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Old 10-12-2017, 08:39 PM   #1
durk80
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Default hall sensor help needed

I will be replacing the hall effect sensor in my 1988 244 after doing the head gasket in my 91'. I have found bits and pieces of information and a few pictures , but not enough to ensure my confidence of having all of the necessary tools, and the correct procedure so I don't render the car completely useless.

I've read that it is riveted in (why?), and requires drilling out, but not too far down for fear of drilling through aluminum. I also remember reading something about epoxying the sensor to the body after the rivets are drilled out.





A few questions I have:
How do you get the circular metal 'hall' off to access the sensor itself?

Is it possible to do with the distributor still in the engine?

These were the best sources I was able to find.

http://forums.turbobricks.com/showth...ht=hall+effect

https://www.volvoclub.org.uk/faq/Ele...llorRPMSensors

http://www.hallsensors.de/Hall-Vane.htm
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Old 10-12-2017, 09:08 PM   #2
lummert
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After reading your questions I feel you should seek someone to help you to do this job. But on the other hand you may be able to find an instruction sheet on installing the parts.
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Old 10-12-2017, 09:16 PM   #3
aendrody
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Why?
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Old 10-14-2017, 07:51 PM   #4
durk80
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aendrody View Post
Why?
Thank you for asking!

After the car overheated, and that unfortunate accident was fixed, the problem I had before was more pronounced, especially when it is at or near 100% humidity. The car will start fine, and then when you press the gas after letting it warm up and in gear, it will not accelerate. It won't stall, but rather seems like the more you press the accelerator, the more it sounds like you have hit a rev limiter, (it reminds me of not pressing in the reverse safety switch when backing up on a four-wheeler.) More like a "blaah" sound than a "wing-wing-wing", if that helps.


The voltage test on the hall sensor was 1/10 of a volt off, even after replacing the wire to the connector. Not sure if that makes a difference, but when the engine got extra crispy, I was presuming the wires did as well, also the socket sags a bit as well.

I recently replaced the maf sensor, while it helped for a bit, I am experiencing the same problem.

I am totally open to other suggestions, like the crappy Cry Box. or something else. I don't want to fire the parts cannon, but that feels like what I'm doing.

Help!
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Old 10-14-2017, 08:57 PM   #5
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Sorry, I just realized that you're working on a 240. Maybe this will help:

http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread?t=248514
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Old 10-15-2017, 02:15 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lummert View Post
Thanks Lummert, that was the clearest explanation provided! I have the model without circlips, so it looks like I'll be taking the distributor out for repair, or replacement.

While the side to side movement of the distributor shaft seems good, when I gently lift up on the hall window cage, there is much more up and down movement that I think should not be there.
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