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Old 12-11-2015, 01:39 PM   #26
itlksez
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An update on this project:

I reached a major milestone last night with the B230 engine actually sitting in the Willys frame under its own support! Only 2 week's worth of pattern making and fab work to make this engine cradle and motor mounts.



Front:



Rear:



Passenger's side:



Driver's side:



Here's what I ended up with for ground clearance.



Stay tuned... I don't know when I'll have the time or resources to pull it off, but my plan is to go full-on Volvo with this thing.
My plan is to use a 1031 axle from a late 240 in the rear with wheel adapters to go from 5x108 to 5x4.5".
Up front, if all the parts fit like I think they should, I'm going to use the 1031 rear from the 740 engine donor, cut the tubes to accept inner Cs from a late-model Jeep Dana 30, inner short shaft from a wide-track CJ7 (or possibly Wrangler), inner long shaft from a narrow track CJ Dana 30, and the outer hub assemblies from a late model D30. This will give me very close width to the rear, using Volvo axles front and rear. All parts (aside from the main housing/tubes) will be off-the-shelf stuff. (I'm not a fan of custom axle shafts.)

I've decided not to go forward with the turbo at this point. I have enough going on without the added complexity of adding turbo to a non-turbo engine. I'm making sure all of the turbo parts fit as I go, so if I ever find a donor car with a turbo, it won't be much of a headache to swap it over.

Bye for now.
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Old 12-11-2015, 02:07 PM   #27
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Looks good to me.
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Old 12-11-2015, 02:48 PM   #28
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I like it. Hope you make an oil pan shield though, looks like it's the lowest point right now.
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Old 12-11-2015, 02:48 PM   #29
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Wow.
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Old 12-11-2015, 03:02 PM   #30
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I like it. Hope you make an oil pan shield though, looks like it's the lowest point right now.
I am planning on running a plate under it, but it is actually up really high. The stock Willys engine stuck down at least two inches more than that, and after many years of racing and wheeling one, I never had a bashed pan. The front axle fits under there and protects it really well.

The frame is sitting about 8-12" lower than it will sit when it's complete, so it looks a lot lower than what it will finish out at.
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Old 12-11-2015, 11:00 PM   #31
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continued awesome-ness.
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Old 01-05-2016, 03:21 PM   #32
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I'll throw in a few random pics of eye-candy, although not much of this stage is Volvo-related.
I had to make a crossmember between the frame rails to tie the cage outriggers together. The hole in the passenger's side is for the exhaust to pass through, the hole on the pass side is for fuel and wiring. I'm making a 2-piece front driveshaft, utilizing Volvo shafts and the Volvo carrier bearing in the crossmember. (Bearing height location was trial and error.) T-case and trans mounts were next.

I'm packing this thing back into storage for a while. I need to switch my shop back into a wood shop and get some projects done. I'll post back with any updates as they come. Thanks for following!























First gear - It might need a little tweaking, but not bad for a stab in the dark.

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Old 01-06-2016, 10:40 PM   #33
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Your fabrication skills and attention to detail are off the hook!

The progress looks great. I'm excited to see more.
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Past Cars:
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1987 Volvo 740 Sedan ~180k - sold
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Old 02-09-2017, 04:54 PM   #34
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I've been working on this some more. I'll catch you guys up to speed.
Anyone recognize the radius arm bushing?





I built the radius arms out of 1/8" plate, and I'm using Toyota truck axles with Cherokee coil springs.



Here's the ride height I'm shooting for. The spring was just sitting in there for size.

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Old 02-09-2017, 05:07 PM   #35
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That radius arm bushing sure looks like an 850/S70 delta link bushing...

Amazing fab work on this project.
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Old 02-10-2017, 02:56 PM   #36
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Your fabrication work is excellent.

How are you cutting the steel?
Shear? Plasma? Saw? Burn Table?

That is some beautiful welding....Stick or Mig?

I can see a lot more skill than just being a hobbyist metal worker.
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Old 02-10-2017, 03:44 PM   #37
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I've got a serious woody going on about your welds, all are incredibly even and have correct penetration. Outstanding fab work. If I ever need your help, I might just make the trek to you. My welding and fab skills aren't nearly as pretty.
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Old 02-10-2017, 03:45 PM   #38
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Subscribed. This is so cool
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Old 02-10-2017, 06:15 PM   #39
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That radius arm bushing sure looks like an 850/S70 delta link bushing...

Amazing fab work on this project.
Thanks! And you are correct! It's unbelievable that these massive bushings were used in the rear of a front wheel drive car.

I parted (scrapped) out a '93 850 and I cut the arms and link mounts out of the unibody to re-use in this project. I bought new bushings for my '95 daily driver years ago, and I was never able to get them out, so I had brand new ones to use in this project. (I used the old ones for mock-up) I love how the forces are put against the mount, not the through-bolt.


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Old 02-10-2017, 06:20 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coalminer View Post
Your fabrication work is excellent.

How are you cutting the steel?
Shear? Plasma? Saw? Burn Table?

That is some beautiful welding....Stick or Mig?

I can see a lot more skill than just being a hobbyist metal worker.
I wish! I'm working with a Harbor freight abrasive chop saw, 3 grinders (braided wire cup, cutoff wheel, and grinder/flapwheel), an oxy/propane torch, an assortment of hole saws with a cordless drill, and a Thermal arc 210 MIG welder.

I'm just a woodworker, doing this in my woodshop.
I may have held a job or two in steel shops in the past....
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Old 02-10-2017, 06:22 PM   #41
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Originally Posted by KeizerBrickGuy View Post
I've got a serious woody going on about your welds, all are incredibly even and have correct penetration. Outstanding fab work. If I ever need your help, I might just make the trek to you. My welding and fab skills aren't nearly as pretty.
Thanks!
Come on down! ....Or over? Up?
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Old 02-10-2017, 08:24 PM   #42
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Thanks!
Come on down! ....Or over? Up?
Over, from the Willamette Valley in Oregon. lol
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Old 02-10-2017, 08:39 PM   #43
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I wish! I'm working with a Harbor freight abrasive chop saw, 3 grinders (braided wire cup, cutoff wheel, and grinder/flapwheel), an oxy/propane torch, an assortment of hole saws with a cordless drill, and a Thermal arc 210 MIG welder.

I'm just a woodworker, doing this in my woodshop.
I may have held a job or two in steel shops in the past....
That is even more impressive then. You got skills.
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Old 02-11-2017, 12:19 AM   #44
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Old 02-11-2017, 12:51 AM   #45
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Man that is some nice work.
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Old 02-11-2017, 10:59 AM   #46
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What caught my eye was that this amazing work was being done in a wood working shop.
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Old 02-11-2017, 06:51 PM   #47
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Good to see some progress on this
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Old 02-11-2017, 10:12 PM   #48
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Neat project, great work so far!
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Old 02-15-2017, 02:58 PM   #49
itlksez
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I've been busy. I'm gonna take a big jump in the steps here and just review what all I've done.

- I couldn't get everything to fit up there where I had initially planned, so I took a drastic measure and took the radius arms out and cut a chunk out of them and capped one of the through-holes.

- I rebuilt the steering arms to accept a behind-the-axle tie rod.

- I bent the tie rod to clear everything but the frame.

- I notched and rebuilt the frame to accept the tie rod.

This will open up a ton of room in front of the axle for the track bar, sway bar and shocks.

- And I also fit the front 2-pc driveshaft. More Volvo parts!! (I know the joints aren't phased properly at the spline connection. Nothing is permanent yet.)







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Old 03-22-2017, 11:08 PM   #50
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I figure I'll update this thread with anything directly Volvo related.

I have a few days in between jobs; I figured I'd tackle something that was bugging me. Ever since I dropped this engine in place, I've been concerned about the exhaust dumping directly onto the front driveshaft. My original plan was to use a turbo manifold (minus the turbo), but it's ugly and would have horrible flow properties. I like the design of the factory 4-to-2-to-1 pipes.

I did a little cut/bend/weld on the original design and got it to snake around the driveshaft and through my crossmember. Here it is, from mock-up to final piece. Not my finest work; I've nicknamed it "Lumpy McLumptube". I tried to utilize the factory mandrel bends, but it just ended up lumpy and odd. I should have just started with straight tubes.

I'm still hoping to find a cheap donor car with a turbo, then this won't even be used. A simple 90° bend off of the turbo will replace this. But for now....









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