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Advance/retard timing on EZ116K

Switching the base timing back and forth maybe 20-100 times during a drive is not going to be good for the EZK or LH2.4 ECU. They will adapt everytime a new change is made.

Switching manually between the different steps is going to work great though, but not 20 times per hour.
 
frpe82 said:
Switching the base timing back and forth maybe 20-100 times during a drive is not going to be good for the EZK or LH2.4 ECU. They will adapt everytime a new change is made.

Switching manually between the different steps is going to work great though, but not 20 times per hour.

Ooohhhh..... I'd forgotten about the adaptability part of this equation.

Hmmmmmm........ :???:
 
BDKR said:
Ooohhhh..... I'd forgotten about the adaptability part of this equation.

Hmmmmmm........ :???:
Yeah... so I guess the stamp or PIC processors are out of the picture. We can not let the timing change up and down several times during an acceleration run, out of the EZK?s control.

A switch where you choose the desired advance/retard will work great.
 
I rigged my 148 box up on my desk tonight to check it (can?t do it in the car since it is not running at the moment).

I powered it with a stable 13.8v power supply, measured the voltages with my multimeter, stimulated it with my frequency/pattern generator and looked at the signals with my 20MHz oscilloscope.

All the signals are un-terminated to see any reference voltages or similar.

Results:

1: OBD diagnostic socket (in some markets: serial interface) /5v
2: Coolant temp sensor /5.5v
3: Check Engine Light output, shared with ECU pin 22. Signals: 12-off, 1-on /5.5v
4: PRE-IGNition, output to ECU pin 28. Signals: 0-Preign, 6.5-stable, 12-knock /5.5v
5: 12v supply, constant /Supplied with 13.8v
6: 12v supply, switched /Supplied with 13.8v
7: Throttle idle switch /5.1v
8: Load Signal Tq, from ECU pin 25 /5.4v
9: /Gnd
10: Engine speed sensor /5.1v
11: Engine speed sensor (shield) /5.4v
12: Knock sensor (shield) /5.1v
13: Knock sensor /6.1v
14: EGR, Ground connector on engine (power ground) /5.1v
15: EGR, converter, control /6.25v
16: Igntion amplifier drive, trigger /5.1v
17: Engine speed signal output. Signals: 6.5-cranking, >8-idle /Gnd
18: Selector wire. Signals: 5v-disabled, grounded-enabled /5.1v
19: Selector wire. Signals: 5v-disabled, grounded-enabled /5.5v
20: Ground connector on engine (signal ground) /Supplied with ground
21: /5.1v
22: EGR, temperature sensor /6.25v
23: Engine speed sensor /5.1v
24: /Gnd
25: /Gnd
 
frpe82 said:
Yeah... so I guess the stamp or PIC processors are out of the picture. We can not let the timing change up and down several times during an acceleration run, out of the EZK?s control.

A switch where you choose the desired advance/retard will work great.
Damn there goes my 75 shot auto retard function...

It would have been so simple too. Ground the pins through my WOT NX microswitch so I'd have an instant -6 degrees of timing just as the N2O hits.

Well guess I could switch it manually and just let the system learn that for track days.

Thanks
Renny
 
Renny_D said:
Damn there goes my 75 shot auto retard function...

It would have been so simple too. Ground the pins through my WOT NX microswitch so I'd have an instant -6 degrees of timing just as the N2O hits.

Well guess I could switch it manually and just let the system learn that for track days.

Thanks
Renny
No, don?t get me wrong here. That would work. Go ahead and use it. It won?t disturb the adaptability.

What will disturb the adaptability is if you install a device that always advance or retard the timing depending on boost, throttle input and load. Such a device would probably alter the timing several hundred times a day if you drive a lot, and that would definitely screw things up.
 
frpe82 said:
No, don?t get me wrong here. That would work. Go ahead and use it. It won?t disturb the adaptability.

What will disturb the adaptability is if you install a device that always advance or retard the timing depending on boost, throttle input and load. Such a device would probably alter the timing several hundred times a day if you drive a lot, and that would definitely screw things up.

Cool, one switch for race gas advance and a microswitch for juice retard... Now waiting for the tests to come back - I'm not much of a pathfinder..:oops:

Also on the pics of the pins is that from inside a dissassembled EZK? I'm too lazy to go under the dash right now..

Thanks
Renny
 
As some of you may have noticed, the measurements in post #44 indicates that only 18, 19 and 21 are probable "selector pins" since pin 25 seems to lack any output. It has to be tested when installed in the car though to verify that this is true.

Well, three pins can still give us adjustability between -6° to +12° in 3° increments.

JW240: Did you get hold of a timing light?
 
JW240 said:
the one that i found didnt work. Maybe i can go to my volvo shop this afternoon.
Hehe... Sounds good!

Look through all the combinations of pins. The pins 18, 19 and 21 seems to be the interesting ones at the moment, but also try to look at pin 24 and 25 as well just for fun.
 
Would more advance like this be nice for my NA lh2.4 with airbox mods, turbo exhaust, VX advanced 4 degrees and *higher flowing injectors (*not installed yet)?

I have a good timing light and can ground # 18 and/or 19. I guess I should establish baseline by reving it to 3k and watching the crank mark? Then I ground one or both and recheck the crank mark location @ 3k rpm?
 
stevemd said:
Would more advance like this be nice for my NA lh2.4 with airbox mods, turbo exhaust, VX advanced 4 degrees and *higher flowing injectors (*not installed yet)?

I have a good timing light and can ground # 18 and/or 19. I guess I should establish baseline by reving it to 3k and watching the crank mark? Then I ground one or both and recheck the crank mark location @ 3k rpm?
Yeah, you can do that. But pin 18 and 19 only gives -6?, -3? and +3?. I don?t know how much "head-room" there is on a NA engine, but more than +3? should be possible I think...

When using 3 or 4 pins in combination you can achieve even more advance if the engine can handle it.
 
Renny_D said:
Any news on this yet? Does it work? I'm very interested in the results.

Thanks
Renny
+1

My car is still inoperable at the moment so I can?t really try it out (and I don?t have a timing light either...).
 
Got bogged down with other stuff. I did take a look at the stock idle and 3k rpm timing. When revved to 3k, the pulley timing mark zoomed off the left of the scale. If I ground pins to get more timing advance, will that show up at idle, i.e., 15 degrees vs 12 stock or only when revved to 3k?
 
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stevemd said:
Got bogged down with other stuff. I did take a look at the stock idle and 3k rpm timing. When revved to 3k, the pulley timing mark zoomed off the right of the scale. If I ground pins to get more timing advance, will that show up at idle, i.e., 15 degrees vs 12 stock or only when revved to 3k?
I beleive that it is static advance and it will show up at all rpm?s, but I am not 100% sure it will show up at idle (emissions and MOT stuff has to be followed you know).

But it is probably easier to see the change just off idle, at 1000 or 2000 rpm or so. At 3000 it has moved so far that it often goes off the scale.

Could you try the combinations and look at the results at idle and a lower rpm like 1000 or 2000? It would be very nice to confirm all of this.
 
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