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Old 04-16-2018, 02:03 PM   #1
EivlEvo
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Default Third Motor Mount... Still RF mount?

Squad... things are progressing nicely with this Volvo (245 +T) as I keep adding more power though, I see my motor mounts distressing.

1. I'm going to swap my RSI (or whatever) mounts over but
2. Is the right fender wall and front exhaust runner still considered the "optimum" spot?
3. Am I intending to prevent the engine "rolling" or moving fore/aft?

Any further wisdom of note or is it still just weld and repurpose some old suspension crap?
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Old 04-16-2018, 02:06 PM   #2
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serch newb

https://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=203227

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Old 04-16-2018, 02:06 PM   #3
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I used a ratchet strap, it's easy and it seems to work just fine.

Yo are stopping the motor from rotating in reaction to the twist it's putting into the driveshaft. This will force the top of the motor to move toward the right. Thus a ratchet strap needs to run from the left side strut are over to the head (the further up - away from the crank/driveshaft/driveline center as reasonably possible for best leverage.

A welded up old suspension arm would certainly look more baller.
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Old 04-16-2018, 02:53 PM   #4
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I used a rear suspension upper arm tied to each valve cover in the rallycar.
Prior to installing them a set of V-6 engine mounts lasted one practice session.
Never needed to replace engine mounts since. Even after multiple rolls.
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Old 04-16-2018, 03:16 PM   #5
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I used a ratchet strap, it's easy and it seems to work just fine.
.
How did you secure it to the engine? I was thinking of those stock engine loops that come at the top for lifting the engine out.
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Old 04-16-2018, 03:19 PM   #6
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That is exactly what I used. Hooked into the left side strut tower where there are some gaps between it and the inner fender, over to the front engine lift loop.

I broke motor mounts easily before, basically hit boost in first gear and one or both would be broken. OEM diesel mounts, broken, some poly mounts that made the car buzz and rattle - broken. Then, for years, a plain aftermarket diesel mount on one side, some random Dodge pickup mount on the other, and a $5 ratchet strap and not a single issue. This is with about 350 whp and a T5 Mustang trans with a high enough 1st gear to get into boost in 1st.
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Old 04-16-2018, 03:49 PM   #7
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Hmm.
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Old 04-16-2018, 03:50 PM   #8
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interesting, how does this affect the car... less rocking I assume?
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Old 04-16-2018, 03:57 PM   #9
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Very little effect on the car as a whole, just no more broken motor mounts.

I 'pretensioned' the ratchet strap a bit, so it did firm the drivetrain slop up some, less rotational wiggle in it between power on and power off (decel).
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Old 04-16-2018, 04:36 PM   #10
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The way I have it. No problems so far either and I drive like an animal.

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Old 04-16-2018, 07:55 PM   #11
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Different engine; same principle -- rear upper suspension arm repurposed into 3rd motor mount/torque arm. Connects driver's side head to frame rail.

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Old 04-17-2018, 03:29 PM   #12
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I hadn't really planned to do this, but all these good, simple solutions make me realize, I should do this!
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Old 04-17-2018, 09:43 PM   #13
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My OG question was should I still run this on the right side. But it seems that a lot of people run them on the intake side. The intake side would need the ratchet strap because it's holding it back. The exhaust side would need to be solid or have some sort of compression system... Odd.
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Old 04-17-2018, 09:45 PM   #14
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You recall the thread pitch or size of the bolts you've got into the block there?
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Old 04-17-2018, 11:25 PM   #15
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I would just imitate this idea because it looks like the easiest and cleanest solution. I might even do this myself.
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Old 04-17-2018, 11:44 PM   #16
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I don't know whose car that is with the double clevis deal, but I'd like to hear how vibratey that is. My guess would be a lot.
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Old 04-18-2018, 01:00 AM   #17
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You recall the thread pitch or size of the bolts you've got into the block there?
Those are M8X1.25 fasteners.
I'd be sure to use a bushing between the engine and car. Bzzzzz

That solution looks to be using some puny clevis pins.
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Old 04-18-2018, 09:17 AM   #18
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Those are M8X1.25 fasteners.
I'd be sure to use a bushing between the engine and car. Bzzzzz

That solution looks to be using some puny clevis pins.
PUny clevis pins in shear, They aren't going anywhere. But Buzzzz for sure. That's why I am staying away from the Jag/Yoshi mounts, I couldn't stand the NVH transmission in the couple cars that I rode in with them.

Stock mounts and ratchet strap ftw
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Old 04-18-2018, 11:08 AM   #19
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I found all sorts of interior trim that I didn't know was loose when I had the poly engine mounts.

Never got around to fixing any of that because they ripped apart so quickly.

No vibration added by the ratchet strap at all.
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Old 04-18-2018, 11:13 AM   #20
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I might mess around with making something like that clevis, but with a strap of some sort. Basically just like a limiting strap for suspension. I like the idea of the ratchet strap not introducing any extra vibes, but I just can't reconcile having a ratchet strap in my engine bay.
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Old 04-18-2018, 11:16 AM   #21
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The further up the engine you mount it, the less force it will impart. It's all leverage, the distance from the crank/driveshaft centerline.

Which is why the 240 mounts are so weak to begin with. They're tucked in tight next to the engine, which amplifies the torque. Plus they're at weird awkward angles, so they are in shear and not compression under stress.
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Old 04-18-2018, 11:17 AM   #22
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I've thought on and off about hacking up a suspension arm and welding in a piece to the bay for some more stability.
The latest one I like is how Mr. Brown did it (re-used air pump/smog pump holes with a plate and ties to a bracket his strut brace) but my turbo plumbing gets in the way.

Will continue taking notes.
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Old 04-20-2018, 11:52 AM   #23
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Maybe the clevis design using a generic engine torque damper off ebay?
Attached Images
File Type: jpg damper.jpg (45.0 KB, 125 views)
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Old 04-20-2018, 01:06 PM   #24
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Exhaust side "push" using '76 B21F air pump bracket on the head, plate welded to the chassis, an old motor mount, and some thread rod + spherical joint.



Intake side "pull" using square tubing, and old torque rod, and some plate welded together and bolted to the intake. Worked well, rattled some bolts out of the turbo that held the wastegate actuator on

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Old 04-20-2018, 01:10 PM   #25
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Quote:
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Maybe the clevis design using a generic engine torque damper off ebay?
You may as well just get motor mounts from Yoshifab. That looks rattly.
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