tomasss
former PRVert
- Joined
- Oct 13, 2008
- Location
- Sydney, Australia
Hi guys,
I have a problem with my 760GLE, aw71, 88, equipped with lpg - the automatic trans is shifting down too early, (because) engine lacks power.
List of things I have changed:
Ignition:
new sparks,
spark wires,
distributor cap,
distributor rotor,
both knock sensors,
checked coil - both primary and secondary impedance ok,
cleaned connection between body and power stage,
tested with another ignition ecu,
all connectors cleaned.
Fuel system:
new bosch o2 sensor,
new fuel pressure regulator,
new coolant temperature sensor,
new thermostat,
tested with another fuel ecu,
tested with another air mass sensor.
Intake:
Throttle body cleaned,
idle valve cleaned, also tested with another one,
cleaned crank case ventilation,
TPS sensor work fine,
throttle and kickdown cable are adjusted correctly,
checked for vacuum leaks.
And of course all filters, oil, ....
Valves has been adjusted.
I have installed led diode to the O2 test port - and it toggles (so mixture is correct, not too lean or rich).
Idle is smooth, no disturbances or surging.
But the diagnostic diode I have installed toggles twice when rpm/s are over 2000, and this is code for engine knocking. But engine is NOT knocking. At 2500 and higher, it doesn't toggles anymore, but as soon as I return to 2000+-300, it starts again.
My opinion is that the transmission shift down too early because it "feels" engine has no more power at the higher gear, but I don't now too much about transmissions.
This prematurely shifting is both on lpg and gasoline.
My last chance is, that the fuel injectors are leaking (when running on lpg, the injectors are disconnected, but the fuel pumps are still running - to keep the system pressurized). But can it create a sound like engine knocking?
I have a problem with my 760GLE, aw71, 88, equipped with lpg - the automatic trans is shifting down too early, (because) engine lacks power.
List of things I have changed:
Ignition:
new sparks,
spark wires,
distributor cap,
distributor rotor,
both knock sensors,
checked coil - both primary and secondary impedance ok,
cleaned connection between body and power stage,
tested with another ignition ecu,
all connectors cleaned.
Fuel system:
new bosch o2 sensor,
new fuel pressure regulator,
new coolant temperature sensor,
new thermostat,
tested with another fuel ecu,
tested with another air mass sensor.
Intake:
Throttle body cleaned,
idle valve cleaned, also tested with another one,
cleaned crank case ventilation,
TPS sensor work fine,
throttle and kickdown cable are adjusted correctly,
checked for vacuum leaks.
And of course all filters, oil, ....
Valves has been adjusted.
I have installed led diode to the O2 test port - and it toggles (so mixture is correct, not too lean or rich).
Idle is smooth, no disturbances or surging.
But the diagnostic diode I have installed toggles twice when rpm/s are over 2000, and this is code for engine knocking. But engine is NOT knocking. At 2500 and higher, it doesn't toggles anymore, but as soon as I return to 2000+-300, it starts again.
My opinion is that the transmission shift down too early because it "feels" engine has no more power at the higher gear, but I don't now too much about transmissions.
This prematurely shifting is both on lpg and gasoline.
My last chance is, that the fuel injectors are leaking (when running on lpg, the injectors are disconnected, but the fuel pumps are still running - to keep the system pressurized). But can it create a sound like engine knocking?