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Old 07-26-2015, 12:11 PM   #26
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Drive here and we'll change it
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I regretfully agree with Jack.
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make k-jet great again.
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Old 07-26-2015, 12:31 PM   #27
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Drive here and I'll change it for you free of charge
Sweet thanks!
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Old 07-26-2015, 12:35 PM   #28
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If your trip goes anything like my daughter's you will have proposed to your gf at a gorgeous overlook in Yellowstone, then get tired of becoming a road hazard on the way out and get towed to Bailey's in Riverton. Only you folks won't arrive on a Friday night and have to hole up for the weekend and then some, in a hotel room. I checked the work done at Bailey's (all told about $250 back in July 09) and all was well. Tank pump is still humming today. And we are enjoying the grandchildren.

The tank pump check is now part of the oil change routine, and that (on another car) has already netted one pump change before the symptoms. And yes, I have a paper clip in the glove box.
My girlfriends parents are driving their new expedition next to us on the way home. Worst case scenario they tow it..

I was in their car the other day and noticed they had a pack of 250 paper clips, nice! I can use those to test the pumps right? Wrong, they're coated in a rubber insulator it freaked me out at first because neither pump made a noise. I resorted to using a flimsy key ring that worked great.
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Old 07-26-2015, 12:45 PM   #29
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Worst case scenario they tow it..
Worse still would be the Ford quitting on you and the whole group piled up in your 240 trailing behind a tow rig.
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Old 07-26-2015, 01:44 PM   #30
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Fortuneately the intank pump is same for a big variet of European cars from the 70s and 80s...Saabs, Volvos, Xratties, doubtless more. And only a few bucks;
Economy
PERFORMANCE ELECTRIC Part # P06K
Fuel Pump and Strainer Kit; Fuel Pump and Strainer Set One of our most popular parts
In-Tank Electric Fuel Pump. Tank Flange Seal/O-Ring Not Included.; Base Model

Part Image
$16.58
TYC Part # 152029 {#AM1613350C}
Feed Pump

* Stocked in outlying warehouse--shipping delayed up to 1 business day
$18.35
PRECISE Part # 402P8778
Electric
In-Tank Low Pressure Pump; Use with High Pressure Externally Mounted Pump

$19.89
ALFA ROMEO SPIDER (1982 - 1994)
BMW 320I (1978 - 1979)
BUICK CENTURY (1982 - 1983)
BUICK SKYHAWK (1983 - 1984)
BUICK SKYLARK (1982 - 1983)
CADILLAC CALAIS (1975 - 1976)
CADILLAC COMMERCIAL CHASSIS (1975 - 1979)
CADILLAC DEVILLE (1975 - 1979)
CADILLAC ELDORADO (1975 - 1980)
CADILLAC FLEETWOOD (1975 - 1979)
CADILLAC SEVILLE (1976 - 1980)
CHEVROLET CAMARO (1982 - 1983)
CHEVROLET CAVALIER (1983 - 1984)
CHEVROLET CELEBRITY (1982 - 1983)
CHEVROLET CITATION (1982 - 1983)
CHEVROLET MONZA (1975 - 1977)
CHEVROLET VEGA (1971 - 1977)
FORD AEROSTAR 1986
FORD E-150 (1988 - 1991)
FORD E-250 (1986 - 1991)
FORD E-350 (1986 - 1991)
FORD F-150 (1985 - 1989)
FORD F-250 (1985 - 1989)
FORD F-350 (1987 - 1989)
FORD F53 1988
FORD LTD (1984 - 1986)
FORD MUSTANG 1984
FORD THUNDERBIRD 1984
HONDA ACCORD (1986 - 1989)
HONDA PRELUDE (1988 - 1990)
MAZDA B2200 (1987 - 1993)
MAZDA B2600 (1987 - 1988)
MERCURY COUGAR 1984
MERCURY MARQUIS (1984 - 1986)
OLDSMOBILE CUTLASS CIERA (1982 - 1984)
OLDSMOBILE FIRENZA 1984
OLDSMOBILE OMEGA (1982 - 1983)
OLDSMOBILE STARFIRE (1976 - 1977)
PONTIAC 6000 1982
PONTIAC ASTRE (1975 - 1977)
PONTIAC FIREBIRD (1982 - 1983)
PONTIAC J2000 1983
PONTIAC PHOENIX 1982
PONTIAC SUNBIRD (1976 - 1977)
SAAB 900 (1983 - 1989)
SAAB 9000 (1987 - 1988)
VOLVO 240 (1990 - 1993)
VOLVO 242 (1975 - 1983)
VOLVO 244 (1975 - 1989)
VOLVO 245 (1975 - 1989)
VOLVO 262 (1976 - 1981)
VOLVO 264 (1976 - 1982)
VOLVO 265 (1976 - 1981)
VOLVO 740 (1985 - 1990)
VOLVO 745 1985
VOLVO 760 (1983 - 1987)
VOLVO 940 (1991 - 1993)
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Old 07-26-2015, 07:16 PM   #31
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Wow one pump fits all of those vehicles?

They're very cheap too. If I'm going to replace it I want to put the highest quality pump in there that I can, as well as all new fuel lines.
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Old 07-26-2015, 09:43 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by 93Volvo240 View Post
Wow one pump fits all of those vehicles?

They're very cheap too. If I'm going to replace it I want to put the highest quality pump in there that I can, as well as all new fuel lines.
Kid, in this day and age its impossible to say what is what.. Even alleged "OEM" Volvo stuff in the official Blue Box means diddly squat...there is a good chance even the cheapest is the same thing as the most expensive.

US Import law says the "country of ORIGIN" must be on the package. This does not apply elsewhere ---I have been importing stuff now for 52 years, really---so the PART could be from Kirghistan or Bhutan or Eastern Vulgaria....or from where ever..
But the BOX, or even THE STICKER saying Made in Germany may have been made in Germany..

You of course have the Haynes Service manual with you, right?
Get the pump stick it in and next time is easier...

Notice sumpin, grasshopper?
When you do stupid kid stuff, I will flip you poo about that.
When you need good advice cause you're in trouble, I will give you good advice.

"from each according to their sneeds
to each according to their abilities.."

Now if we only know what a sneed was.

Last edited by John V, outside agitator; 07-27-2015 at 04:15 PM..
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Old 07-27-2015, 01:49 AM   #33
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^ Thank you for the legitimate help/answers and not giving me some bullJohnV answer I can't comprehend no I do not have a Haynes. I bought a ****ty chilton that covers most fwd cars and like 1 rwd model..pretty much useless. Glad I've had decent internet connection so I can research most of the things I need to.
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Old 07-27-2015, 01:52 AM   #34
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Just drove from Gardiner MT to Riverton WY without issue. Slightly more than 250 miles, mountain driving included.

Anyone in the area happen to have a spare main pump? Ha. I'd like another spare before I get the chance to replace the tank pump.
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Old 07-27-2015, 01:23 PM   #35
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I think you'll be ok for now until you get home and have the time and space to change the in-tank pump.

I bought my '90 245 DD over 3 years ago and haven't had any fuel issues, but I changed the main pump and filter about a year ago anyway; all while neglecting to even check the in-tank until a month ago when I found out it was completely dead after noticing the main pump whining on a hot day with an 1/8th tank or less.

So I was most likely running the car on the main pump only for 3+ years of daily driving with no noticeable issues. No difference now after replacing other than a whirling sound of the in-tank as proof of its functioning.
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Old 07-27-2015, 01:36 PM   #36
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Don't some people just replace the main with a beefier pump and delete the in-tank altogether?
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Old 07-27-2015, 02:05 PM   #37
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Don't some people just replace the main with a beefier pump and delete the in-tank altogether?
Delete the main and replace the in-tank with something up to the task by itself. Like most new cars have.

I'm not sure why they used two pumps back then. Pumps with enough capacity for the pressure and volume were probably just too bulky back then. Not any more.
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Old 07-27-2015, 02:15 PM   #38
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Don't some people just replace the main with a beefier pump and delete the in-tank altogether?
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Delete the main and replace the in-tank with something up to the task by itself. Like most new cars have.

I'm not sure why they used two pumps back then. Pumps with enough capacity for the pressure and volume were probably just too bulky back then. Not any more.

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Old 07-27-2015, 03:04 PM   #39
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Originally Posted by JohnMc View Post
Delete the main and replace the in-tank with something up to the task by itself. Like most new cars have.

I'm not sure why they used two pumps back then. Pumps with enough capacity for the pressure and volume were probably just too bulky back then. Not any more.
Whoop. Yeah, that sounds right.
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Old 07-27-2015, 03:23 PM   #40
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You might be able to find an in-tank pump at an advance or autozone, I believe they had one in stock when mine was bad approx $30.
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Old 07-27-2015, 03:29 PM   #41
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I'll pick up an in tank pump if I can find one in Denver, Colorado. I might as well buy another main pump because an in tank pump won't do much good if the main fails, lol. I can hear the main pump dying every time it's running.
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Old 07-27-2015, 03:52 PM   #42
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You should triple check that inline tank pump ground wire, it's only screwed into the trunk sheet metal with a most likely very rusty Phillips head screw and a very rusty ring connector.
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Old 07-27-2015, 04:01 PM   #43
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How on earth do you have enough service in Yellowstone to post all this??? I've never had worse service when I was in Yellowstone... which is what contributed to making it my most favorite place in the country. I don't think I was able to receive a text for 4 or 5 days.

Anyway, good luck to you... You should probably get yourself a test light and nice multimeter to travel with you. I always keep a small tool set and little supplies in my beaters for times like this. It's saved me in college more times than I can remember.
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Old 07-27-2015, 04:03 PM   #44
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You should triple check that inline tank pump ground wire, it's only screwed into the trunk sheet metal with a most likely very rusty Phillips head screw and a very rusty ring connector.
Any idea where this is one a 245? I'm sure I could search for it but my car is full of luggage. Knowing where it is will let me find it quickly when (if) we arrive in Denver.
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Old 07-27-2015, 04:12 PM   #45
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Originally Posted by JohnMc View Post
Delete the main and replace the in-tank with something up to the task by itself. Like most new cars have.

I'm not sure why they used two pumps back then. Pumps with enough capacity for the pressure and volume were probably just too bulky back then. Not any more.
No John its because the designers actually for once thought about acess for servicve of the pump...Ever heard of rust? If main pump fails, car stops.. Lay on back, swap pump...Car goes..
Main pump intank, pump fails...40-70 times the pain in butt getting maybe whole tank out, getting sender/pump cover off, blah blah...

To voluntarily make critical component access more annoy when there is no compelling reason to is nothing short of madness. (I like driving cars down roads where there is occasionally a lotta egg to tennis ball sized rock ricocheting all over the place...in such case any pump---or anything---under the car critical to getting home is nuts...so it gets moved to a safe EXTERNAL location..

And the bigger volume pumps equivalent to the Bosch 044 are just a bit fatter in diameter than the normal 8v Volvo pump I think 60mm dia vs 52mm, 196mm LOA vs 180 something..The big deal was BIG 14mm ID inlet...that's what got me excited...Oh baby oh baby...

They big volume pumps, were there, just back then those poor dumb engineers didn't have aces to the millions of pages of Forum wisdom, so they didn't know that little 100-150 hp cars needed 225l/hr pumps for daily driving like is now a well establish FACT...

I can post official drawings of 400bhp turbo Ford rally cars showing right there scrawny little 150 l/hr pumps....Oh the huge manatee!..
Thank god we have the collective wisdom of the world's forumz.
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Old 07-27-2015, 04:13 PM   #46
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Crush it.
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Old 07-27-2015, 04:47 PM   #47
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No John its because the designers actually for once thought about acess for servicve of the pump...Ever heard of rust? If main pump fails, car stops.. Lay on back, swap pump...Car goes..
Main pump intank, pump fails...40-70 times the pain in butt getting maybe whole tank out, getting sender/pump cover off, blah blah...
But in this situation, you have two pumps that could fail, not one. Just as a thought experiment: would adding a third pump that also has to work to make the car run properly make the car more reliable, or less reliable?
Quote:

To voluntarily make critical component access more annoy when there is no compelling reason to is nothing short of madness. (I like driving cars down roads where there is occasionally a lotta egg to tennis ball sized rock ricocheting all over the place...in such case any pump---or anything---under the car critical to getting home is nuts...so it gets moved to a safe EXTERNAL location..
The compelling reason is because there needs to be a pump in the tank for optimal effectiveness. Otherwise they'd have just not bothered with the intank pump. Well, that's how all those D-Jet cars worked, perhaps the K-Jets too??? How'd that happen? Anyhoo...

Assuming there needs to be a pump in the tank to work best, and also assuming that the fewer gizmos that need to all be working at the same time to make the car go is better, then having one pump in the tank would be better than having one pump in the tank and one pump under the car. Also, the pump in the tank is protected from tennis ball sized rocks. Well, as well as all the gas is I guess.
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And the bigger volume pumps equivalent to the Bosch 044 are just a bit fatter in diameter than the normal 8v Volvo pump I think 60mm dia vs 52mm, 196mm LOA vs 180 something..The big deal was BIG 14mm ID inlet...that's what got me excited...Oh baby oh baby...

They big volume pumps, were there, just back then those poor dumb engineers didn't have aces to the millions of pages of Forum wisdom, so they didn't know that little 100-150 hp cars needed 225l/hr pumps for daily driving like is now a well establish FACT...
I wasn't referring to 800GPH spare Atlas rocket parts, just a pump of the size needed to (in an OEM engineer's mind) adequately supply the car with an appropriate amount of fuel when it was half worn out 20 years later. I was supposing that the physical size of a smallish OEM volume pump back then was just a bit bulky for them to contemplate fitting through a small gas tank bung, so they just left it outside, and put a cute little low pressure high volume lift pump in the tank because it was so much smaller. These days, both the bungs (on newer cars) have gotten bigger (why not), and the physical size of a pump that can deliver all the fuel the engine needs has gotten smaller, so thy're really no larger than those old lift pumps were.
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I can post official drawings of 400bhp turbo Ford rally cars showing right there scrawny little 150 l/hr pumps....Oh the huge manatee!..
I like cool drawings. Do eeeeet!
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Thank god we have the collective wisdom of the world's forumz.
Hear! Hear!
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Old 07-27-2015, 08:29 PM   #48
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Sputtered to a stop again an hour from Denver. The fuel gauge is where it was at when it stalled the first time. Around 3/4.
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Old 07-27-2015, 08:45 PM   #49
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The compelling reason is because there needs to be a pump in the tank for optimal effectiveness. Otherwise they'd have just not bothered with the intank pump. Well, that's how all those D-Jet cars worked, perhaps the K-Jets too??? How'd that happen?

Here's my take: They thought the external pump alone would work when originally designed that way, and when it didn't, adding a pump in the tank (and using a pre-existing part) was the lowest-impact way to get things working. Their mistake was sucking the fuel out of the top of the tank. D-jet cars, if I am not mistaken, had the feed line coming out of the side of the tank, relatively low.

Living in CO 30 years ago, I remember when many relatively new Volvos were vapor-locking at high altitude.
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Old 07-27-2015, 08:55 PM   #50
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Maybe it is just when the fuel gets hot and vapor locks..
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