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Old 11-11-2019, 06:50 PM   #51
vwbusman66
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Originally Posted by alschnertz View Post
Down on power? These cars are pretty simple.
Don't get discouraged.
Check the timing and dwell angle. Make sure the points are in excellent shape.
The timing may be good but the points may be worn, and even with good dwell will not give the needed spark. Also, check your float level, dashpot piston free movement, fuel needles moving freely, and make sure you're getting WOT when the pedal is on the floor.
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the only problem with that is what you define as cheap and fast
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Old 11-12-2019, 03:16 PM   #52
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Default Today's Update

Looking better. The idler arm bushing was basically gone causing the excessive play in the steering. Should have caught that earlier. The rest of the suspension looks solid.

The brakes, oh the brakes. Take a look at one of the discs! Don't understand why the seller replaced the brake lines, brake master and fluid without doing the whole job. You can understand why it jumped around under braking. All new discs installed and a good cleanup plus another brake bleed.





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Old 11-12-2019, 03:22 PM   #53
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It's in good company in that shop!

The rotor was sketchy. Sounds like your seller did the basics to get it on the road but stopped well short of checking everything out. I had an Amazon that jumped around a ton, the rear end didn't have a single good bushing left. Scariest 7 mile drive to my house.
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Old 11-12-2019, 03:24 PM   #54
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This is probably the nicest looking 145 I've ever seen. That color really flatters the car. Good luck getting it roadworthy - keep posting here and don't get discouraged!
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Old 11-12-2019, 03:55 PM   #55
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This is probably the nicest looking 145 I've ever seen. That color really flatters the car. Good luck getting it roadworthy - keep posting here and don't get discouraged!
IMO, the best 2 or 3 colors on a 145 are the sea green (like my old car, sort of a bluer version of your 245), the dark forest green (94 IIRC), and that "royal" blue as seen above.

This car rocks.
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Old 11-12-2019, 05:13 PM   #56
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There's also 110 cypress green, which is a little lighter than the dark forest green used on the 1971 and older 140s. Had a '73 145E in 110...
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Old 11-13-2019, 03:09 AM   #57
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That´s a nice 145! The wheels look great
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Old 11-13-2019, 10:08 PM   #58
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Default Update

Well, it is up and running but still not so good. The suspension and brakes are sorted, major leaks stopped but it has a nasty miss that we think is ignition related. Sean, pictured below took interest and left the 12-cylinder Ferrari Daytona engine he is rebuilding to help sort it out. We think the distributor is the cause and we will try a Petronix setup and see if that helps.



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Old 11-13-2019, 10:22 PM   #59
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Sounds like you may have sticky advance weights, do you have a spare distributor you can swap in there?
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Folks on here don't know a good deal when they see it.
how psi stock cna support?

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Old 11-15-2019, 07:46 PM   #60
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Default Running Driving!

It is always the things you should have looked at first that is the root cause of your problem. The points looked good upon visual inspection but they were long gone. So a fresh set of Bosch points went in and off we went. Pulled strong, shifted great and stopped on a dime, maybe a dollar.

A compression test revealed 155s and 160s across all four so I am happy. The 145 is at the body shop repairing the fender and taking care of some minor corrosion. I can't wait until I get it home to start addressing the electrical upgrades and interior refurbishment.

Not bad for resurrecting a car that sat for 39 years (indoors).
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Old 11-15-2019, 07:59 PM   #61
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Such a great example of a 145, congrats on getting her running! I’m sure it feels good driving it around town.
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Old 11-15-2019, 10:44 PM   #62
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Very cool car! Beautiful..
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Old 11-17-2019, 01:11 PM   #63
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Default Anyone have a tool kit for a 140?

I have a beautiful, never out of the bag jack and a tool kit vinyl pouch but no tools. I am sure some of you might know what should be included in a kit so I can start my search
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Old 11-24-2019, 10:46 AM   #64
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Default Thinking about the way it sounds...

Bone stock motor, I know but is there any way to make it sound a little bit more "important"? My 122S friend says just remove the rear muffler and run the one in the middle. That's an easy fix but I was wondering what all of you more experienced Volvoisti think.

I don't want just noise but more of a rumble. Can B20s ever rumble? I like a nice tailpipe coming out the tail too.
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Old 11-24-2019, 10:49 AM   #65
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You could try the Simons sport exhaust from VP Autoparts.

http://212.247.61.152/US/main.aspx?p...cle&artno=071K

It's not stainless is the only downside. Too bad you recently missed out on a forum member selling 3 complete NOS stainless 2" exhausts. He wanted $200. If I didn't already have the Simons kit in my stash, I would've bought one.

There also a guy selling NOS Abarth exhausts. They aren't cheap though & shipping from the UK is probably prohibitive.

https://www.abarth-exhausts.com/volvo/

Last edited by sksmith; 11-24-2019 at 10:59 AM..
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Old 11-24-2019, 12:38 PM   #66
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ITBs!!!
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Old 11-27-2019, 10:16 PM   #67
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Default Another Newbie Question

I drove the project 145 today for the first time. There is a lot of play in the steering. At least I know the front suspension is tight so I assume I can adjust the steering box a little to tighten things up. We did put in a new steering idler arm bushing and everything else looks good.

I discovered that the vent windows are missing the latches. Can I get them new or another source?
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Old 11-27-2019, 10:51 PM   #68
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If you still have the metal posts glued to the vent window glass you can buy all the parts for the handle for ~$25 for each side.

If the metal posts are missing you'll either have to buy new glass for ~$71 per side that comes with the posts as well as new handle parts or just get some of these aftermarket vent window locks.

https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-76994-...a-522650483186
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Old 11-28-2019, 01:08 AM   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mint2Me View Post
I drove the project 145 today for the first time. There is a lot of play in the steering.
How much play?

The static play spec for the steering wheel is in the green book.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Mint2Me View Post
At least I know the front suspension is tight so I assume I can adjust the steering box a little to tighten things up. We did put in a new steering idler arm bushing and everything else looks good.

I discovered that the vent windows are missing the latches. Can I get them new or another source?
Careful with that or you'll trash the box in short order, see above.
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Old 11-28-2019, 03:59 PM   #70
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How much play?

The static play spec for the steering wheel is in the green book.




Careful with that or you'll trash the box in short order, see above.
I guess you missed the part with me being new to vintage Volvos! What is "the green book"? I plan on loosening the nut and turning the screw about a 1/8th at a time until I see some improvement. Might that be what the green book says?

And Happy Thanksgiving to all.
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Old 11-28-2019, 04:03 PM   #71
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Originally Posted by Mint2Me View Post
I guess you missed the part with me being new to vintage Volvos! What is "the green book"? I plan on loosening the nut and turning the screw about a 1/8th at a time until I see some improvement. Might that be what the green book says?

And Happy Thanksgiving to all.


Volvo 1971 140 Green Book


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Old 11-28-2019, 04:20 PM   #72
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Gonna get me one of those. Thanks.
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Old 11-29-2019, 02:54 PM   #73
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Default Ignition up date advice...

I decided to move the 145 to the place where it will stay during the winter and where we will work on getting it sorted and built. It is a scant 4 miles from my home on country roads. Started out okay after a reluctant start at 26 degrees outside temp. Cranked a lot and finally stayed running.

About a mile into the journey it started to buck a little. A 1/2 mile later it almost didn't run at all. I stopped, checked the plug wires and distributor. All seemed okay. It started right up and ran great. I thought I fixed whatever bothered it but a 1/2 mile later it started to lose power and bucked and spit through the carbs. Stopped again, shut it off, restarted and made it the rest of the way okay without a sputter.

Before I picked it up at the shop, my mechanic suggested that although it was running fine (when I picked it up), I should consider either Petronix or a 123 Ignition. So my question to you folks with more experience, which one? A rebuilt distributor with Petronix or 123 Ignition? Will I need to swap out a newer coil too?

Before you ask, the carbs were rebuilt about 10 miles ago and it has a newly cleaned gas tank with new fuel filters and fresh fuel.
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Old 11-29-2019, 03:04 PM   #74
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The coils don't usually go bad but they're cheap to buy and as such are a common shotgun parts cannon item.
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Old 11-29-2019, 03:18 PM   #75
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The 123 distributor while expensive is probably the better choice. An electronic conversion kit doesn't address the worn out advance mechanism that a 50 year old distributor is likely to have.
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