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Old 08-07-2015, 01:57 PM   #251
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also, those are blades
DAMMIT
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My knob has a big chunk of steel on it
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Old 08-07-2015, 02:55 PM   #252
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Remember that your compressor is a slightly smaller trim than the production GTX2860R. If you get a replacement wheel you'll either need to down-trim it, or (better option) get a standard compressor housing to match.
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Old 08-07-2015, 02:57 PM   #253
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Remember that your compressor is a slightly smaller trim than the production GTX2860R. If you get a replacement wheel you'll either need to down-trim it, or (better option) get a standard compressor housing to match.
In that case I could also get a 63 or 71 wheel and housing, yes?
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Old 08-07-2015, 03:08 PM   #254
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Not really. The wheel recess is machined into the cast iron center housing based on exducer diameter. It's an integrated backplate, with that thin aluminum ring to adapt it to the compressor housing.

Going to a different sized exducer will require a new center housing; not really an option.
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Old 08-07-2015, 04:53 PM   #255
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2860 it is!
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Old 08-07-2015, 07:06 PM   #256
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If you had access to the parts bin for GT ball bearing center sections it would be no problem to switch center housings and compressor wheels, but at that point you're rebuilding the turbo. No rebuild kit is sold for these so it's not a viable option.

I'm sure you'd be perfectly happy with the standard 58-trim GTX2860R compressor stage if you need to replace your wheel. That's an IF.
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Old 08-07-2015, 11:13 PM   #257
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I'm perfectly happy with it as is. Hoping that the porting and reshaping of the hotside will improve boost control. Meanwhile...





Used some vacuum hose to cover the edges of this hole. Oil filter lines will pass through here.



The end of a rather sweaty and slow-moving afternoon under the car. It's nice to be able to take my time while I work on things. So much more enjoyable than being pressured to have the car running by dinner time!

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Old 08-13-2015, 02:09 PM   #258
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TB as hell. At any rate, access is excellent and the install went very well. Core support panel is sturdy enough to spin the oil filter on and off, which is nice. Oil cooler is in the stock location, albeit pushed to the side a bit. Not sure about trans cooler as the lines look hokey as hell. Hoping a manual trans swap will be the answer to clean it up.

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Old 08-13-2015, 02:56 PM   #259
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I also need to install the full barrage of heat exchangers on my DD turbo'd B230. Nice work.
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Old 08-13-2015, 11:19 PM   #260
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YEP, that manual swap is calling your name.

I was looking for a sport for my filter relocation and wanted to mount it pointing stright down behind the radiator, unfortunately that doesn't work unless you move the IC in front of the A/C condensor. So I ended up mounting it just above the frame rail, pointing forward as a temporary solution.
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Old 08-13-2015, 11:27 PM   #261
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YEP, that manual swap is calling your name.

I was looking for a sport for my filter relocation and wanted to mount it pointing stright down behind the radiator, unfortunately that doesn't work unless you move the IC in front of the A/C condensor. So I ended up mounting it just above the frame rail, pointing forward as a temporary solution.
Thought of that but I wanted to use bolts and nuts as opposed to sheet metal screws. Just nicer on the old non-galvanized body
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Old 08-13-2015, 11:40 PM   #262
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Thought of that but I wanted to use bolts and nuts as opposed to sheet metal screws. Just nicer on the old non-galvanized body
I feel you on that bit, 100%. mine is a 91' so that was not so much a concern . Eventually I'll upgrade to an rx7 oil cooler, all metal IC (in front of of the condenser) so I can mount the oil filter using the lower radiator shelf, where it should be
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Old 08-17-2015, 02:40 AM   #263
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Got the turbo put back together with a very ported turbine housing. Ditched the ARP nuts as they kept on backing out, for some copper plated stainless locknuts. Keeping the ARP studs.

As for the oil cooler, oldschoolvolvo wanted some info on how the stockers mount. Here's the explanation, should anyone need this sort of info (NPR and stock oil cooler or something to that effect):

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Do you have any pics of the oil cooler installed in your 242? I'm planning out a +T swap and am having trouble visualizing where the stock 240T oil cooler is mounted. Thanks.
Here you go. In the first pic you can see it sits next to the intercooler. It rests on the rubber grommet used for the air box in NA cars:



Cold side intercooler neck. View from right above battery tray. Had to bend the bracket ever so gently. Still touches intercooler. Bothers me, but not enough to take it all out again. Too many things to do. Will bother with it once I find black paint that does not look brown in the sun and I get around to respraying everything:



This pic is from above the passenger fender. both lines cross over and down below the crank pulley:

You can see the same soft lines under the crank pulley, There is a bracket that holds the hard lines that shares mounting points with the alternator. They snake further toward the passenger side fender, then curve above the crossmember:




View from passenger fender. At this point I think it's pretty self-explanatory:



Let me know whether you need some more help!

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Old 08-17-2015, 02:44 AM   #264
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Nice! I have been seriously needing to install the cooler/remote filter I have for mine.
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Old 08-17-2015, 02:53 AM   #265
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Nice! I have been seriously needing to install the cooler/remote filter I have for mine.
Dude it took me months of not wanting to do this **** and perished oil to get to this point Hoping that the extra oil/cooling capacity will pay off in terms of the thing not being so unhappy in traffic/hot weather.

The boost creep issue was is also driving me slightly mad, so it was very convenient to do this while I was in there. The extra hose, fittings, odds, and ends completely obliterated my (admittedly shoestring) budget as they usually do.

Now I need to put together a catch can setup. Tempted to get a Yoshifab vented oil cap and mechanical pump cover as my PCV stuff and to get rid of the block mounted deal, and get a something in there for separating oil and draining it back to the crankcase.
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Old 08-17-2015, 03:07 AM   #266
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Dude it took me months of not wanting to do this **** and perished oil to get to this point Hoping that the extra oil/cooling capacity will pay off in terms of the thing not being so unhappy in traffic/hot weather.

The boost creep issue was is also driving me slightly mad, so it was very convenient to do this while I was in there. The extra hose, fittings, odds, and ends completely obliterated my (admittedly shoestring) budget as they usually do.

Now I need to put together a catch can setup. Tempted to get a Yoshifab vented oil cap and mechanical pump cover as my PCV stuff and to get rid of the block mounted deal, and get a something in there for separating oil and draining it back to the crankcase.

During every oil change I have the filter off and contemplate installing it but don't. It's simply a job that does not appeal to me. Installing my catch can setup is also on my list as I am not too keen on venting to atmosphere. I also need to install the evo9 turbo I have. That might be a good time to do it.

The porting didn't help your creeps?
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Old 08-17-2015, 03:19 AM   #267
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During every oil change I have the filter off and contemplate installing it but don't. It's simply a job that does not appeal to me. Installing my catch can setup is also on my list as I am not too keen on venting to atmosphere. I also need to install the evo9 turbo I have. That might be a good time to do it.

The porting didn't help your creeps?
Car's still half a pile of parts on the floor and half car. We shall see!!
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Old 08-20-2015, 09:17 PM   #268
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Engine bay is back together. I'll call it done once I get the R-Sport cluster wired up and installed. Sender has been mounted remotely and for the time being I have it strapped to the sway bar. If for whatever reason it's not happy there I have the option to move it to a more convenient location.



So my Greddy catch can turns out to be empty inside (wa-womp) so what is a man to do? Baffle it! Put some coarse steel wool (looks untrustworthy...going to get something less likely to get sucked into the sump, probably stainless steel scrubbing pads), and put in some baffling in the form of drilled sheet stainless, with a 1/4" return fitting in the bottom. The theory here is that the drain will act as an additional input fitting, as the one that will end up going to the intake is isolated from the other two.

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Old 08-21-2015, 02:54 AM   #269
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Take off your cat and run it into the exhaust. Works great
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Old 08-21-2015, 12:29 PM   #270
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What if I put it behind the cat?
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Old 08-21-2015, 02:23 PM   #271
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What if I put it behind the cat?
You can, but you can run the risk of fouling your mufflers too...Eventually.

You need to drill/weld in a bung with an angled fitting that creates a venturi so that the movement of the exhaust creates a vacuum (with the use of a one-way valve).

It can be done, but I just don't know if the exhaust on a 2.3 has enough volume/velocity to work. I spoke with Summit about it and they say that it doesn't work unless you have a straight through exhaust.

though there are people who have done it with decent success.

http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=256223
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Old 08-23-2015, 04:33 PM   #272
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Last edited by Harlard; 08-24-2015 at 07:23 PM..
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Old 08-23-2015, 05:08 PM   #273
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http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-97810

and this

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-97800
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Old 08-24-2015, 07:34 PM   #274
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Drove the car to work today. No issues at all with the extra radiator and oil lines other than slightly lower oil pressure than what I was expecting. Gonna put on the mechanical gauge here soon to confirm that oil pressure is acceptable. Right now driving around at 80 degrees ambient with moderate traffic and a lead foot the callibrated coolant temp gauge shows 85 degrees Celsius. Perfect.

As for boost, with the wastegate actuator tightened to Garrett's specifications and the boost controller turned to what would have been dangerous amounts of boost prior to the port job, I see around 15 psi at WOT, highway speeds. Nice thing is that I now see this much boost at the top of first gear. I'll crank the actuator another half turn or two and see where that lands me. At any rate, the turbo is now nicely responsive without boost creep up top. Engine still wants more timing down low (especially at idle...it loooooves 20 degrees at idle with this larger cam), and less up top. Fuel could also stand to be trimmed back a bit. So far it does not look like I'm too close to running out of injector. Surprising given that these are S70 units that don't flow all that much. Probably because haggard old block. And low boost. Most likely that it's a haggard old block.

Oh yes, definiftely need a baffled fitting for the PCV. Blowby has not improved much.
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Old 08-24-2015, 10:17 PM   #275
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Oil pressure is really low from what little I saw on the video.
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