home register FAQ memberlist calendar

Go Back   Turbobricks Forums > Mechanical > projects & restorations

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 07-21-2019, 06:50 PM   #126
didenpx
Board Member
 
didenpx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Live Free or Die
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by sksmith View Post
Good luck!!
Steve
+1 Glad to see you're going to give it another chance at life!
__________________
My feedback: http://forums.turbobricks.com/showth...hlight=didenpx

1970 1800E (Project Roedluvan:http://forums.turbobricks.com/showth...highlight=1970)
1977 242DL "Senf" (Summer Cruiser)
2x1973 1800 ES (Project Reanimator; disassembly and parts detailing to begin Winter 2020)
didenpx is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 07-22-2019, 07:54 PM   #127
vwbusman66
Eisen-Stein
 
vwbusman66's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Morgantown, WV/Your mom's house
Default

I'm putting this list here for my own records as well as a reference for the **** that needs to be done in the next three weeks

T5 Swap: shortened driveshaft, trans tunnel install/tweaking, speedo cable?
Gaskets: Rear main seal, oil pan gasket
Fuel: fuel filter, fuel line bungs front and rear, carbs rebuilt, air filter installed
Water: E-fan installed, thermostat installed, efan wiring designed and installed with saab coolant T, new heater lines, fresh coolant, new lower rad hose
Lube: Oil change, wheel bearings re-packed, diff lube flushed, T5 filled
Electrical: crescent lights re-wired, Hella 500's installed and wired to headlights, head unit installed, tachometer wired and installed, speedometer cluster tightened
Exhaust: finish side pipe and re-hang system
Brakes: verify rear brakes operational, re-bleed, re-plumb vacuum lines with check valve
__________________
1971 142 DD/beater/fake racecar
2011 Jetta Sportwagen 2.5/5 speed
Quote:
Originally Posted by linuxman51 View Post
the only problem with that is what you define as cheap and fast
vwbusman66 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-23-2019, 10:57 PM   #128
vwbusman66
Eisen-Stein
 
vwbusman66's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Morgantown, WV/Your mom's house
Default

Engine came out. After getting it off the mounts and everything disconnected, I realized that I needed to remove the shifter. A quick google search revealed that the large hex shape is a big-ass nut that holds the shifter.

Now to restrain myself from putting my b230f in it

My awesome brother (vwbusman69) running the hoist while I swear and pull.



Now to find a powerwasher
vwbusman66 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-24-2019, 08:22 PM   #129
didenpx
Board Member
 
didenpx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Live Free or Die
Default

Now that looks serious!
didenpx is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 07-24-2019, 08:39 PM   #130
vwbusman66
Eisen-Stein
 
vwbusman66's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Morgantown, WV/Your mom's house
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by didenpx View Post
Now that looks serious!
Especially the socket on the floor and the coolant dumped everywhere.
vwbusman66 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-25-2019, 02:48 PM   #131
stick70
All the gauges
 
stick70's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: North Carolina
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by vwbusman66 View Post
A quick google search revealed that the large hex shape is a big-ass nut that holds the shifter.
I missed that too the first time, it's deceptively easy.
__________________
Kyle and the "Projects" -- '84 242 TI -- '66 220 S -- '89 Supra Turbo -- '84 Rabbit GTI

Quote:
Originally Posted by towerymt View Post
Cool car. Smells period correct. Would follow through twisties again. A+
stick70 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-27-2019, 09:56 PM   #132
vwbusman66
Eisen-Stein
 
vwbusman66's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Morgantown, WV/Your mom's house
Default

SOOO

I pulled the oil pan to replace the gasket and clean it and discovered this:




I pulled all the rod caps and all the main caps. The bearings don't look bad, they just dont look stellar. The thrusts are showing copper, and there is very minor imperfections on the crank and bearings that can be picked up with a fingernail.

So yeah. I have 3 weeks to either finish the b230f swap crack pipe dream, or find another, better B20.
vwbusman66 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-27-2019, 10:03 PM   #133
sksmith
Board Member
 
sksmith's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Back in St. Louis, MO
Default

That sucks!
Good luck finding a running B20 in the next 3 weeks. I doubt you can pull of the OHC swap & be sorted that quickly, but good luck with that as well!!!
You don't know any machine shops in your area that can get you in & out?
If so, bearings from IPD are on sale, take about 3 days to get. Pistons from VP, if they're in stock, would be to you in 2 days tops.
If you find a 74 or 75 8-bolt B20, I have a brand new set of STD pistons sitting in my shop. We could discuss pricing, but it would be cheaper than from a vendor.
Steve
sksmith is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-28-2019, 02:36 AM   #134
John242Ti
LH-Jet & Carb Free Zone
 
John242Ti's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Duvall, WA
Default

Looks like fun.

I can see why you want 240 JAH's B20. Try to get the whole thing, since you might as well convert it over to FI, that way the car is ready for when you decide to install a B230F or FT underhood. Might even make life easy if you decide to grab the B21FT from the guy in NJ and rebuild that for the 142.
__________________

1982 242Ti - black, M46. 1985 245Ti - blue, M46. Formerly Blue245Ti, 245GT-Turbo, and, originally 242GT-Ti.
John242Ti is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-28-2019, 03:09 AM   #135
mocambique-amazone
Board Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Germany
Default

Don't try to swap the B230F upright.
If you prefer to +T this it's obligated.
Complicate too

I won't remember why the B20 has to go.
If the only problem is the carb and ignition site , I prefer to LH2.4 a B20. Runs pretty well with LH2.4 :-)
Good luck, Kay
("New" and used B20 in stock for good luck, B230 too)
mocambique-amazone is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-29-2019, 12:47 AM   #136
Hootbot
Board Member
 
Hootbot's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Saskatchewan, Canada
Default

If the engine wasn't making noise and had good oil pressure before I would just fire in a fresh set of bearings and call it good.

-10000 on what everyone is saying about SUs though, I've driven my 144 off and on for 10 years and I've NEVER gotten those damn things to idle worth a ****. Pure garbage.
Hootbot is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-29-2019, 08:58 AM   #137
stick70
All the gauges
 
stick70's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: North Carolina
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hootbot View Post
If the engine wasn't making noise and had good oil pressure before I would just fire in a fresh set of bearings and call it good.

-10000 on what everyone is saying about SUs though, I've driven my 144 off and on for 10 years and I've NEVER gotten those damn things to idle worth a ****. Pure garbage.
I had good luck for a while with mine after I got the throttle shafts re-bushed. The problem with them is you need to **** with them all the time. You just do.
stick70 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-29-2019, 11:21 AM   #138
JohnMc
PV Abuser
 
JohnMc's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: St. Louis
Default

Yeah, I always had to do 'seasonal' fiddling with the SU's. Whenever the idle got too uneven, I'd just pull out the UNISYN and balance the airflow F&R, then twiddle around with the mixtures and lift pins. Then reset the idle speed. more of an art than a science, but eventually I got pretty good at it.

Then I stuck on DCOE's and haven't needed to do much to them at all for a decade or so.
__________________
'63 PV Rat Rod
'93 245 16VT Classic #1141
JohnMc is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 07-29-2019, 08:36 PM   #139
Hootbot
Board Member
 
Hootbot's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Saskatchewan, Canada
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by stick70 View Post
I had good luck for a while with mine after I got the throttle shafts re-bushed. The problem with them is you need to **** with them all the time. You just do.
Mine are HIF so the throttle shafts should be ok and they don't seem to leak. If you tune them up they're fine for a few days.
Hootbot is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-31-2019, 09:21 PM   #140
vwbusman66
Eisen-Stein
 
vwbusman66's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Morgantown, WV/Your mom's house
Default

Bottom end is torqued and back together. New HD oil pump, updated RMS, thoroughly lubed the mains and rods, and pseudo-primed the oil pump.
Friday will be oil pan re-install and torque, flywheel install, PP and clutch alignment, and final install of the B230FT bellhousing for the T5. Driveline guy is charging me $425 to shorted the driveshaft, put new U joints in, add a mustang slip yoke, and balance the whole thing.

I ordered a 10" Efan (750cfm), a 2.5" bosh tach, and a relay (for the fan) from Summit so I can wire it up to work with the Saab 900 coolant T.

vwbusman66 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-31-2019, 10:36 PM   #141
Cwazywazy
Single jingle
 
Cwazywazy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Granby CT
Default

Are you using the efan with the mech fan? I doubt a 10" on its own will be enough, even for NA.
__________________
I don't know what I have
Cwazywazy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-31-2019, 10:39 PM   #142
vwbusman66
Eisen-Stein
 
vwbusman66's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Morgantown, WV/Your mom's house
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cwazywazy View Post
Are you using the efan with the mech fan? I doubt a 10" on its own will be enough, even for NA.
Just Efan. The thing runs pretty cool as is, just starts to boil when I'm in heavy traffic at 95 degrees. We shall see.
vwbusman66 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-31-2019, 10:41 PM   #143
Vol242vo
Keep it clean...
 
Vol242vo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Spokane, WA
Default

Looking good. Keep plugging away on it, one thing at a time!
__________________
Derek
1980 242
16" BBS RSs - 25/25 Sway Bars - Bilstein HDs - SuperPro Poly - MSD - R Sport Wheel - 'Skinny' Bumpers'

-Project Thread-
Vol242vo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-01-2019, 11:42 AM   #144
stick70
All the gauges
 
stick70's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: North Carolina
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by vwbusman66 View Post
Friday will be oil pan re-install and torque, flywheel install, PP and clutch alignment, and final install of the B230FT bellhousing for the T5. Driveline guy is charging me $425 to shorted the driveshaft, put new U joints in, add a mustang slip yoke, and balance the whole thing.

I ordered a 10" Efan (750cfm), a 2.5" bosh tach, and a relay (for the fan) from Summit so I can wire it up to work with the Saab 900 coolant T.

New slip yoke? That's what I would expect for that price.

Last edited by stick70; 08-01-2019 at 11:54 AM..
stick70 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-01-2019, 11:47 AM   #145
JohnMc
PV Abuser
 
JohnMc's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: St. Louis
Default

I <3 the driveshaft shop I use. I think it was around $300 + tax for a whole new shaft, trans to rear axle. Once years ago fo the T5 swap, and recently for the CD009 swap.

However, that was a one piece. New slip yoke, 1350, shaft, 1350, Volvo compatible flange.
JohnMc is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 08-01-2019, 11:54 AM   #146
stick70
All the gauges
 
stick70's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: North Carolina
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnMc View Post
I <3 the driveshaft shop I use. I think it was around $300 + tax for a whole new shaft, trans to rear axle. Once years ago fo the T5 swap, and recently for the CD009 swap.

However, that was a one piece. New slip yoke, 1350, shaft, 1350, Volvo compatible flange.
iirc that's what mine ran for the wagon for a 1 piece
stick70 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-01-2019, 12:30 PM   #147
Tfrasca
Board Member
 
Tfrasca's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Ben Lomond, CA
Default

$425 seems steep, but what can you do? It's been a couple years, but I think I paid around $300 for a new, shorter front section, new slip yoke, and all new U-joints. And that's in California.
Tfrasca is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-02-2019, 10:21 PM   #148
vwbusman66
Eisen-Stein
 
vwbusman66's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Morgantown, WV/Your mom's house
Default

Rebuilt the carbs tonight. Believe it or not, the one pictured below was the one that didn't have a clogged jet. The rear carb (no fuel/clogged) didn't look as bad inside. I suppose the front was catching all the filth from the tank. I guess I need a fuel filter


vwbusman66 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-04-2019, 09:48 PM   #149
vwbusman66
Eisen-Stein
 
vwbusman66's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Morgantown, WV/Your mom's house
Default

Engine is in. Trans will go in tomorrow.



Cool ass stamping I never noticed before today.

vwbusman66 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-05-2019, 08:48 PM   #150
vwbusman66
Eisen-Stein
 
vwbusman66's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Morgantown, WV/Your mom's house
Default

Trans is in. Need to do final fab on the crossmember and new larger tunnel.


vwbusman66 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 10:17 AM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, vBulletin Solutions Inc.