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Canadian 1984 244 DL B21A/B6304 project log.

I like the more finished look of having all the covers on the engine, besides it's super easy on these engines to just pull the cover. Nothing like a Honda where you gotta pull all the drive belts and crank pulley just to get the timing cover off.

Yeah this. It's a 10 second job to pull the two T30's and the 10 (or 12)mm front cover bolt.

Looks half put together apart like that.

Jordan
 
It'll never win any prizes at a car show, I'm ok with that :). I still have all the parts, if I ever change my mind.

I tackled the driveshaft spacer today, and I think I've got the right dimensions, so I'll whip it up on the lathe at work tomorrow. Fingers crossed it fits!
I had a leaky banjo at the rack so I got some new sealing washers. I'll find out tomorrow morning if it worked, lol.
 
Spacer success.

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It's machined to fit the male driveshaft flange on one side, and the female transmission flange on the other, so it's perfectly centered. I love having access to the metal shop at work...not to mention working with an engineer who is also a huge car guy, lol.

As it turns out though, since I was worried that a spacer might not be the best way (it isn't, I know, but just hold on...) to do it, I googled them. It seems the off-road guys use them all the time when they lift their trucks. There are even a bunch of off-the-shelf toyota ones, which I kinda wished I had known before I went to the effort of making one, lol. I could have bought it and had it done weeks ago. Hindsight is 20/20 I guess.

Tomorrow, I may wire in the transmission controller. Depends on how motivated I get.

(Yes, the car is DISGUSTING underneath. That's what 20 years of Krown oil undercoating looks like. Not a stitch of rust anywhere though :))
 
Started wiring in the transmission controller the other day...and had a button failure. It peeved me off so I went looking for other options. Stopped by the junkyard today and grabbed a cruise control stalk from a 2005 Impreza, which is the same as the one in my DD 07 Forester. I really like how it works, so I decided to try and modify it to control my shifts.

Turns out that it's pretty easy. I had to re-solder one connection inside the switch, since the pull-towards had to run through some diodes, which prevented it from making continuity when pulled, but that's it. I removed any other action, so it can only work in pull-towards for upshift and push-down for downshift, to prevent accidental shifts, but I'm not worried. I have never had any issues with it in my DD (and I love my cruise control, lol).

I should be able to mount it right below the wheel where my right hand can access it easily.

LEqCcvlo_o.jpg
 
Exhaust is done! It's the 3" under-axle I built for the B21+T, so it might be a bit too drone-y with the straight-through cans. I might replace the resonator with a baffled one if that's the case. As far as the blue-grey puff, I'm pretty sure that's just fuel. I hope, anyway.

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I had an issue with the gearbox not shifting properly, so I dropped the pan to see if I had remembered to hook up the manual shuttle valve to the comb...and I hadn't. Now it's all back together and everything shifts great! The full line pressure shifts are firm, but hey...you only live once :). This weekend I'll start reassembling the front end and put it back down on the ground.
 
Me too! I'm heading to lobster country for a couple weeks soon, on a much-needed vacation, so it'll be sept before I can finish...but I plan on getting to it ASAP when I get back.

...and for anyone on the 'pro-timing belt cover' side, I broke down and installed the top cover last night. At least this way I won't get my sleeves caught in the belt, lol.
 
What coolant system for this beast? I believe Homer said he is running a NA 940 radiator on his 5 cylinder.... and of course he has a FMIC and condenser with working AC as well.

I'm a bit surprised the auto trans requires a controller? I don't know squat about the autotragics used behind the Whiteblocks..... I thought the 960 versions were just a big boy AW trans with mechanical controls and OD solenoid like the AW71s. Did you pull a trans from an S90 or late 960 that requires the controller?

Thought about your build the other day..... my son told me somebody in Charlotte NC was parting a 98 S90 which has exactly 26K miles on it. Grandma car which got wrecked.....I think they wanted $500 for the entire power train with those miles; seems like quite a value for a RWD swap.
 
I'm going to see how far the stock 1984 B21A radiator takes me, with a 940 e-fan. There won't be anything in front of it though, since I've removed the intercooler (and I don't have A/C), so I THINK it might be ok. If it gets too hot, I'll find an upgrade of some sort.

All the North American 960s had electronically controlled automatics, and I didn't want to use the stock TCU, since I wouldn't be able to feed it the signals it needs to function. The Poi's paddle-shift thread gave me a good reason to learn something new :).

$500 for a swap with low miles is super cheap! I paid $600 CAD for my engine/transmission from a junkyard, and it had waaaaaaaaaaaaaaay more miles on it than that.
 
You might be fine, especially sans turbo, with the stocker B21 radiator. The E-fan should keep it under control; since the ECU sends the signals to the relay module on the 9 E-fan, you can either use your in radiator WAHLER temp switch (if so equipped) or use what I did, the SAAB 900 T in the suction (return) hose and let that create the ground path for your relay control on the fan. Don't forget to use a fusible link on the power feed to the E-fan relay..... they pull quite a few amps.

Your whiteblock automatic control comments could explain why most of the retro's on TB are using a manual gearbox of some flavor.......
 
You might be fine, especially sans turbo, with the stocker B21 radiator. The E-fan should keep it under control; since the ECU sends the signals to the relay module on the 9 E-fan, you can either use your in radiator WAHLER temp switch (if so equipped) or use what I did, the SAAB 900 T in the suction (return) hose and let that create the ground path for your relay control on the fan. Don't forget to use a fusible link on the power feed to the E-fan relay..... they pull quite a few amps.
Yep, all good :). I was running the e-fan on my B21 too, since I hate the sound of a mechanical fan, lol. I made a T for the lower hose and have a two speed BMW fan switch in it.

Your whiteblock automatic control comments could explain why most of the retro's on TB are using a manual gearbox of some flavor.......
Their loss, hehe ;).
I like autos, but I am also getting very lazy in my old age, lol.
 
I bought my beat to hell S90 donor car for $100. Still running. 170k but thats ok, less miles than my 740 has now!

I'm going to use the S90 radiator. It'll be easier to line up the rad hose than trying to use the original smaller rad thats in the car.
 
I've considered the 960/S90 rad, but it's a good 4" taller than the stocker and would require cutting/re-inforcing the lower rad crossmember. Then there'd be 4 inches of rad that wasn't getting airflow, so it feels wasteful. I may suck it up and go with the 92+ 940 non-turbo rad, even though it's not as thick as my current shortie. I was running a zero-pressure/waterless (straight green stuff, no mix) system on the redblock, with success, but the fan cycled a lot. I'd like a bigger rad to help maintain consistency, but if it's thinner than my current one, not sure the extra width will help. The constant rising/falling temps played havoc with my fuel mixtures, lol.
 
The only reason I'm going to run it is because it should be a drop in to my 740. Otherwise i'd run whats in there, the original all metal rad.
 
1988 Corvette rad installed, shroud fabricated, and lower hose done. I believe a stock 960 upper hose will work well, so I have to grab one of those this week.

I went this way instead of the 'traditional' NA 940 rad, because even though it's wider than the stock 240, it's a narrower core (15/16" vs. 1.25"). The vette one is 1.25" and even wider than the 940 rad. It goes from frame rail to frame rail :). The inlet and outlets are even the same size as the stock 240. I believe I read this in an archived thread where the Ford 5.0 swap was discussed, so I jumped on it.


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Is that a Vette E-fan as well? Curious how well it fits..... I’ll need something when my white block resides in my 242. Appreciate more details on figment.
 
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