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Broken block at alignment pin and bolt hole

B

Balzich

New member
Joined
Sep 9, 2014
Location
Portland area
I just picked up a B230FT engine from California recently. Upon closer inspection, I found that the block is broken at the rear, so one of the transmission bolts and the alignment pin are unusable. The broken area is opposite the starter on the exhaust side. Otherwise the engine looks in good shape.

I have called around local machine shops to machine and weld a piece of steel in place. The costs would be really high, mostly due to complete machining of the block afterwards. Apparently, the only proper way to weld cast is to heat the item (whole block) to glowing red before welding.

What are your opinions, can I get away with one less bolt? I could JB Weld a pin back in place.

Saab
 
You mean one of the bell housing bolts and dowels don't you?

The transmission bolts to the bell housing. The bell hsg bolts to the engine block.
 
Missing one, I wouldn't worry about it. Getting the transmission properly aligned is going to be more important. But on the other, and slightly more sarcastic side, your transmission will be easier to align and install :)

But this is just the redneck in me talking.
 
I have brazed the starter mount ear back onto a couple Chevy blocks with no failures. Well braze on a gob of bronze, then drill and tap the hole.
It will be crucial for tranny life for you to ensure bellhousing concentricity with the crank.
 
745 TurboGreasel said:
I have brazed the starter mount ear back onto a couple Chevy blocks with no failures. Well braze on a gob of bronze, then drill and tap the hole.
It will be crucial for tranny life for you to ensure bellhousing concentricity with the crank.
Click to expand...

To see if I understand what you are describing: using a bronze brazing rod, you build up a gob around the damaged area. Once that cools you drill and tap the hole?

Are there any key specifics when you do this? Does the area to be brazed need to be heated in addition to the brazing heat, i.e. is local heat enough? Slow cool?

To be clear, I am not planning on tackling this myself, just want to be versed enough to call around...
 
And just use it with one bolt less?

I'd look at using bronze for brazing or nickel for welding something back on. Cheap if you have the tools and know the people, expensive when you have to go to a shop (i can understand that). Too bad.
 
Without the alignment dowel, you're asking for lots of trouble.
It's not just that you'll be missing a bellhousing bolt, but you have no way to make sure the tranny is exactly lined up. A single millimeter of misalignment is disaster for the tranny.
Get a different block.
 
Balzich said:
To see if I understand what you are describing: using a bronze brazing rod, you build up a gob around the damaged area. Once that cools you drill and tap the hole?

Are there any key specifics when you do this? Does the area to be brazed need to be heated in addition to the brazing heat, i.e. is local heat enough? Slow cool?

To be clear, I am not planning on tackling this myself, just want to be versed enough to call around...
Click to expand...
You pretty much got it, you have to file the mounting flange surface flat as well.
I use a lot of brake cleaner getting it clean. I don't actually know what rod it was, my old bodyman friend said 'use this' so I did. I did one of them with he motor in the truck, but it was a '68 so not much stuff in the way. IIRC the best shop estimate I got was like $800 if I brought them the bare block.
 
I do not have the piece that broke off. After looking at the damage again, there is enough meat left on the block to jbweld the alignment pin in place. This will be enough to bide my time till I can find another block.

Thanks all for the feedback.
 
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