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Canadian 1984 244 DL B21A/B6304 project log.

It's actually working great! I'll look up a part number and post it up :).

[edit]The number I posted has apparently been superseded by 049919501. Same thing, just different number.
The part number shows this:
water-temperature-sensor-0-125-049919501-5214-p[ekm]299x230[ekm].png


The stock Volvo spade connector slips right onto the button head connection, but it's likely they've changed all the sensors to a proper male/female connection now.
 
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Cool, glad to help :).

Tomorrow is my last drive in the car until spring, so I modified one of the generic Tunerstudio dashboards to use while tuning. The font is Volvo Broad, and it's as close as I could get to the R-sport yellow, without having the proper pantone code. The Volvo logo is the datalogging on/off button, and the center lights up green when operating :).

hm8scfp7_o.jpg
 
...and now it's time for storage, sigh :(.
I went on a 5-hour round trip to visit a buddy at his old-school junkyard, and check out a 73 Porsche 911/930 that I'm going to be helping him with next year. I'm super stoked at how trouble-free the drive was, considering I haven't really shaken down the swap yet. I need to swap to a chambered resonator or rear muffler to kill some of the drone during cruise, but I love the sound/feel of the B6304 in a 244. Honestly, all these cars should have come with a 6 of some sort, IMO.

4A568hPs_o.jpg


I REALLY love the sound of these engines, btw. I'm very tempted to boost it, but I don't know if I will just yet.
 
The big bit of info that surprised me after the long drive is that I think my rear end is a 4.10. I counted teeth and came up with 3.73:1 (IIRC), but my cruising RPMs at 100kph are ~2300 with 205/55-16s. The math says 4.10 at that point. I'm cool with that, because it makes for great acceleration, but I just wonder how I could have been so wrong. I can't remember what car I pulled it from, but I think it was the same non-turbo 940 I got the AW-71L from. If it is from the same car, it's definitely a 4.10.
 
Oh how badly I want to do that swap on a 240.
Awesome job. One of my favorite builds on here.
 
I think next summer will be the year of road trips and car shows, since I missed out on all of them this year. I really don't know what direction I'm going to go next. I have been a turbo guy since the mid-90s, but I also love the sound of open ITB/carbs.
 
The big bit of info that surprised me after the long drive is that I think my rear end is a 4.10. I counted teeth and came up with 3.73:1 (IIRC), but my cruising RPMs at 100kph are ~2300 with 205/55-16s. The math says 4.10 at that point. I'm cool with that, because it makes for great acceleration, but I just wonder how I could have been so wrong. I can't remember what car I pulled it from, but I think it was the same non-turbo 940 I got the AW-71L from. If it is from the same car, it's definitely a 4.10.

Yup, nearly all the North American NA late 9's came with the 4.10 final gearing. Sorry I didn't keep up.... did you throw a complete G80 into your 2 series rearend, including setting up the pinion? I've never heard of anyone modifying a 9 series 1041 rear end to fit a 240!
 
Reading your post made me think that I must have forgotten something...and I did, oops. I swapped my original 1030 rear end for a 1031 from an 89-ish 240. Then I did the G80 swap from a 9-series car, but swapped my 1031 ring gear over. I feel kinda silly that I forgot that part...I guess it's been a long project, lol.

When I swapped the ring gear over, I swear I checked the part numbers and counted the teeth, but maybe I did it wrong. I've tried a bunch of different final drive vs. RPM calculators, busted out the pen and paper, and even tried using an abacus...but the tach output from the megasquirt doesn't lie I guess. It's a hoot for NA driving though, so I'm kinda glad I accidentally ended up with it :).
 
SO LONG as you swapped the ring gear to match the pinion in your 89 gearing to the G80, would will be golden on pinion depth..... the backlash setting which came later with your G80 and probably new shims beneath those bearings preloaded them properly, all is well.

Every DANA gear in the Volvo's that I've seen (maybe a dozen now) all have the tooth count stamped right on the ring. I've got the 4.10 in my DD behind a AW71, and while I'm glad to have the 10% torque increase, I won't be happy about the droning on the interstate. Does your AISIN gearbox have a locking OD? That would be the last move I'd make on the DD, to find a 95 model AW71L and in conjunction with the 4.10 would put me right where the stocker 3.73 gearing would have been.
 
Yep, I swapped the original 1031 ring gear on to the G80, and double checked the tolerances before buttoning it up. That's why I'm so confused, to be honest, because I even used the stampings on the side of the gear...and it looked like a 3.73. Unless my math is way off, I definitely missed something. My tire size is 205/55-16, with a rolling diameter of 24.9", and with a 3.73 and .68-ish lockup, I get 21xx RPM. With a 4.10 and the same data, I get 23xx rpm, which is bang on.

Of course, these are all done with online calculators or math that assumes my rolling diameter is 100% accurate. Maybe it's shorter than the math says, due to tire wear, 32psi instead of 42psi, etc.
 
Yep...I'm an idiot.
I was basing the math on a .70 4th/OD, but when I dug up the 960 greenbook, it turns out to be a 0.75...which would line all the math up perfectly with a 3.73.

I'm glad it's winter, I guess I need a break :p.
 
I may not be working on the car this winter...but I am certainly buying parts :).
Stopped at the local scrappers the other day to grab some miscellaneous stuff to flog on ebay for a few extra dollars...to fund the coming boost :).
 
I may not be working on the car this winter...but I am certainly buying parts :).
Stopped at the local scrappers the other day to grab some miscellaneous stuff to flog on ebay for a few extra dollars...to fund the coming boost :).

But... but... itb's....?
 
Thanks! :)
I did sort it out. I ended up adding a 3.3k ohm resistor between the VR sensor wires. I tried a 4.9k, and it worked, but I was able to bring the value down to 3300 and still have the same results. Now it starts up clean when cold and hot :).
 
Cool...I'll admit I'm a MS n00b so forgive me if this is an obvious question, but where do you have the VR sensor mounted on the whiteblock? Are you referring to the OE cam position sensor?
 
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