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Old 04-26-2020, 04:43 PM   #501
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Installed some 3D printed 95A durometer poly swaybar bushings today, and a 21mm sway (up from 19). According to the scant information on the internet about this sort of thing, my car should explode and kill hundreds of innocent babies on the first test drive.

I'm actually expecting it to work fine, and if it doesn't, I imagine there will be a clunking noise. Once some 85A poly filament comes in next week, I'll make endlink bushings too.



[note] I cut one in half and there are no layer lines. It's a solid piece of poly, no air bubbles, no infill lines, nothing. I printed them at 100% infill, and they came out much like the DIY 2-part pour kits would. I'll report back if there any explosions.
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Old 04-26-2020, 07:12 PM   #502
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i dig all the 3d printed bits, i would do the same if i had a way of modeling them on my PC. If they wear out, print more, at probably less than $1 each you have many miles ahead of you even if they wear very prematurely. I look at it this way, if you can print a Glock 17 out of nylon and it functions for over 1000 rounds fired, i think 3d printing is pretty solid tech. Keep up the cool out of the box work, i will look forward to checking it out.
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Old 04-26-2020, 09:36 PM   #503
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Thanks man. I'll be doing a lot of cruising this week, and on saturday I'm going to pull one of them and see how worn they are. I'm expecting they'll be fine, or maybe a bit chunked out, but I am optimistic .

Plus...this gives me something to do, since I've been off work for a month. Without projects, I'd be laying in the dark, singing Johnny Cash songs to myself.
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Old 05-06-2020, 08:12 PM   #504
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A 95A TPU swaybar bushing after 400km of country road driving.



Success! It looks great, so I'm leaving them in and going for some long-term testing. I have no idea how they will handle cold temps, but since it's a spring/summer/fall car, I don't have to worry about it.

I designed some endlink bushings and installed them today too. This time, I used 85A durometer Ninjaflex TPU.



Everything is up on Thingiverse, if anyone wants to try them out. Print at 100% infill.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4342586


While I was under the car looking at bushings, I hopefully also fixed the oil leak at the turbo return...and tightened some frighteningly-loose driveshaft bolts. A new alternator and sparkplugs are on the way from Rockauto too.
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Old 05-15-2020, 03:45 PM   #505
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I risked breaking 40 year old clips in order to get better coverage when cutting/polishing/waxing. Only broke 2, so I call that a win .

I still have the polishing compound and wax to go, since I do it all by hand. It's f***ing exhausting.

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Old 05-16-2020, 05:53 PM   #506
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Done. The light is flat but it's 100% better than before.



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Old 05-20-2020, 04:32 PM   #507
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Terrible picture of my new-to-me GTX light bezels .

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Old 05-20-2020, 06:29 PM   #508
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I have those bezels as well. How do you like yours?
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Old 05-22-2020, 02:36 PM   #509
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I like them. They're different .

Since I have/had a full 1993 parts 240, I finally got around to installing an electronic cluster. I've been using a GPS speedo since my swap, since the cable had nowhere to plug into the AW30-40. I'm running a G80 with a 48-tooth tone wheel, and the appropriate aluminum diff cover, so I figured I'd give it a shot. Followed some instructions I found on here, and bingo bango...working speedo . Having an ABS cluster made it a LOT easier, since it takes the 48-tooth wheel signal in without external conditioning. It's about 5-6 kph fast, due to my wheel/tire combo, but it's so nice to see the speedo work.
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Old 05-24-2020, 10:40 PM   #510
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Interesting discoveries going on here. Speeduino firmware has been updated to include a VSS input, so I immediately set about to make it work on my car. It requires a pre-conditioned signal (square wave) which I figured could be taken from the cluster, since the one I'm using is from a 1993 with ABS and cruise.

Well...it kinda works, but it kinda doesn't. I'm using pin #6 on the round connector on the back of the cluster, which is a VSS signal to the ECU...and there's definitely a pulse there. My cluster is in KM (obvs...Canadian here), so the PPK is something like 24694. At idle, the KPH display fluctuates quite a bit, even though I have the filtering turned way up. It's a start though, and I'm sure there's just something I am missing. I've been experimenting with pull up resistors, but no value seems big enough, and I'm up into the 330Mohm values now.
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Old 05-26-2020, 03:33 PM   #511
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On the pre-98 whiteblocks, the serpentine tensioning system has two idler pullies. One of those is on the tension arm itself and is a bearing sandwiched in between two metal discs. Well, mine squeaked like crazy and drove me up the wall, and I'm not going to buy a new one for $50. None of the pick'n'pull yards around me had any pre-98 whiteblocks so I just drilled out the rivets holding the bearing sandwich apart, went down to Princess Auto and bought a 6203RS bearing. Split the pulley, put in the new bearing, modified the tension arm a bit for clearance for the bolts holding it together, and it's now squeak free . Not too bad for a $10 repair, including bolts.
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Old 06-11-2020, 08:23 AM   #512
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I took some time during this extended apocalypse, since I have been told to work from home...but can't actually do my job at home...to try to tame the sound of my car a bit. I'm not a fan of the way the B6304 sounds with the exhaust I made, and now wish I had used 2.5" piping instead of 3". I installed a second resonator and it has made a difference, somewhat.

I've also been working on perfecting the tune and am probably as close as I can get to 'perfect enough'. It's really more of a 'me' problem than an actual tune issue. I just can't leave well-enough alone. Another thing I might do is re-design my swaybar bushings. They're squeaking pretty loudly on long travel movements, so I am going to put in some grooves for grease.
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Old 06-11-2020, 03:36 PM   #513
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Make a 2.5" OE-style S-bend end pipe. Noticeable difference.
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Old 06-11-2020, 04:26 PM   #514
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I might give that a try. It's currently using the stock exhaust path, but the tailpipe goes straight out.
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Old 06-11-2020, 08:04 PM   #515
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Broke4speed View Post
Having an ABS cluster made it a LOT easier, since it takes the 48-tooth wheel signal in without external conditioning. It's about 5-6 kph fast, due to my wheel/tire combo, but it's so nice to see the speedo work.
Good info! I have a 93 cluster, rear end, and the wiring all the way to the cluster for the speed sensor. That's one less issue down the road when I build my 84 242 with a 5 cyl. Hope there isn't too much other drama getting the 93 cluster to function in the 84..... plenty of time to compare the wiring diagrams.
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Old 06-12-2020, 12:50 PM   #516
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It was a super simple swap. There's only a couple of wires that need moving, I got all the info from this thread .

https://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=188797
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Old 06-18-2020, 09:53 PM   #517
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It never ends. I'm getting very confusing readings from my wideband, and it's causing me to re-tune virtually every time I get the car out. I have a new sensor to try, and while it's a VERY slim possibility, I made a patch harness to swap back to the MS2 that was in the car before in order to test all options.

Honestly...I'm really starting to feel the urge to do some sort of stock swap so I can just drive the car without thinking about it. LS or 1/2/3UZ maybe.
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Old 06-18-2020, 10:10 PM   #518
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It never ends. I'm getting very confusing readings from my wideband, and it's causing me to re-tune virtually every time I get the car out. I have a new sensor to try, and while it's a VERY slim possibility, I made a patch harness to swap back to the MS2 that was in the car before in order to test all options.

Honestly...I'm really starting to feel the urge to do some sort of stock swap so I can just drive the car without thinking about it. LS or 1/2/3UZ maybe.
As much as I hate to hear you say that, I get it. I was all about building off the wall stuff until I did it. lol Tuning my NA 3800 car for a turbo is such a massive PITA with the stock ECM. It's bad enough that I don't know what I'm doing when it comes to tuning, but dealing with failing parts that were not designed to hold power, E85 problems, finding out that you actually need TWO different tuning softwares to complete the tune (one of which is NLA), and having a very small enthusiast community makes progress very slow. I've nearly given up a couple times.

I don't have much advice except for just sticking with it even if the car has to sit a while. One way or another you'll figure it out. It will make the completed product feel like an even bigger victory. Afterall, you've gotten this far! It would be a shame to quit now.
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Old 06-18-2020, 10:43 PM   #519
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Broke4speed View Post
It never ends. I'm getting very confusing readings from my wideband, and it's causing me to re-tune virtually every time I get the car out. I have a new sensor to try, and while it's a VERY slim possibility, I made a patch harness to swap back to the MS2 that was in the car before in order to test all options.

Honestly...I'm really starting to feel the urge to do some sort of stock swap so I can just drive the car without thinking about it. LS or 1/2/3UZ maybe.
As much as I'd hate to see you pull the plug on the B6304S+T,
go 2jz.
You already have the trans/driveshaft.
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Old 06-19-2020, 09:13 AM   #520
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Quote:
Originally Posted by volvowagoon View Post
As much as I hate to hear you say that, I get it. I was all about building off the wall stuff until I did it. lol Tuning my NA 3800 car for a turbo is such a massive PITA with the stock ECM. It's bad enough that I don't know what I'm doing when it comes to tuning, but dealing with failing parts that were not designed to hold power, E85 problems, finding out that you actually need TWO different tuning softwares to complete the tune (one of which is NLA), and having a very small enthusiast community makes progress very slow. I've nearly given up a couple times.

I don't have much advice except for just sticking with it even if the car has to sit a while. One way or another you'll figure it out. It will make the completed product feel like an even bigger victory. Afterall, you've gotten this far! It would be a shame to quit now.
I'm hoping to have some small victory soon, one way or the other. I am really just frustrated with the tune issue, which I didn't count on, and it's getting to me a bit. I'm going to relocate the wideband O2 and install a fresh sensor today, and see if that helps.

The 'swap to something else' is really just a fantasy because the funds are just not there. We may need to replace the furnace before winter, so my wife would probably explode in rage if I showed up with another engine/trans combo, lol.
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Old 06-19-2020, 09:18 AM   #521
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As much as I'd hate to see you pull the plug on the B6304S+T,
go 2jz.
You already have the trans/driveshaft.
I definitely don't have the funds for a $4k JDM 2JZ. The NA models are a dime-a-dozen in the local yards, but swapping to a naturally aspirated JZ isn't really going to solve any problems, lol.

The only reason I'd consider a 1/2/3UZ or LS is the fact that I'd have all the torque I wanted for daily driving, and the factory ecu would be easy to wire in. Both of those engines are pretty easy to find for reasonably cheap up here.

I'm just being emo, ultimately. I'm going to stick with what's there...one way or another .
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Old 06-19-2020, 02:30 PM   #522
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Went for a drive to try out a few things...and had an interesting time.

1) I relocated my wideband bung to be further down the downpipe, and that resulted in no change in readings. I also swapped out the sensor for a 'generic' off-the-shelf 17025 from Amazon, which seems to be the LSU 4.9 sensor of choice for all the wideband manufacturers. I can now confirm that it is a perfect match to the original sensor in the AEM wideband. $60 CAD on Amazon (not Bosch) vs. $120+ CAD for the AEM one...and it came in one day...so I know who wins that match.

2) Stopped on the side of a country road about 15 min from home to do some tuning...and the firmware in the ecu went corrupt somehow. The Speeduino I'm using is partially of my own design, and maybe there's some power issues or noise. Luckily I had made a patch harness to go from the Speeduino ecu to the MS2 I was using last year...and I had thrown it in the car before I left. I had been planning on trying it out if issues persisted, so I plugged it in and drove home. It looks like I'm sticking with it for now, because I really just want to drive my car and the tune that is in it is PERFECT. I perfected it last year, so the car is back to being turn-key again.

This is in NO way a bad review of Speeduino ECUs. What it IS is a bad review of my own handiwork when it comes to ECU building when I don't have a recipe to follow. The proper DIY Speeduino kit is probably a better option than the homemade PCB-thing I made. I just want to enjoy my car for now, so the experimenting will have to wait until winter .
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Old 06-19-2020, 04:59 PM   #523
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Quote:
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I definitely don't have the funds for a $4k JDM 2JZ. The NA models are a dime-a-dozen in the local yards, but swapping to a naturally aspirated JZ isn't really going to solve any problems, lol.

The only reason I'd consider a 1/2/3UZ or LS is the fact that I'd have all the torque I wanted for daily driving, and the factory ecu would be easy to wire in. Both of those engines are pretty easy to find for reasonably cheap up here.

I'm just being emo, ultimately. I'm going to stick with what's there...one way or another .
The correct answer is NA 2jz with a thicker HG.
$500-700 all day long plus a $150 manifold and a HX35 or something
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Old 06-19-2020, 06:19 PM   #524
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Is there something I'm missing? What's so special about the NA 2JZ, I mean, outside of the fact that anything 2J has a massive amount of scene tax applied to it now. Nobody up here wants them even though the local junkyard chain sells all engines for $399 tax in. The one near my house has three or four IS300s of various years, and the engines are all still untouched.
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Old 06-23-2020, 11:16 AM   #525
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After an unfortunate ID10T error with my CORE4 speeduino ecu...it's back up and running . Check out www.diy-efi.co.uk for neat stuff like the CORE4. I wanted a smaller form-factor speedy ecu, so I got one of their brain modules and made my own header PCB to hold the MAP sensor, VR conditioner, and ampseal connector. James, the owner, had me back up and running in no time flat...even though it was totally my fault, lol.

Let's just say when you try to custom modify your credit card-sized SMT ecu...don't. Luckily some instructions were given to repair the damage, and the work went much better than the original modification attempt. I can't say enough good things about DIY-EFI.

Yep, seems like an ad...and I hope more people shop there. .
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