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1971 142S "I'll keep this one"

I agree with all of the above, except I would never trade a set of twin SU's for a crappy Weber conversion. Get the SU's properly rebuilt & sync'd, and they will perfume 100X better than a Weber.
Now DCOE's and the accompanying engine work, different story. But a stock engine, twin SU's (or D-jet) over Weber any day!
Steve


Right! No weber crap. In Sweden we run single Zenith Stromberg CD175. Standard carb for "non sport" B20s. I think twin carbs was standard in US cars.
 
Agreed +1. A B18 or B20 running properly tuned SUs is a wonderful thing.

I didn't know that bit about the perfume though; Brits smell better than Italians?

LOL!!! Didn't spell check that one, did I?
It will be corrected...….

Right! No weber crap. In Sweden we run single Zenith Stromberg CD175. Standard carb for "non sport" B20s. I think twin carbs was standard in US cars.

Didn't catch that you are Sweden. But you are correct, twin Stromberg's or SU's were standard here until D-Jet was introduced.

Steve
 
This dream is now dead. Gonna have to take a major loss on it and get one after I get out of college.
Wish I could keep it, and I wish my chest didn't hurt putting a nail in this coffin.
 
Welp, bringing this back up.

Ordered a T5 clutch disk, new KYB shocks, pilot bearing, carb rebuild kits, rear main seal update kit, and an oil pan gasket.

I have 3 weeks to make this car ready to take back to school.

God help me.
 
I'm putting this list here for my own records as well as a reference for the **** that needs to be done in the next three weeks

T5 Swap: shortened driveshaft, trans tunnel install/tweaking, speedo cable?
Gaskets: Rear main seal, oil pan gasket
Fuel: fuel filter, fuel line bungs front and rear, carbs rebuilt, air filter installed
Water: E-fan installed, thermostat installed, efan wiring designed and installed with saab coolant T, new heater lines, fresh coolant, new lower rad hose
Lube: Oil change, wheel bearings re-packed, diff lube flushed, T5 filled
Electrical: crescent lights re-wired, Hella 500's installed and wired to headlights, head unit installed, tachometer wired and installed, speedometer cluster tightened
Exhaust: finish side pipe and re-hang system
Brakes: verify rear brakes operational, re-bleed, re-plumb vacuum lines with check valve
 
Engine came out. After getting it off the mounts and everything disconnected, I realized that I needed to remove the shifter. A quick google search revealed that the large hex shape is a big-ass nut that holds the shifter.

Now to restrain myself from putting my b230f in it ;-)

My awesome brother (vwbusman69) running the hoist while I swear and pull.
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Now to find a powerwasher :grrr:
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SOOO

I pulled the oil pan to replace the gasket and clean it and discovered this:
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I pulled all the rod caps and all the main caps. The bearings don't look bad, they just dont look stellar. The thrusts are showing copper, and there is very minor imperfections on the crank and bearings that can be picked up with a fingernail.

So yeah. I have 3 weeks to either finish the b230f swap crack pipe dream, or find another, better B20.
 
That sucks!
Good luck finding a running B20 in the next 3 weeks. I doubt you can pull of the OHC swap & be sorted that quickly, but good luck with that as well!!!
You don't know any machine shops in your area that can get you in & out?
If so, bearings from IPD are on sale, take about 3 days to get. Pistons from VP, if they're in stock, would be to you in 2 days tops.
If you find a 74 or 75 8-bolt B20, I have a brand new set of STD pistons sitting in my shop. We could discuss pricing, but it would be cheaper than from a vendor.
Steve
 
Looks like fun.

I can see why you want 240 JAH's B20. Try to get the whole thing, since you might as well convert it over to FI, that way the car is ready for when you decide to install a B230F or FT underhood. Might even make life easy if you decide to grab the B21FT from the guy in NJ and rebuild that for the 142.
 
Don't try to swap the B230F upright.
If you prefer to +T this it's obligated.
Complicate too

I won't remember why the B20 has to go.
If the only problem is the carb and ignition site , I prefer to LH2.4 a B20. Runs pretty well with LH2.4 :-)
Good luck, Kay
("New" and used B20 in stock for good luck, B230 too)
 
If the engine wasn't making noise and had good oil pressure before I would just fire in a fresh set of bearings and call it good.

-10000 on what everyone is saying about SUs though, I've driven my 144 off and on for 10 years and I've NEVER gotten those damn things to idle worth a ****. Pure garbage.
 
If the engine wasn't making noise and had good oil pressure before I would just fire in a fresh set of bearings and call it good.

-10000 on what everyone is saying about SUs though, I've driven my 144 off and on for 10 years and I've NEVER gotten those damn things to idle worth a ****. Pure garbage.

I had good luck for a while with mine after I got the throttle shafts re-bushed. The problem with them is you need to **** with them all the time. You just do.
 
Yeah, I always had to do 'seasonal' fiddling with the SU's. Whenever the idle got too uneven, I'd just pull out the UNISYN and balance the airflow F&R, then twiddle around with the mixtures and lift pins. Then reset the idle speed. more of an art than a science, but eventually I got pretty good at it.

Then I stuck on DCOE's and haven't needed to do much to them at all for a decade or so.
 
I had good luck for a while with mine after I got the throttle shafts re-bushed. The problem with them is you need to **** with them all the time. You just do.

Mine are HIF so the throttle shafts should be ok and they don't seem to leak. If you tune them up they're fine for a few days.
 
Bottom end is torqued and back together. New HD oil pump, updated RMS, thoroughly lubed the mains and rods, and pseudo-primed the oil pump.
Friday will be oil pan re-install and torque, flywheel install, PP and clutch alignment, and final install of the B230FT bellhousing for the T5. Driveline guy is charging me $425 :wtf::wtf: to shorted the driveshaft, put new U joints in, add a mustang slip yoke, and balance the whole thing.

I ordered a 10" Efan (750cfm), a 2.5" bosh tach, and a relay (for the fan) from Summit so I can wire it up to work with the Saab 900 coolant T.
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