Caliper crossfit 1974 142 GL

Ive had calipers and Master Cylinder on backorder from Summit for 2 months now. Tired of waiting. I would like to know if there are any Calipers from later years or models that are a direct fit or indirect fit. I would also like to know if it would be possible to change over the main components for a total rebuild of the system? I kinda want know the easiest, cheapest route.

not hard to make 240 calipers fit

Are there instructionals somewhere and what about Master Cylinder? I cant find that either.

For the front you need solid disk calipers and drill the holes from 12mm to 1/2 inch so only a small change in size. You also need to adjust the brake pipes. Been a while since I last did it. Rear again you can use 240 or even 940 calipers. The fitting on the axle pipe needs changing.

For the master try CVI I have used a 240 servo and master on a RHD car. Need some fabrication and not sure how well it would fit on LHD

Where are you located?
Several vendors in the states that do only Volvos. Summit is good for paint, fluids, and small block Chevys, but I've never ordered Volvo hard parts from them.
For calipers, Hi Performance Auto in Torrance, CA used to have a rebuilder. You can PM Planetman, he is one of the owners and very helpful. They probably have or can get the master cylinder as well.
Same for VP Auto Parts in N. Charleston, SC. Mattias runs their stateside operations here and is very good to deal with. He gets parts out of Sweden, but also has a large warehouse with more common items.
Then their is IPD in Portland, OR. I don't know if they still list calipers, but they list the master cylinder.
Good luck.
Steve

Steve, thanks for the recommendation.

evolcire, welcome to Turbobricks.

Do you know if your front calipers are Girling or ATE?

There are several ways to tell if you can't find the "G" or "ATE" cast into the calipers.

The style of brake pad hardware and the angle of the upper bleeder can help identify what you have.

I normally have rebuilt Girling front calipers in stock as they more common than the ATE calipers.

I know I am more expensive than Summit, but my price is a little lower than VP.

http://hiperformanceautoservice.com/product_info.php?products_id=33

http://212.247.61.152/us/main.aspx?page=article&artno=684432

I can also supply a new brake master cylinder for $156.83. You have to reuse your brake fluid reservoir. The brake masters used to come with new reservoirs, but that stopped about 5 years ago. If you damage your reservoir while removing it, I do have NOS reservoirs as well as good used ones.

FYI, VP's brake master requires a mounting spacer as it is not the original style, while I am offering an aftermarket copy that doesn't require a spacer.

Wouldn't it be better to use vented rotors and their matching calipers?

Harlard said:

Wouldn't it be better to use vented rotors and their matching calipers?

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Ya but the 164 stuff is hard to find nowadays.

Redwood Chair said:

Ya but the 164 stuff is hard to find nowadays.

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I have a set that I'm probably not going to use. They could use a rebuild though.

In case you are interested, I do have a pair of rebuilt Girling front calipers for the 140/164/1800E in stock right now ready to be shipped.

Do you not have the original calipers or are you wanting to upgrade? It's rare that I come across a set that's too nasty to be cleaned up and serviced. Rebuild kits are available though I don't know what the quality is like.

Sorry took so long to reply.....I am located in Olympia WA. Somebody mentioned Summit is not a good place for this item. I have found that many parts suppliers use Cardone as their supplier. Summit does as well. The problem I dont want is buying the part taken from another vehicle just to find out when it gets to me that it is the same as mine...Old and in need of rebuilding. Someone mentioned rebuilding myself....ordered a kit and tried that. Were I stand now is I have pulled a junction box from a 240 as mine is need of a brake fail valve. Ordered that from a couple of people online to find out that they are not a fit. Whether or not they are Girling or Ate? I was told that the front calipers do not matter if they are Girling or Ate. I was told I could run Ate on the left and Girling on the right. Please let me know if that is misinformation. I was told the the rear do matter and have to be Girling.

I am also considering swapping the whole front axle with a 240. Salvage yard dude says a direct fit would be Volvo 240 75-90, Volvo 240 91 (non-ABS), Volvo 260 '75 (264), Volvo 260 '76-82. That would solve a ****load of future compatibility problems (for a while anyway). If any body has done this please let me know if it would be a difficult task. Maybe rate 1-5. Thanks in advance.

Planetman...could you give me a call @ 515-770-4956. My kids are in Downy right now and I think they are leaving out in a day or 2.

I replaced my '74 142 original Junction block with one from a '82 240. The flare end input for existing hardlines in the 142 fit the ports of the "new" junction. I have 2 extra ports that I will seal correctly when I figure out if the brakes work now (currently I have 2 bolts blocking the extra ports). Initial impression before bleeding was good. I actually have more resistance when stepping on the brakes than when I had the old port in and the brakes were bled so many times I lost count.

evolcire said:

I am also considering swapping the whole front axle with a 240. Salvage yard dude says a direct fit would be Volvo 240 75-90, Volvo 240 91 (non-ABS), Volvo 260 '75 (264), Volvo 260 '76-82. That would solve a ****load of future compatibility problems (for a while anyway). If any body has done this please let me know if it would be a difficult task. Maybe rate 1-5. Thanks in advance.

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Redwood Chair said:

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Ken is right, not something I would want to tackle.
The 140 series used the conventional A-arm suspension, whereas the 240 series changed to the modern McPherson strut suspension.
I suppose it could be done by cutting the inner fenders out of a junk 240, but I'm going to guess that the frame rails are in different locations. I've never thought about doing this, so never really looked.
Then, if I recall, the 240 front end is actually longer than a 140, so the sheetmetal & core support from the 74 140 wouldn't fit correctly.
A lot of the 74 140 series is similar to the early 240's from the cowl to the back, but even then there are still quite a few differences. About the only swap I would undertake from a 240 would be the breakerless ignition from a 75 240. And the door / trunk / window seals.
Steve

Thanks Steve, I was going to look into a swap because the dude at salvage yard looked it up and according to his data base he printed out the direct fit for me. That printout could very well be for the rear axle only.....it doesnt specify. Thanks for the analysis, it makes alot of sense. I have found a lot of parts that are slightly indirect or direct crossfits from later models and even different makes. My starter for example is a direct fit and it came from a 92 Mercedes. Its a tiny bit stronger but I like that start power. My interior came from an 85 Volvo 740 and the fuel pump from a 95 Volvo. I switched the fuel injection to carbureted with a kit from IPD, so I had to alter the fuel delivery but this allowed me to dump the accumulator. Now about brakes. It seems I have found 2 problems that were the cause of system failure. Called my dad (best mechanic ever for old cars) and he suggested I dismantle everything and start from scratch. Im going to list steps for future readers in the hopes they save time and frustration and dont have to throw money at "possible" causes. Step 1. Disconnect everything from the master cylinder (MC), bench bleed the MC in place by directing 2 clear tubes from the outlets back into the fill cap of reservoir. Fill the reservoir with brake fluid. Pump the brakes slowly and to the floor until there are no more air bubbles travelling to the top of the clear lines. Also cover the exposed fill cap as best you can because fluid will squirt out of the exposed fill cap. I used a liquid coffee creamer cap from a bottle in the fridge. It fit perfect over the fill cap and I drilled 2 holes the size of my tubes to hold them snug in place. If you pump the brakes for 20 or 30 times and you still see bubbles...your master cylinder is bad and you need to refurbish with a kit or replace. If there are no bubbles and you are sure its straight fluid returning to the fill cap on to step 2. Remove the tubes from the MC outlets and plug the holes with 2 screw, make sure the are the same threading and wrap screw threads with teflon tape. When there is no dripping of fluid and the screws are set back to pushing the brakes. Its better to have someone do this with you so you can observe the MC. The brakes should be depressed slowly until pressure stops you from further pushing, during this phase you are checking the tiny "weep hole" at the bottom of the MC near the mount. If fluid drips out, your seals are bad and either rebuild or replace MC. Also you are listening for noise inside booster. If you hear liquid bubbling past the diaphragm...thats bad. The fluid back flowed thru seals in MC and collected in the booster remove all that you can with turkey baster or syringe with tube attached, the latter is better for reaching around angles. If you managed to get past those steps with no leaks, on to Step 3. This step requires that you buy an female end connector to match the threads of your hard tube lines that leave the outlets from your MC. (You do put those on by the way before starting step 3 and plug them with anything to stop the drip. Next remove one of lines from any one of the ports on the junction box and connect it directly to the hard line coming from the MC. Follow that line to the caliper so you know which one you are testing. At this point, you need to decide if you want to test the isolated caliper or 2 at once. If you want to test the one make sure you know which circuit of the MC is supplying fluid to your test caliper. The 2 circuits are listed as primary and secondary in repair manuals. I personally would use the secondary because that is the furthest reach of the rod that comes from the booster to activate flow of fluid. If you find that it is weak during testing, you may have to adjust the depth of reach of the rod (according to manual). If you choose to test one caliper, you must reattach the second bleeder tube to empty back into the filler cap as in Step 1. Next you will bleed the caliper to be tested of all air in the line. Then you a ready to test the caliper. Put the car in neutral (with engine off) and push the car. When it starts to roll----Hit the brake. If it works continue the same procedure for each caliper. One thing I forgot to mention was before you start the last step remove the flexible brake lines and check the by pushing fluid thru them with a syringe, a stream of fluid should free flow thru the openings with no pressure exerted from the star point. If you think there is obstruction and the amount coming out is less than you reasonably expect.....its prolly bad or getting there soon. Just replace.