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Old 07-11-2018, 10:43 AM   #1
GeneralBurrito
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Default Speedometer shuts off every now and then along with the odometer.

So almost every time I drive, the speedo needle would just drop to 0 and I noticed a few days ago that the odometer/trip meter weren't counting miles as well when the speedo drops. Would it have something to do with the L-plug that connects to the little circuit board behind the cluster or something power related? Every other cluster works perfectly except for the speedo. It would start working again sometimes by itself, with a small tap on the dash board, or sometimes with a few hard smacks. It's getting pretty annoying.
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Old 07-11-2018, 11:12 AM   #2
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Old 07-11-2018, 11:23 AM   #3
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Check the wiring at the differential housing too, sometimes they get rotten.
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Old 07-11-2018, 12:47 PM   #4
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The wires from the diff where they enter the body a prone to breaking.
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Old 07-11-2018, 12:52 PM   #5
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Diff wiring going south, bad/cold solder joints on the board, L shaped connectors getting loose, lots of things to start diagnosing for intermittent speedo operation.
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Old 07-11-2018, 08:12 PM   #6
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Diff wiring going south, bad/cold solder joints on the board, L shaped connectors getting loose, lots of things to start diagnosing for intermittent speedo operation.
The solder looks pretty clean, my dad even inspected them up close and he though they were fine too. I checked the diff wire and the ones going into the plug we're stripped, I separated the wires so they don't touch and wrapped them up with e-tape. I think it could be the L shaped plug, I'll try adjusting the connectors for a tighter clamp in the circuit board and see how it goes tomorrow. That back plate shown in the link above has me interested too.
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Old 07-11-2018, 08:13 PM   #7
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One time use? So once it's removed, it can't be put back on?
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Old 07-11-2018, 08:18 PM   #8
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The tabs are designed to break when it's removed. If you're really careful, you may be able to unbend them enough to get it off without breaking them.
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Old 07-11-2018, 08:24 PM   #9
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The tabs are designed to break when it's removed. If you're really careful, you may be able to unbend them enough to get it off without breaking them.
That sucks, is that Volvo's way of preventing us from tampering with the cluster?
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Old 07-11-2018, 08:31 PM   #10
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Old 07-12-2018, 10:22 AM   #11
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I have NEVER seen one of these before. Is this not a 240 part?
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Old 07-12-2018, 01:23 PM   #12
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The late 240 speedometer is set up to accept the clip, so I imagine it's supposed to have it.

You've probably never come across a cluster that hasn't been removed before.
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Old 07-12-2018, 03:57 PM   #13
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The late 240 speedometer is set up to accept the clip, so I imagine it's supposed to have it.

You've probably never come across a cluster that hasn't been removed before.
http://imgur.com/gallery/uzPSN04
Does the clip screw into where the red arrows are?
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Old 07-12-2018, 04:06 PM   #14
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No, the tabs on the clip fit into the rectangular holes in the circuit board. It just snaps into place.

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Old 07-12-2018, 05:08 PM   #15
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No, the tabs on the clip fit into the rectangular holes in the circuit board. It just snaps into place.

Ah, I see now. Thanks for showing me.
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Old 07-14-2018, 04:34 PM   #16
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So I squeezed together each connection in the L shaped plug and it holds on to the circuit board tighter, I aslo secured the plug in place as much as I can with some electrical tape, but it still has intermittent power cuts. It seems to be somewhere in the dash because just a simple tap cuts the power, while I have to smack the crap out of the dash to get it going again. Could loose/finely cracked solder be the culprit?
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Old 07-14-2018, 04:40 PM   #17
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There's a flex fuse shown just to the left of the white speedo housing in the above picture. It supplies 12volts from the 3-pin connector to the speedo and console. Try removing and cleaning the connections carefully (I don't know how fragile they are after 20+ years).

Edit: See http://www.cleanflametrap.com/speedo5/ or http://www.cleanflametrap.com/speedoDiag.html

(Thanks Art!)

Last edited by bobxyz; 07-14-2018 at 04:53 PM..
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Old 07-14-2018, 05:24 PM   #18
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Okay I'll try doing that. What would be recommended to clean it, isopropyl alcohol?

Last edited by GeneralBurrito; 07-15-2018 at 08:34 AM..
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Old 07-18-2018, 08:00 AM   #19
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The solder looks pretty clean, my dad even inspected them up close and he though they were fine too. I checked the diff wire and the ones going into the plug we're stripped, I separated the wires so they don't touch and wrapped them up with e-tape. I think it could be the L shaped plug, I'll try adjusting the connectors for a tighter clamp in the circuit board and see how it goes tomorrow. That back plate shown in the link above has me interested too.
Gonna wanna do a proper fix on that diff wiring before you can rule it out. It's accessible up top through the gas tank hatch (even easier if you have a wagon), so just splice it back and put a new connector on it. There are a couple places to rob them from parts cars, though you're better off buying new wiring with the proper boots for the bullet connectors.

I just went through this. The wiring doesn't have to be broken to make it work like sh1t, and smacking the dash did affect things for whatever reason, even though the diff wiring was the issue. The wires don't just break, they corrode up the length of it, so electrical tape is not a great fix.

It's the same connector as the side marker lights:

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/vol...ll-amber-1-1-1
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Old 07-18-2018, 09:13 AM   #20
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Gonna wanna do a proper fix on that diff wiring before you can rule it out. It's accessible up top through the gas tank hatch (even easier if you have a wagon), so just splice it back and put a new connector on it. There are a couple places to rob them from parts cars, though you're better off buying new wiring with the proper boots for the bullet connectors.

I just went through this. The wiring doesn't have to be broken to make it work like sh1t, and smacking the dash did affect things for whatever reason, even though the diff wiring was the issue. The wires don't just break, they corrode up the length of it, so electrical tape is not a great fix.

It's the same connector as the side marker lights:

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/vol...ll-amber-1-1-1
This sounds promising. I have a sedan, but I think I know where the little box the diff wiring goes into, the one that goes up the left side of the trunk right? So I'll just have to get that new wiring set and replace the wiring up to the box?
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Old 07-18-2018, 09:19 AM   #21
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I had the same issue. It was loose connections on the back of the cluster. Make sure everything is double checked. I had to pull it twice until I found the connection that was doing it.
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Old 07-18-2018, 09:34 AM   #22
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I had the same issue. It was loose connections on the back of the cluster. Make sure everything is double checked. I had to pull it twice until I found the connection that was doing it.
The connections that press onto the circuitboard behind the speedo? I've pulled it and squeezed each connector so it clamps onto the circuit board firmly. It's on there tight and I taped it in place to reduce any movement from vibrations. After a few days of driving, the speedo seems to fail more during the morning when it's cold and rarely during the day when it's hotter outside.

Last edited by GeneralBurrito; 07-18-2018 at 09:43 AM..
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Old 07-18-2018, 10:01 AM   #23
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This sounds promising. I have a sedan, but I think I know where the little box the diff wiring goes into, the one that goes up the left side of the trunk right? So I'll just have to get that new wiring set and replace the wiring up to the box?
Yup, you'll have to pry that open. You can also use that test method in the clean flametrap link someone posted above. You don't have to replace that whole harness, usually just cutting back and splicing into a good section of wire is fine. I did make myself a separate harness further down, though. Used a 2-pin connector from the power windows on my parts car to make a shorter harness with new wire. I didn't have time to wait for new wire and clips in the mail, so I used some rubber booted bullet connectors from somewhere else on the parts car, too.

It acted up a 2nd time and when I pulled the clip off, it was full of water. So it's worth buying new wiring with rubber boots that are in good shape. That wiring is subject to the elements more than most.
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Old 07-18-2018, 10:01 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by GeneralBurrito View Post
The connections that press onto the circuitboard behind the speedo? I've pulled it and squeezed each connector so it clamps onto the circuit board firmly. It's on there tight and I taped it in place to reduce any movement from vibrations. After a few days of driving, the speedo seems to fail more during the morning when it's cold and rarely during the day when it's hotter outside.
I had that issue, too. Moisture in the morning was getting into the diff connector and making it worse.
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Old 07-18-2018, 10:26 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by XxJenoxX View Post
Yup, you'll have to pry that open. You can also use that test method in the clean flametrap link someone posted above. You don't have to replace that whole harness, usually just cutting back and splicing into a good section of wire is fine. I did make myself a separate harness further down, though. Used a 2-pin connector from the power windows on my parts car to make a shorter harness with new wire. I didn't have time to wait for new wire and clips in the mail, so I used some rubber booted bullet connectors from somewhere else on the parts car, too.

It acted up a 2nd time and when I pulled the clip off, it was full of water. So it's worth buying new wiring with rubber boots that are in good shape. That wiring is subject to the elements more than most.
Alright, I'll check out the diff wiring as soon as I can.
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