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Microsquirt 16v+t

Measuring time!



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I can either run a clutch and pressure plate, or use a button clutch like Tilton or some other, hard to decide. Kinda leaning towards clutch pack since I would have to get a pressure plate and clutch disk specially made anyways. Why not just redrill flywheel and run disk, which may offset my spline issue. The issue there was not enough splines inside the clutch hub, as can be seen. this is a 26 spline t56, and it appears viper makes a input shaft that is 3/4 inch longer. So I can replace that -OR, I can have the 350 bell housing machined down to offset the lack of reach on the input shaft, then bolt back on to trans adapter plate. Another person online did it using a m46 bell housing and adapter on a 242 that had a supercharged turbo compound thing going on. He just kept milling the bell housing till he got it right, so I recon this is the answer I needed. Thanks Rick Gentry for the info!
 
Something else a friend found.
The LT1 T56 input shaft is about 5.5" long from the face of the transmission (where it's bolted to the bell housing) to the end of the input shaft. The LS1 T56 input shaft (measured the same way) is about 6.5" long. (The Aftermarket T56 has an input shaft that is 7” from the face of the transmission to the end of the input shaft and doesn’t come with a bell housing; the Viper T56 has an input shaft that is 8.25” from the face of the transmission to the end of the input shaft and has no provision for a clutch fork pivot ball.)
 
I can either run a clutch and pressure plate, or use a button clutch like Tilton or some other, hard to decide. Kinda leaning towards clutch pack since I would have to get a pressure plate and clutch disk specially made anyways. Why not just redrill flywheel and run disk, which may offset my spline issue. The issue there was not enough splines inside the clutch hub, as can be seen. this is a 26 spline t56, and it appears viper makes a input shaft that is 3/4 inch longer. So I can replace that -OR, I can have the 350 bell housing machined down to offset the lack of reach on the input shaft, then bolt back on to trans adapter plate. Another person online did it using a m46 bell housing and adapter on a 242 that had a supercharged turbo compound thing going on. He just kept milling the bell housing till he got it right, so I recon this is the answer I needed. Thanks Rick Gentry for the info!

I forget who the tranny gods on TB are.. lemme do some digging
 
I saw the Savar turbo 242 , that was the one I was talking about. He machined his m46 bell housing down, which is an option. Not sure what Nathaninwa used as a bell housing, looks like maybe a 350 or lt1. The input shaft is lt1. I can press a pilot bearing into the flywheel, but the splines only going half way through the clutch disk is not satisfactory for me. Still doing research on the least expensive, best overall solution.
 
Got a Quarter Master Super Pro 7 1/4" Triple Disc Clutch 26 Spline NASCAR Mini clutch and a Hydraulic throw out bearing that Rick Gentry Had. Going to send the flywheel out with the clutch and get it machined when it comes in. On to Wilwood pedal and a master cylinder, line and fluid, various bolts. Then on to driveshaft..I am so anxious to see how this pans out.
 
Got a Quarter Master Super Pro 7 1/4" Triple Disc Clutch 26 Spline NASCAR Mini clutch and a Hydraulic throw out bearing that Rick Gentry Had. Going to send the flywheel out with the clutch and get it machined when it comes in. On to Wilwood pedal and a master cylinder, line and fluid, various bolts. Then on to driveshaft..I am so anxious to see how this pans out.

You rock man, keep it up. CHecking your updates brightens my day and gets me off my ass to work on my car. :zeeall:
 
Ha ha thanks Billymays, glad to help.You make it worth it to post ! Sometimes I too, find it difficult to throw cubic dollars and cubic labor, at this love hate relationship- that this car ,and I have. We have figured out, she is very jealous of my Young lady(fiance). Every time I make an improvement and go brag to her about it, she gets in the car, with no fail, and the car makes a liar out of me. Last time it was , "it spins through third!! Crap its awesome!!" she gets in the car, barely even chirps the rears.. I'm like whadda faah?! Got back home, trans was slipping. Its me. I just know it, lol.

That, too, was icing on the cake to go 6 speeds, not for the 6th gear but more for the reliability(6th will help with the 4.10 final tho). I Fully expect it to be slower accelerating, and brake more things in the rear, as it has been doing (so i will be granny shifting for a while). But I also like a great challenge, I think some here know that by now. The great challenge will be getting it to work, and then getting used to the 6 speed and getting more consistent with it. It will- however , get off the line a lot better , which it has been suffering from. And that's how we will break more things in the next chapter. Anti lag, full boost at 4600rpm, slide the foot off the clutch, and have a catcher bag in the rear. "is that a parachute on that wagon?" ," Nope , it's a "Used too much when it was new" bag!
 
Cosby, that sounds about right, that was the other option and maybe easier /cheaper in the long run. But this is what i have. Waste not, want not , my parents used to say!
 
eh boost by gear is more of a traction thing, if you still bring the house in 3rd, 3rd will suffer as a result
 
Just look at that!

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Now to the machine shop to give them my coins. I am taking my adapter down there too to get some material machined off it so that first splined clutch disc doesn't strip out.
 
Ok, here we go again second time posting is a charm, I'm sure I will copy this sh!t this time! :p


Much to discuss today, mainly clutch buttons and Volvo Sts Flywheels. I got all of my info from two sources, one is the manufacturer "Quarter Master" and the other was from the shop i bough the used clutch from , Perry Tripp, from Tripp Motorsports in NC. Phone 7044881986. Real nice guy, been doing clutches for 30 some odd years. Part was as advertised, no complaints. Just praise.

There are two different type discs in this clutch button setup. There are floater discs which are just machined metal plates that most machine shops can make, and these discs can be cleaned by bead blasting them carefully. Then there are the clutch discs which go in between the floater discs and vice versa. The first floater Disc is thicker than the rest and makes full contact with the face area of the flywheel.Its thickness is roundabouts .324 thous of an inch. I assume discard clearance is prob .319 or less. Not sure. The rest of the floater discs are new at .180 or higher and discard spec is around .176. The disc thickness is .107 new and discard is .95 from manufacturer, however some have good luck with going as far as .92 thous down.

The clutch basket is made of aluminum. The floater discs can be machined down, as long as the basket ring is machined accordingly. The floater discs can be "turned" or machined down by machine shops with a magnetic table preferably . One wuld want to machine them down if they were warped, for instance. Replacement is the best option, and for $435.17 you can get a new pressure plate and all the discs. I paid $311.16 for this used one to my door. So it's fully serviceable and rebuild able.

Mr Tripp made some interesting suggestions for fasteners and i will get to that in a second. First, and maybe the most important info, is the specs of the flywheel. I have a Sts flywheel with the machined crank teeth on it. Roughly 11 inches in diameter on the face area. I need 7.25 of that for the clutch button, and of course the trigger teeth. The plan is leave the trigger teeth (duh) , and step machine down the flywheel for the .107 to .105 thous RAISED FACE AREA. The .107 to .105 raised edge must fit TIGHTLY around the cage of the basket ring, and it must be concentric. Again (duh). I could opt to machine the basket down and just leave the flywheel flat, but then putting in new thicker discs would be a no go. So the flywheel will be machined down and drilled and threaded for the studs to hold the clutch button on. Quarter Master also sells the rebuild kit which comes with all the floaters and clutch discs and a new pressure plate. part number is 39609016 and its $435.17 .

Mr Tripp suggested a few fastener options. I will use studs and then have them tig welded to the back of the flywheel, as he suggests. I can then use steel lock nuts with a/n washers or I can use a aircraft nut called "jet-Nut" . He said nylocks will get hot and melt and come loose. For sure, this is a man with experience! The aircraft nuts are very light and strong.


I also got a new EGT probe in the mail today . My old one caught on a wrench and I ripped the wire out of the sleeve. They seem quite fragile. Or I am quite brutal, probably a bit of both.


I seem to be looking for excuses to start my car and pull it in and out of the garage just to keep spirits up. The excuse for the last couple of days was Garage Cleaning. Poor girl has sat out in the tree semen (pollen) for a few days and has a nice green hue to it. Serves that thing right, for breaking so many transmissions, and rear suspension parts.Ha . I made a page on Fb called "Karma Auto Chain" with a "pay it forward" type attitude. The premise of the page is to give free auto parts you don't need to someone who agrees to pay shipping, and also agrees to advertise a free part to the list for the same. And anyone who comes in can search their make, and tag people who may need that part. I feel like we all give a bit, and it would be kind of cool to dedicate a place for it to happen. i say this because looking at these pics of what i just sent off to the metal scrap yard, someone could have used this stuff. But , there aren't enough members to make it pop off , and without the members its just another crazy idea. Check this pile of junk out. Roughly 20 some turbos, 3 aw71's from last month. one block and all sorts of other stuff. The garage is cleaner.

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