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#1 |
Newbie
Join Date: Feb 2017
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![]() I have a 91 240 wagon and the window fuse keeps blowing. The windows still work if I jump the fuse. I checked for shorts but the wiring still looks good and checked the switches which looked good and were working. Before this happened they would roll up and down kinda slow so I'm kinda thinking the windows need a good cleaning and regreasing the tracks might help.
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#2 |
forced instruction
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: The Balkans, BiH
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![]() Is that a question?
__________________
Jetronic is romantic. - '94 965 - D̶2̶4̶T̶I̶C̶, then M̶5̶0̶B̶2̶5̶ now OM606.962. - '90 744 turbo 16 valve LPG - B204GT/M90 - trophy w̶i̶f̶e̶ car. - '89 764 B280F - Daily barge. - Various 740's, 940's, 960's and a couple of 760's. |
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#3 |
C&M '17 Survivor
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: The Hill, Shinshu Japan
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![]() Hit the tracks with a good dousing of some silicone spray and see if things improve.
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#4 |
Board Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: North Georgia Mountains
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![]() Wash your windows inside and out with glass cleaner and then apply "Rain X' both inside and outside.
This should lower the electrical current required to move the glass, and help your problem. |
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#5 |
Board Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
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![]() Lube the tracks, rails , whatever is inside the door. All pivot points. If you are adventurous you can open the motor and clean out all of the old lube and renew.
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#6 |
<Master Tech>
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: California
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![]() What works well to lube the tracks? Any how to keep it off the glass?
__________________
No Start Thread |
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#7 | |
...
Join Date: Jul 2004
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![]() Quote:
I was usually successful using the straw that comes with the can of silicon spray AND taking a piece of cardboard (cereal box type) and folding it over the window before spraying. Glass cleaner with alcohol as its primary ingredient is best for removing any overspray. Last edited by swedefiend; 10-10-2017 at 02:25 PM.. |
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#8 |
...
Join Date: Jul 2004
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#9 |
Can play the blues
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: S NJ, a suburb of Phila.
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![]() Also make sure you are using the good brass and copper fuses. The white metal fuses corrode and won't last long. They can even look good while being old and compromised.
__________________
Dave, 1982 242 turbo. 339k miles. Lots of good changes. 1993 245 Classic, 415k miles, enem V15. 5spd. IPD bars and chassis braces. Simons sport exhaust from Scandix. chipped ezk. Been a good road warrior. |
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#10 |
C&M '17 Survivor
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: The Hill, Shinshu Japan
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![]() Put the window(s) down, this leaves a gap or channel between the guides and the glass, and keeps the window fairly clean. Use the 'straw' to aim down into the gap, and don't be stingy with the silicone. Raise and lower window a few times to distribute, lather/rinse/repeat as necessary until smooth and rapid operation is achieved.
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#11 |
Board Member
Join Date: Apr 2009
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![]() Just take the door panel off and get in there.
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#12 |
Newbie
Join Date: Feb 2017
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![]() Awesome thanks guys I will try lubing the tracks and everything in the door. If that doesn't work I'll open up the motors but I know that's more involved.
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#13 |
Newbie
Join Date: Feb 2017
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![]() I finally had time to lube up my windows and it seemed yo help. I also noticed that my rear driver window bolts that hold the window bracket (brain fart on the proper name) were loose so I tightened em up. I was able to roll each window up and down without the fuse blowing. They also went up and down much faster. I used to roll them up and down all at the same time which I'm sure added much more draw on the system so I'll do em one at a time now.
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