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Confirming dead blower in 240

DME

vague member
Joined
Jun 2, 2007
Location
DC burbs
Fan crapped out last week, perfectly time to coincide with a brutal cold snap. ('92 240)

No screeching, squealing, etc. It stopped and when I noticed I turned the fan off, back on, and it ran for about five seconds and slowed to a stop.

I've fiddled with the fuse, jumped it, etc. The best it will do is run for a few seconds and then slow to a stop again. If I restart the car after a couple of minutes it will repeat and stop.

To confirm: she's dead Jim, correct? :raincloud:

Dave
 
Unplug the red wire from the back of the fan switch connector and put power directly to it. If the blower motor runs fine doing that the problem in in the switch or resistor. If it doesn't, the motor itself is the problem.
 
Run your new blower fan for at least 5 minutes before you install it. This will: Show that it worked..:omg::nod: 2. Keep some of the brush-seating dust out of all the rest of the car when installed. Good luck on a thankless job.
 
I'll run power to it and see what's up.

My '84 is acting up and my GF's truck has a leaking water pump.

F**K ME RIGHT?
 
Be sure to buy new blower wheels and clips when you buy the motor. You will likely trash the blower wheels yanking them off the motor shafts.

Your blower motor likely looks like this.
 

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The resistor and it's wiring burn out too. Have fun digging them out. I recommend an OEM resistor and a VDO blower.
 
The resistor and it's wiring burn out too. Have fun digging them out. I recommend an OEM resistor and a VDO blower.

That's exactly what I did.

If you remove the dash, getting the resistor is easy to change.

I've done this job twice. Once leaving the dash in (first time), once taking it out (second time).

If I ever have to do it again, I'll take the dash out. Way less hard on my back.
 
If I ever have to do it again, I'll take the dash out. Way less hard on my back.

Yep dash out is the way to go and that tip about running the new motor for 5 mins before install is a great idea. It's a day's work but worth doing as the alternatives suck... no heat or paying someone to do it. Of course this crap always happens in cold weather.
 
Make sure the flange of the new motor is in the same spot as the old one. My first replacement motor had a flange that was a little off. I didn't notice and had to do the job twice.
 
That's exactly what I did.

If you remove the dash, getting the resistor is easy to change.

I've done this job twice. Once leaving the dash in (first time), once taking it out (second time).

If I ever have to do it again, I'll take the dash out. Way less hard on my back.

A) "Dash In" - Elf Technique (last time) :roll: :roll:

B) "Dash Out" - Non-Elf Technique (next time ) :nod:
 
Another idea, pick up a spare 1991-on heater box. Do your blower motor install inside the house at the kitchen table. Then, go out, pull the dash and get the old heater box pulled. Once it's removed, install the spare box with the 303 stainless steel heater hose fitting firewall port that STS Machining (77volvo245 here on TB) sells. Reassemble the dash. Take the old heater box and prep it for a new blower motor and resistor. Install it in the '84 when that car needs to have its blower motor replaced.

https://www.stsmachininginc.com/pro...rewall-port-303-stainless-steel-1975-1993-240

-J
 
X2 on just pull the dash top & bottom, plus the seats. Don't need to pull the steering wheel. Just all the stuff around it. Been there done that a few weeks ago. Not as bad as our Jeep Wrangler JK I did a while back if it makes you feel any better. That had to go to the bare firewall and the AC had to be re-charged Chrsyler engineer bastards. They all do it that way now so we-the-people can't work on them anymore.
 
Start with a 6 pack send wife out for more as depleted. I just did a blend door on an Expedition, was a far worse job, the center console giving me the most problems. I don't know how auto techs do it everyday, or maybe I'm just too old fat and lazy.
 
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