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240 Kjet not putting fuel to Injectors

82GLT

82GLT

Member
Joined
Jun 17, 2016
Location
Gresham Oregon
What's up all, Ive been in the process of rebuilding my car.
Even though my car hasn't been running due the rebuild my pump relay burned out :finger:
now I got that all replaced and I'm to the point now where its pumping fuel past the filter on the firewall and into the kjet system but idk where its going from there because its not making it to the injectors any ideas where it could be going or how to find out? :help:
 
Could be a clogged fuel filter not letting enough through? How long did the car sit? Kjet hates to sit w/out running.. worth swapping it out for $20 anyways.
 
Everything operating on a K-jet is doing so because of the fuel pressure. Drive a K-jet car you need the ability to test the fuel pressure.

The fuel distributor regulates the pressure down from about 90psi to 70psi. The control pressure regulator regulates the pressure back to the distributor up from about 20psi cold to 45psi warm. The frequency valve regulates pressure to the injectors based on the O2 sensor signal. The injectors won't open unless they are getting adequate pressure to overcome the spring tension.

Did that answer the question?

http://www.turbobricks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=289775
 
Last edited:
take off one of the injectors and see if they are getting fuel to them

if they are then not enough pressure
- weak main pump
or
- bad fuel dizzy
or
-bad wur
 
Fuel Filter is getting adequate flow as is the line after the filter its gushing so I think its okay as of now. about a year


Bricktothefuture said:
Could be a clogged fuel filter not letting enough through? How long did the car sit? Kjet hates to sit w/out running.. worth swapping it out for $20 anyways.
Click to expand...
 
So on the top of the kjet system the 4 lines that go to the injectors and theres no fuel getting to the outlets that feed the injectors, I'm assuming the pump could be going bad since it fried the relay? but its gushing fuel past the filter and the line that feeds the kjet block but once its reaches the black block (kjet) stops.

Jack said:
take off one of the injectors and see if they are getting fuel to them

if they are then not enough pressure
- weak main pump
or
- bad fuel dizzy
or
-bad wur
Click to expand...
 
Car sat for about a year maybe a little over, it ran perfectly when I shut it off besides the rod knock and its circulating gas cause the lines smell fresh unless year old gas smells like new? the distributor is the kjet system or the piece mounted on the side of the engine block?
injectors have no pressure then because no fuel is even getting to them it stops at the black block and doesn't continue in any way

TestPoint said:
Everything operating on a K-jet is doing so because of the fuel pressure. Drive a K-jet car you need the ability to test the fuel pressure.

The fuel distributor regulates the pressure down from about 90psi to 70psi. The control pressure regulator regulates the pressure back to the distributor up from about 20psi cold to 45psi warm. The frequency valve regulates pressure to the injectors based on the O2 sensor signal. The injectors won't open unless they are getting adequate pressure to overcome the spring tension.

Did that answer the question?

http://www.turbobricks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=289775
Click to expand...
 
82GLT said:
. . . gushing fuel past the filter and the line that feeds the kjet block but once its reaches the black block (kjet) stops.
Click to expand...

The first thing encountered past the fuel filter is the pressure regulator within the fuel distributor (black block) . If you don't have more that 70psi input to it you are not going to get anything out.

Couldn't find a conversion table from 'gushing' to psi.

Pictures in the linked thread.
 
so the link that was sent will get me a reading? if its too low what could be wrong? again it ran when I shut it off about a year ago so could it have gone bad without being used or just getting plugged from tarnish and gunky old gas?
oh very funny If I had a pressure reader i'd tell you :rofl:

TestPoint said:
The first thing encountered past the fuel filter is the pressure regulator within the fuel distributor (black block) . If you don't have more that 70psi input to it you are not going to get anything out.

Couldn't find a conversion table from 'gushing' to psi.
Click to expand...
 
Nothing comes out of the fuel injectors unless the pressure is high enough to open the nozzle. So, when you tested the injectors. Did you lift the airflow sensor plate up so the fuel distributor will send fuel to the injectors and open the nozzles? Be sure to put the injector/injectors inside a fuel safe clear container so you can watch the spray pattern. Be very careful this is atomized fuel and do not smoke or have any source of ignition nearby.
 
The top of the kjet left of the fuel distributor is the plunger when I tried push it down, it only goes down about half an inch and I tried pushing on it to send fuel to injectors, that was a no go.


dl242gt said:
Nothing comes out of the fuel injectors unless the pressure is high enough to open the nozzle. So, when you tested the injectors. Did you lift the airflow sensor plate up so the fuel distributor will send fuel to the injectors and open the nozzles? Be sure to put the injector/injectors inside a fuel safe clear container so you can watch the spray pattern. Be very careful this is atomized fuel and do not smoke or have any source of ignition nearby.
Click to expand...
 
Oops . . . .

You describe a gummed up metering rod in the center of the distributor.

Been there. If you force the rod up and it gets stuck you will end up filling your cylinders with fuel until hydro lock. Been there also.

Pull an injector, stick it into a baby bottle and see if you can get it to spray but don't force the metering rod up beyond where it moves freely.

P1101425.jpg


Fuel distributors can be rebuilt for about $300+
 
the air meter only goes down so far there's a shim or a stop on the bottom side of it which doesn't allow anymore, no fuel is getting into the lines that go to the injectors so hydro lock not possible? update: took off the fuel line that comes from the distributor to the number one injector / cylinder and pushed on the air meter and it doesn't come out of the top of the dizzy

TestPoint said:
Oops . . . .

You describe a gummed up metering rod in the center of the distributor.

Been there. If you force the rod up and it gets stuck you will end up filling your cylinders with fuel until hydro lock. Been there also.

Pull an injector, stick it into a baby bottle and see if you can get it to spray but don't force the metering rod up beyond where it moves freely.

P1101425.jpg


Fuel distributors can be rebuilt for about $300+
Click to expand...
 
As Jack pointed out. The plate goes up to send fuel to the injectors. The airflow sensor plate is lifted by the incoming airflow. Do not press down. Do not push down too hard because the stop location is an adjustment. Lift the plate with a strong pen magnet and fuel should flow if the fuel distributor plunger isn't seized from sitting.
 
Some time around '81 - '82 Volvo/Bosch turned the air meter plate around so that it meters down rather than up, at least on my B28F.
 
Don’t mess with plunger !!!!

First unscrew the dizzy and see if valve in middle moves freely. DO NOT push it all the way in or you’ll be fuked.

If any resistance at all tame dizzy off and spray cleaner on valve and inside the dizzy until it moves super easy in and out
 
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