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Volvo b230ft starting problem

FarAway

New member
Joined
Dec 31, 2016
Location
Estonia, P?rnu
Hi,

Another starting problem thread, but i have readed almost all thats related to this issue.

Car is 240, but i installed 740 91y 2.4lh engine.
Rebuilded the engine in winter so almost everything in the engine is brand new. So the car crank fine. Old engine has distributor with hall sensor but new one have RPM sensor and takes the signal there.

Changed distributor, cab, sparking plugs, sparking plug wires, junkyard power stage or ignition modul? and rpm sensor. Test another ignition coil, looked over grounds etc.
Rpm sensor shows only 178ohms but need to at least 240ohms. https://www.upload.ee/image/6999242/rpm.jpg

From the ignition coil comes out +12v when key on.
OBD shows only 1-2-3 code(engine coolent temp). Fuel relay to click and petrol pump to some noise when key on. Sparking plugs is wet.
Can i test rpm sensor differently or buy new one?
 
It sounds like you've already pinned it as a bad crank position sensor (or RPM sensor as you say), so I would at least start with replacing that.

Stick a magnet on your extension when you go to remove or install the bolt, so that you don't drop it.
 
Crank position sensor is a right bugger and can look good but be faulty.
Cheap enough to replace with a known good one.
Also ... as always with LH2.4 ... the fuel pump relay in the relay tray.
 
are you using the correct flywheel for LH2.4? if it i not a 60-2-flywheel (58 drilled holes in the edge) you will not be able to get the engine started.
If you do have the 60-2 flywheel , is it actually installed correctly? The flywheel needs to be installed in the correctly clocked position, there are 8 bolts so there are 8 positions in which the flywheel can be mounted... only 1 position is correct. If it is mounted in the wrong position the sparks and injection events will happen at the wrong times. so, even when you do have spark, fuel and compression the engine will not run.
 
are you using the correct flywheel for LH2.4? if it i not a 60-2-flywheel (58 drilled holes in the edge) you will not be able to get the engine started.
If you do have the 60-2 flywheel , is it actually installed correctly? The flywheel needs to be installed in the correctly clocked position, there are 8 bolts so there are 8 positions in which the flywheel can be mounted... only 1 position is correct. If it is mounted in the wrong position the sparks and injection events will happen at the wrong times. so, even when you do have spark, fuel and compression the engine will not run.


Thank you all for answering.
Yes im using right flywheel with drilled holes in it. But im not sure if i installed it back right way. If i remove starter, can i see flywheel signs from there?
Ordered new rpm sensor and inspect the flywheel when i get new sensor from the shop.
 
Thank you all for answering.
Yes im using right flywheel with drilled holes in it. But im not sure if i installed it back right way. If i remove starter, can i see flywheel signs from there?
Ordered new rpm sensor and inspect the flywheel when i get new sensor from the shop.

I like the method of going to TDC , then turn crank 180 degrees, then the gap in the wheel should be 180 degrees away from the starter hole! It is much easier to pull the flywheel cover than a starter!
 
Backprobe the powerstage pin 5 grey wire with an LED test light to see if the EZK is sending a 5v square wave signal to the EZK.

Test light coil negative and check for blinking.


Edit:

Ok so what year 240 is this? The biggest mistake people make is connecting the ignition switch incorrectly so that the computers do NOT have power during cranking. Revisit your wiring!
 
Last edited:
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