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Old 07-10-2018, 10:47 AM   #26
ZVOLV
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Pull the upper timing cover and get a strong light and make sure the notch in the washer lines up with the block casting.




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Old 07-10-2018, 12:30 PM   #27
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Pull the upper timing cover and get a strong light and make sure the notch in the washer lines up with the block casting.




And take pictures so you can reference them later! I wish I would have taken more photos during my troubleshooting, so I could look back and say "I already did that!"
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Old 07-10-2018, 03:36 PM   #28
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If I recall you need to pull the crank pulley off to be 100% sure the sprocket is aligned correct.

* He may be alluding to a slipping/slipped harmonic balancer *
Ill take the pulley off now and confirm TDC, thanks!
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Old 07-10-2018, 03:38 PM   #29
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And take pictures so you can reference them later! I wish I would have taken more photos during my troubleshooting, so I could look back and say "I already did that!"
I'll make sure to take quality photos so I can eliminate possibilities, thanks!
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Old 07-10-2018, 03:54 PM   #30
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No need the remove the crank pulley to inspect. Just look from above as I mentioned. Upper cover off.

It really can't hurt to pull the covers, line the marks on the pulleys all up and make sure the dist is dropped in correctly.
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Old 07-10-2018, 04:23 PM   #31
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No need the remove the crank pulley to inspect. Just look from above as I mentioned. Upper cover off.

It really can't hurt to pull the covers, line the marks on the pulleys all up and make sure the dist is dropped in correctly.
Well, sadly everything still lines up perfectly with the correct indicators. I took pictures of everything, how do I upload them to double confirm? I've tried making a folder, but TB won't let me. Thanks!
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Old 07-10-2018, 05:14 PM   #32
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Old 07-10-2018, 05:21 PM   #33
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Thanks, ZVOLV!

Last edited by sideways242; 07-10-2018 at 05:26 PM..
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Old 07-10-2018, 07:47 PM   #34
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... the car starts and runs on two cylinders with a weak spark ... When I crank the car with the coil wire unplugged I get full bright spark grounding over and over. The timing has been reset multiple times and has been confirmed by timing light to be dead on, but still only spark on cylinders one and three.
It sure sounds like everything is fine to the end of the coil wire, but goes bad somewhere between there and the spark plugs. How exactly are you testing to find the weak spark? Plug in a spare set of spark plugs and compare sparks, or something else???

Have you checked for diag codes yet? (Checking both ECU and EZK would be good.)

Are you using a LH2.4 distributor or an older distributor (I'm not sure it would matter though)?

And that rotor doesn't look so fresh or new.... Might help to do a good cleaning of the inside of the cap, rotor, shaft and dust shield if there's any oil film or grease buildup.

If you grab the rotor when installed and twist gently, does it move at all?
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Old 07-10-2018, 08:56 PM   #35
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It sure sounds like everything is fine to the end of the coil wire, but goes bad somewhere between there and the spark plugs. How exactly are you testing to find the weak spark? Plug in a spare set of spark plugs and compare sparks, or something else???

Have you checked for diag codes yet? (Checking both ECU and EZK would be good.)

Are you using a LH2.4 distributor or an older distributor (I'm not sure it would matter though)?

And that rotor doesn't look so fresh or new.... Might help to do a good cleaning of the inside of the cap, rotor, shaft and dust shield if there's any oil film or grease buildup.

If you grab the rotor when installed and twist gently, does it move at all?
Thanks, bobxyz!

I'm using a couple different methods to test spark. First, I'm checking visually with the garage lights out to see the spark at the plug when they're removed, and it appears to be weak and intermittent. I've also hooked up the clamp on the timing light to wires, and it only detects a current through wires 1 and 3. I've also gone through three sets of new plugs, with no difference in the end result.

I had a MAF code, but when replaced and reset all I get on both terminals 2 and 6 is 111.

The distributor is an older one, but when I swapped in the LH 2.4 distributor from my 245 there was no change.

The rotor in the picture was one of the three or four I've tried, including a new one, however, I'll go clean everything now to make sure. And yes, the rotor does barely move when you try to move it side to side.

Thanks for the reply I really appreciate it!
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Old 07-11-2018, 12:03 AM   #36
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Are you using the original K-Jet mechanical+vacuum advance distributor? Maybe with the advance mechanism "fixed" in place? If so, there's a chance that the rotor alignment is off. An easy test is to loosen the disti hold-down bolt and rotate the disti to the end of the slot and see if it makes a difference. Try both ways and see if there's any change in idle.

Otherwise, look at the lengths and fit of all the parts carefully -- coil wire fully seated into cap, plug wires fully seated on both ends, rotor in notch, carbon center post spring ok (and enough length left to reach the rotor), cap dropped into groove all the way, etc.
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Old 07-11-2018, 12:16 AM   #37
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Are you using the original K-Jet mechanical+vacuum advance distributor? Maybe with the advance mechanism "fixed" in place? If so, there's a chance that the rotor alignment is off. An easy test is to loosen the disti hold-down bolt and rotate the disti to the end of the slot and see if it makes a difference. Try both ways and see if there's any change in idle.

Otherwise, look at the lengths and fit of all the parts carefully -- coil wire fully seated into cap, plug wires fully seated on both ends, rotor in notch, carbon center post spring ok (and enough length left to reach the rotor), cap dropped into groove all the way, etc.
There's no different with the distributor moved, and its all been swapped out, so that makes sense. I cleaned everything and checked all the wires and nothing changed. After all the cleaning and wire confirmations, I was greeted with the same good immediate startup, and then back to weird backfiring, and hesitation and bogging on throttle. I decided to let the car sit for a while with its strange issues, and things started to smooth out. Not only did the motor sound perfect and smooth, the exhaust no longer sounded like an FD RX-7 racecar. I thought maybe everything was perfect, but still, when more throttle is applied there is hesitation and backfiring. Could this be a fuel pump thing? The car is full of fresh premium so I know the gas is good, but hey PROGRESS.
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Old 07-11-2018, 12:22 AM   #38
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Are you using the original K-Jet mechanical+vacuum advance distributor? Maybe with the advance mechanism "fixed" in place? If so, there's a chance that the rotor alignment is off. An easy test is to loosen the disti hold-down bolt and rotate the disti to the end of the slot and see if it makes a difference. Try both ways and see if there's any change in idle.

Otherwise, look at the lengths and fit of all the parts carefully -- coil wire fully seated into cap, plug wires fully seated on both ends, rotor in notch, carbon center post spring ok (and enough length left to reach the rotor), cap dropped into groove all the way, etc.
There's no different with the distributor moved, and its all been swapped out, so that makes sense. I cleaned everything and checked all the wires and nothing changed. After all the cleaning and wire confirmations, I was greeted with the same good immediate startup, and then back to weird backfiring, and hesitation and bogging on throttle. I decided to let the car sit for a while with its strange issues, and things started to smooth out. Not only did the motor sound perfect and smooth, the exhaust no longer sounded like an FD RX-7 racecar. I thought maybe everything was perfect, but still, when more throttle is applied there is hesitation and backfires. Could this be a fuel pump thing? The car is full of fresh premium so I know the gas is good, but hey PROGRESS.
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Old 07-11-2018, 10:17 PM   #39
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Glad it's doing better. Next time you're at the salvage yard, find a spare set of plug wires, cap, rotor to throw in the trunk for luck -- the plug wires should measure around 1500 to 3000 ohms, or they're toast already.

When you converted to LH2.4, what _engine_ parts did you swap or alter? Where did the parts come from? Known good or salvage yard specials?
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Old 07-12-2018, 06:56 AM   #40
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No need the remove the crank pulley to inspect. Just look from above as I mentioned. Upper cover off.
Yeah, that's true...one of my friend's 2.4 240's could not be timed(flywheel mounted incorrect by clutch shop), and his guru buddy got grumpy and pulled the crank pulley even tho I could see down in there. In any case, it shouldn't take more than a minute or two to loosen the crank bolt, once there's room to get in there
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Last edited by Otto Mattik; 07-19-2018 at 01:53 AM.. Reason: clarification
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Old 07-12-2018, 02:29 PM   #41
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It's difficult to understand what's going on here. You say it idles now, but isn't misfiring!? What happens when you do a cylinder drop test at idle by unplugging injectors 2 or 3?

Your timing looks spot on. The aux shaft actually doesn't need to be timed as long as the rotor is indeed pointed at the number 1 notch at TDC.
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Old 07-13-2018, 02:16 PM   #42
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It's difficult to understand what's going on here. You say it idles now, but isn't misfiring!? What happens when you do a cylinder drop test at idle by unplugging injectors 2 or 3?

Your timing looks spot on. The aux shaft actually doesn't need to be timed as long as the rotor is indeed pointed at the number 1 notch at TDC.
Hey ZVOLV, I know this is the weirdest thing I've ever experienced. The car has been starting, running rough, backfires, and garbage idle etc...But after a few minutes, it smooths out and the idle sounds great! I don't know why this would be? why would the idle smooth out and the car sound perfect, but when throttle is applied it chokes, backfires, and wants to die??? Im going to do the drop test now! Thanks so much
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Old 07-13-2018, 02:18 PM   #43
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Glad it's doing better. Next time you're at the salvage yard, find a spare set of plug wires, cap, rotor to throw in the trunk for luck -- the plug wires should measure around 1500 to 3000 ohms, or they're toast already.

When you converted to LH2.4, what _engine_ parts did you swap or alter? Where did the parts come from? Known good or salvage yard specials?
The engine was swapped to a b230ft originally and hooked up to my old k jet system. The engine was out of a 91 940 turbo with all sensors. Ill measure the wires to be sure, but they work great on my other car. Thanks!
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Old 07-13-2018, 03:24 PM   #44
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The plug wire resistance range was quoted from IPD. I checked a couple other places and a better check would be: all wires under 10,000 ohms resistance, and the plug wires fairly close to each other. The coil wire may not match as well.

If I understand correctly, you were running a B230FT with K-Jet fueling? If so, did you swap the head&intake from K-Jet to LH2.4? If not, did you install the EFI injectors into the K-Jet holes? What about K-Jet to LH2.4 distributor? And how about fuel pump relay - is the K-Jet one still installed?
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Old 07-13-2018, 07:47 PM   #45
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Running really lean can allow it to idle, but not rev. Or ignition timing/cam timing.

Let's see the video. Youtube.
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Old 07-14-2018, 08:28 AM   #46
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Try unplugging 02 sensor.
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Old 07-15-2018, 11:42 PM   #47
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The plug wire resistance range was quoted from IPD. I checked a couple other places and a better check would be: all wires under 10,000 ohms resistance, and the plug wires fairly close to each other. The coil wire may not match as well.

If I understand correctly, you were running a B230FT with K-Jet fueling? If so, did you swap the head&intake from K-Jet to LH2.4? If not, did you install the EFI injectors into the K-Jet holes? What about K-Jet to LH2.4 distributor? And how about fuel pump relay - is the K-Jet one still installed?

I was running a b230ft with the k jet Christler system ignition timing set up. The intake is lh2.4 with full LH 2.4 and turbo 850 injectors.
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Old 07-15-2018, 11:42 PM   #48
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Try unplugging 02 sensor.
The car started immediately, but sadly still choked.
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Old 07-15-2018, 11:50 PM   #49
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Running really lean can allow it to idle, but not rev. Or ignition timing/cam timing.

Let's see the video. Youtube.

Heres a video of the problem! Thanks!

https://youtu.be/RSH0lpCihCY
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Old 07-16-2018, 05:15 PM   #50
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Is that boost guage hooked up? I don't see it showing good vacuum.

If your engine was really only running on two cylinders, it would be shaking a LOT. Another trick is to put your hand over the tailpipe. A 4 cylinder is very easy to feel dead misfires in the exhaust stream.

It's really difficult to tell what's going on from here, but that may be a large air leak. I use a smoke machine.

What does the o2 sensor voltage say. I will look at your narrowband sensor reading again in that video. Ok, so I see it going max lean when you rev it. Not revving, and that sesnor pegging lean when you punch the throttle...makes me think lean is your problem.
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