13 PM   #82
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Wow...well done, what a transformation!!!
Also must be fun sharing with your dad!
/ sven
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Old 11-27-2015, 05:05 PM   #83
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Nice looking car. I wish mine looked like that. Nice work.
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Old 11-27-2015, 05:23 PM   #84
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Quote:
Originally Posted by V-O-L-V-O View Post
Wow...well done, what a transformation!!!
Also must be fun sharing with your dad!
/ sven
Thanks, my dad is getting up there in years so hes not as strong as he used to be, but he is still a great help.


Quote:
Originally Posted by coonmanx View Post
Nice looking car. I wish mine looked like that. Nice work.
Thanks I have seen much nicer cars, but I drive this thing every day in the summer and my bricks are not my only hobby so my cash gets spread around to other things, but all in all I love my 240's.

These cars deserve to be driven!
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Old 11-28-2015, 10:48 AM   #85
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smoothdurban View Post
Not sure who was selling it but my car was parked at the corner of wonderland & llderton Rd and they guy was right across from my car. I literally parked my car and walked over to the guy and I couldn't believe he had this thing for sale. Furthermore I was stunned when he told me the price.
You must have gotten there earlier than me
I had the GT with Quebec plates and was parked all the way back towards the fields of corn
Congrats on the car BTW really nice
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Old 11-28-2015, 11:51 AM   #86
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Prime240 View Post
You must have gotten there earlier than me
I had the GT with Quebec plates and was parked all the way back towards the fields of corn
Congrats on the car BTW really nice
Yup I remember the car. The GT with ecodes right!.

Nice car!
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Old 11-28-2015, 03:57 PM   #87
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Yeah that's his. Gorgeous car.
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Old 12-02-2015, 08:15 PM   #88
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I am hoping to have this thing buttoned up in the next couple of weeks, but before I do I am seriously considering switching my WUR to a UTCIS-PT.[/QUOTE]

Having recently acquired a kjet turbo car again, i read about UTCIS-PT.
Anybody use it?
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Old 12-02-2015, 08:20 PM   #89
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeSr. View Post

Having recently acquired a kjet turbo car again, i read about UTCIS-PT.
Anybody use it?
I will be using in in a couple of weeks.

I'll let you know how it turns out.
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Old 12-02-2015, 09:28 PM   #90
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Great- looking forward to it- thanks!
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Old 04-23-2016, 08:13 PM   #91
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Well its been a long awaited time coming but I finally cleared some time to add a knock sensor to the side of the block. I went with a knock sensor kit from knocksense. So I proceeded to drill and tap an 8mm thread on the side of the block, and why not add some ability to adjust my fuel map so I also added a UTCIS









THE UTCIS was an expensive upgrade but after a 650 Km round trip I am extremely pleased with it.

First I was able to increase the line pressure of my fuel system to provide adequate fuel supply for high RPM & boost levels but I was able to fine tune my control pressure at idle and a wide range of engine speeds and MAP conditions.

With the recently added knock sensor I was comfortable running 16 - 17 PSI of boost and the car performs very well. The best part was I was able to smooth out the annoying 4 PSI MAP duty cycle enrichment. I don't have actual numbers yet but today's drive yielded a considerable improvement in fuel economy, and I was on the gas pretty hard at times.

Below is a picture of my fuel map that works best for my car



Steve over at UTCIS was more then helpful in getting me started with my tune and helping me diagnose a cold starting issue. If you want to keep Kjet, increase tune ability and need to replace you WUR. I would seriously consider it.
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Old 12-20-2019, 10:39 PM   #92
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After taking a bit of a hiatus on my 242 I have decided to spend some more time working and driving my 242.

A little back story for the gap.

A couple of years back a ran my oil a little low on my B21FT. I didn't notice it until it was a little too late and my engine was pouched. I pulled the engine in an effort to find what had happened and how did my oil level drop without any leaks or and noticeable smoke while driving. After disassembly I found the cylinder walls were worn and as a result to the low oil but I didn't find the cause. Then it dawned on me, I recall a certain portion of my morning commute that required my coasting down a fairly long hill to a complete stop. A few times I noticed that after I came to a complete stop I smelled a hint of burning oil. I looked at the cylinder head and I found that the valve guide were worn. But how? My only thought was then under a long decel there was a considerable amount of vacuum being generated in the combustion chamber and this vacuum was pulling oil into the combustion chamber and and burning it ever so slightly. Over time the engine must of consumed more and more oil until one day when I flung my car through a turn at highway speeds I saw the oil light come one. By the time I was able to stop it was too late.

So my engine was worn and needed some attention. A friend of my fathers who runs a machine shop suggested to do an aggressive hone to which used to be called a a 10 up oversize. I wanted to use 0.024" oversize pistons but sadly I couldn't locate any at that time for my b21FT so I let him talk me into it. This was a mistake! After all this effort the engine never ran right and before I knew it it was hard to start when cold with low compression in less then 5000 miles. At this point I was pretty discouraged and I really didn't want to spend any more time with the car. I even contemplated selling it.

Fast forward to Sept of 2018 and I came across a 91 740 turbo with an m46, hydraulic clutch, and a g80 locker in it. I figured I could pull the B230FT out of it and pop the head off of it and plant my kJet head on it and viola, I could be driving me car again.

After pulling the head off of the b230FT I noticed a large ridge on the top of cylinder #1 so I really didn't feel comfortable resealing that shortblock and installing into my car as I would probably be pulling again in a few months.

At this point I found a new machinist who had his own machine shop and he was willing work with me to refinish my block so I would have a working reliable engine.

We built a usable shortblock that was going to help me get my beloved 242 back on the road.

While the block was being built I began to contemplate what do for EMS. Currently I had a functional working kjet car and after working with the system for a couple of summers I liked the ease and simplicity to keep it running. What I didn't like was the fuel consumption. This thing was a pig at with reserved driving I could hope to achieve 17 mpg.
With my driving style and engine configuration I was averaging 15!

However after doing some more thinking I decided to change the EMS to LH2.4. The swap seemed easy enough and other then the harness I had pretty much everything I needed to get it to work.

So that's the route I went. I wished I had taken some pictures and documented this process but life takes over and sometimes working on the car is all I had time todo.

What I was able to do it to get a working LH2.4 B230FT in my 242 with wasted spark, a hydraulic clutch. The car is drive able and fun again and with some additional changes it could be even better.

So at this point I am reviving my build thread.

This is as it sits now.

IMG_3355[1]

more to come.

Last edited by smoothdurban; 12-21-2019 at 07:43 AM..
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Old 12-20-2019, 10:59 PM   #93
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Nice project. You might want to check ogamer777's for sale thread and see if there are any rare goodies you can't live without...
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Old 12-23-2019, 08:52 PM   #94
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All summer I have had the odd clutch slippage issues. Usually in 3rd or 4th gear, very noticeable with a passenger. The clutch and flywheel I installed in the car were new and have less then 5,000 miles on them so I think my issue is power related.

I've read this is normal around the 250 hp range and that my M46 would grenade if I got a stiffer pressure plate so I decide to ask a favor of a friend of mine who works at Tremec.

so this happened.

PHIM0634[1]

I decided to add a short throw to my T5. I guess it has always been a boyhood dream to have a Hurst shifter so yeah this also happened.
IMG_3354[1]

IMG_3357[1]

I used the following pig tail to tap into the reverse light circuit
IMG_3364[1]

Mock up undercar wiring today
IMG_3365[1]


and the finished product
IMG_3366[1]

The old m46 that came out. Anyone need one sans bell housing? This thing has 145k km on it.
IMG_3360[1]

Removed the pilot bearing
IMG_3361[1]

and installed the new one
IMG_3369[1]

Also got some nice yoshifab goodies. Thanks Josh!
IMG_3359[1]

The old clutch and flywheel will be up for sale shortly.

Looking forward to adding the T5.

Last edited by smoothdurban; 12-23-2019 at 09:45 PM..
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Old 12-23-2019, 09:18 PM   #95
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Sweet ride! I too am bummed at the <15 mpg I get in the turbo kjet but it does it's job pretty well for now.
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Old 12-26-2019, 11:20 AM   #96
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After reviewing my options I decided to go with a deeworks T5 Adapter.

And the Yoshifab billet flywheel and clutch

IMG_3371[1]

I used an old section of ring gear to hold the flywheel in position before I torque the fasteners down.

IMG_3374[1]

and the flywheel and clutch are in!

IMG_3373[1]

I attached the the trans adapter plate to the bell housing

IMG_3375[1]

And finally the trans gets installed to the car.

It worth noting that I mated the trans and the bell housing together before installing them in the car

IMG_3376[1]

Heres where thing got weird

My trans mount is parallel to ground but there is a 5° drop from the drivers side to the passenger side. When I try to keep equal spacing between the trans output and the tunnel the shifter location is biased to the drivers side
IMG_3416[1]

When I try to keep equal spacing between the trans output and the tunnel the shifter is biased to the drivers side.

IMG_3423[1]

IMG_3417[1]

I Found post 80 of the following thread that seems to look at this same issue but links to the photos are blocked and it appears the 5° drop is normal?

UPDATE confirmed the 5° drop is by design

http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=274616&page=4

I was also curious what other t5 swaps are using for drop angle as well. Right now I have it set to 2.4°

IMG_3422[1]


Also If I want to move my shifter to a more central location it will make the distance between the output shaft housing and the trans tunnel not equal which may cause the drive shaft to rub.

Last edited by smoothdurban; 01-07-2020 at 08:14 PM..
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Old 01-03-2020, 05:43 PM   #97
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Yes I finally go the T5 installed.

My contact at Tremec hooked me up with some of this.



I was able to source a driveshaft from ShaftMasters out of Lincoln Park MI. the fit seems ok.






And a shout out again to Josh for the excellent transmission mount. This mount is adjustable in every axis needed for a good fit.


But even after all of this effort yes I have the dreaded cost down and accel vibration.
Currently my driveline drop angle is set to 2.9° driveshaft is about 1.6° and my pinion angle is 2.2°. I have spent the better part of the holiday trying different combinations of angles and I don't seem to get a whole lot of difference.

The coast down vibration begins at about 3,600 RPM to 2,800 RPM. and my excel vibration is evident at 2,000 RPM to about 3,000 RPM in WOT.

Both conditions seem to be trans related as the are dependent on engine speed and not vehicle speed.

One unusual instance I have noticed is when I repeat an accel in 5th followed by a decel the shifter will slide out of 5th after repeating this accel/decel cycle a half dozen times or so. Its almost like the vibration in coast down is helping the shifter slide out of 5th.

One thing that seemed to help was I swapped out the Poly trans mount I bought from Josh with a standard rubber one. This allows for a little more give as opposed to the very rigid poly mount.

The condition was pretty bad when I first started to drive the car but since I have put about 200 miles on the trans it hasn't occurred.

More to this in the future but for now it is driveable and smooth well up to 160 kph (100 mph)

I also had a couple of shifter balls to choose from. Both nicely branded, one white one black. For now I will stick with the Tremec one




I also installed a new coolant reservoir bottle and bracket I sourced from Johnathan over at swedishiron.com. Much better then the clamp strap I had there before.




Over the next few weeks I will be working on replacing my dreaded Saginaw Slinger with a type II GM pump.

Last edited by smoothdurban; 01-03-2020 at 07:34 PM..
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Old 01-03-2020, 06:26 PM   #98
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The coast down vibration begins at about 3,600 RPM to 2,800 RPM. and my excel vibration is evident at 2,000 RPM to about 3,000 RPM in WOT.
We all experience this vibration:

https://forums.tbforums.com/showthread.php?t=352028

It's a "feature". Culberro says he does not have that problem but the man sets them up himself so there must be a special sauce input/output/counter shaft shimming setup.
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My knob has a big chunk of steel on it
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Old 01-03-2020, 08:13 PM   #99
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Originally Posted by Harlard View Post
We all experience this vibration:

https://forums.tbforums.com/showthread.php?t=352028

It's a "feature". Culberro says he does not have that problem but the man sets them up himself so there must be a special sauce input/output/counter shaft shimming setup.
Glad to be part of such a prestigious club!

So slip yoke dampers and other trickery is a waste of time?
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Old 01-03-2020, 08:32 PM   #100
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From what I can gather they do the trick. Fitting them in a 240 tunnel requires a fair bit of cutting.
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