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240: Cruise Control Options

malloy1

Active member
Joined
Nov 9, 2003
Location
Denver CO
Everyone knows the Volvo ones suck.

Anybody have any suggestions for an aftermarket or modified (from other maker/model) cruise control systems for a '90 240?

Paul
 
I think the Volvo cruise systems work great, unless, they don't work at all. Your car is pre-wired for cruise. Have you already tried a stock Volvo system in your 240?
 
Mine worked great until I put a turbo on. In cruise mode it cycled between boosting and overshooting the target speed then slamming the throttle shut & slowing down endlessly

following this thread :cool:
 
Really?

->Vacuum pump can't keep up the speed when climbing a slight hill. I live in Colorado, so the terrain is up and down, not flat (sometimes up for a long way).
->No speed adjustment down without hitting the brakes or turnoff/on cruise system, and resetting speed.

My pump now has either a bad pressure switch or a leak in the vacuum pump.

I figured somebody here would have figured out another maker/model that uses a better system that I can grab off a car in the junkyard for peanuts.

I was hoping somebody had a better solution, instead of just replacing the pump.
 
I used a Rostra universal for almost 20 years. You can activate it with either the Volvo OEM switch or with one of Rostra's -- which look reasonably OEM. Much better performance than OEM - fully electronic and adjustable in a variety of ways. When I went with a DBW LS a couple of years ago I switched to a Dakota Digital unit -- turns out it is made by Rostra as well. Kept my same activation switch. You can see it below the wiper stalk on the passenger side of the column. This has all worked perfectly with a pickup and 2 magnets on the driveshaft. There are provisions for VSS input as well.



http://www.rostra.com/universal-aftermarket-cruise-control-by-rostra.php #250-1223 -- probably get it through Jegs or Summit or Amazon
 
Sounds like your vac switches leak or are mis-adjusted or something?

I haven't really had issues, it's basically the same system as in a 740 Turbo? Only difference is that the puller is in the cabin, which is nice for longevity, but it will be compromised if the throttle cable binds up from the gas pedal. Many are frayed/crusty/tired by now. It should be quite effortless to pull that cable.

The cruise worked fine in my stick shift 700T. :e-shrug: Auto were a little weird with boost but any road straight enough to be worth bothering to use cruise on was really no big deal for the most part...

Then again though, you're not supposed to use cruise in rain/bad weather. So between that and not having that many no traffic roads appropriate for it exactly, I almost never get to use it (anymore).
I forget...IIRC you just tap the brakes and hit resume or whatever?
I remember it being painless when working properly on the 90+ cars.
at 6K feet maybe the engine is ~40% down on power (N/A?) so it has to really yank the throttle open to climb a grade, but it worked fine for me getting over the siskyous which is one of the hillier portions of I5 (~4Kfeet). :e-shrug:
If it has 3.31 gears, OE wagon-size tires and the average tired B230F with an M46/47, forget climbing anything vaguely resembling grades in OD/5th and being able to maintain speed precisely/effortlessly (even near sea level) cruise or not (even without pulling much weight):lol:

The earlier cruise really is terrible with more power, but the 90+ 2/7/9 systems got a LOT better.

I used a Rostra universal for almost 20 years. You can activate it with either the Volvo OEM switch or with one of Rostra's -- which look reasonably OEM. Much better performance than OEM - fully electronic and adjustable in a variety of ways. When I went with a DBW LS a couple of years ago I switched to a Dakota Digital unit -- turns out it is made by Rostra as well. Kept my same activation switch. You can see it below the wiper stalk on the passenger side of the column. This has all worked perfectly with a pickup and 2 magnets on the driveshaft. There are provisions for VSS input as well.

http://i.imgur.com/opL28aB.jpg[/url]

[url]http://www.rostra.com/universal-aftermarket-cruise-control-by-rostra.php[/url] #250-1223 -- probably get it through Jegs or Summit or Amazon[/QUOTE]

Your car is N/A, right? V8, but N/A?
Some of the cruise systems worked so badly from the factory on the turbo 4cylinder 760s it was hilarious. Would basically sweep from full boost to vac regularly instead of maybe allowing slight variations in speed and easing on the throttle.
 
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Really?

->Vacuum pump can't keep up the speed when climbing a slight hill. I live in Colorado, so the terrain is up and down, not flat (sometimes up for a long way).
->No speed adjustment down without hitting the brakes or turnoff/on cruise system, and resetting speed.

My pump now has either a bad pressure switch or a leak in the vacuum pump.

I figured somebody here would have figured out another maker/model that uses a better system that I can grab off a car in the junkyard for peanuts.

I was hoping somebody had a better solution, instead of just replacing the pump.

So my mighty 240 has like 100 hp on a good day with my foot against the floorboard. I guess I expect that there will be a little lag on inclines with the system. Maybe I have lower expectations or something but like 2manyturbos I'm thinking it works as advertised. :omg:

To each their own.
 
The pump not keeping up is probably a leaking vacuum break valve at the brake pedal, or, clutch pedal if it is a stick car. They work fine on all the late 2-7-9 series cars. I think you just hold in the set button to set it at a lower speed. While holding it in it goes into a "coast" mode, if I remember correctly. My 7 -9 series Turbo cars will pull steep grades at 70 mph with the cruise set. They are into boost when doing so. Boost has no affect on the cruise function since it does not utilize engine vacuum.
 
The cruise on my 90' 240 also has issues. Nothing as dramatic as malloy1 but I do get slight surging of the throttle. I'm guessing a vac leak or something. It overshoots then backs off with a pretty steady frequency. Actual vehicle speed doesn't change hardly at all but it kills my highway MPG.
 
I would have worn I saw someone put a cruise control form a 850 in their 240.

I guess that might make sense. It's the same mechanical parts as the 1990-93 240s from the looks of it.
GR-60575.jpg
 
Copied from volvotips
This is for the 850, worth going through this procedure on the 240.

To activate the pump on a 240 connect (at the pump):
Green/Yellow to +12v
Yellow/Red to Gnd
Orange to Gnd

5010d1317666736-broken-cruise-control-cc-90.jpg


VACUUM SYSTEM CHECK

NOTE: To properly test vacuum system, it is necessary to operate vacuum motor and regulator with jumper wires from control unit base. Use care when connecting wires as an incorrect connection can destroy components.
Jumper Wire
Manufacture 2 jumper wires. One should be a single wire with one normal blade terminal at one end and a thin blade terminal at the other end. One blade terminal should be thin. Other jumper wire should be a double wire joined at one end with a normal blade terminal, while other ends should have thin blade terminals.
Starting Vacuum Pump & Regulator
volvo 850 service repair workshop manual jumper cruise control cc
1) Ensure ignition is off. Remove cruise control unit from under-hood relay/fuse block. See Fig. 3. Connect single jumper wire between cruise control unit base terminals 1S and 7T. Connect one end of other wire to terminal 3S. See Fig. 5. Turn ignition on.
Fig. 5: Connecting Jumper Wires To Control Unit Base Terminals
Courtesy of Volvo Cars of North America.
2) Connect other end of wire connected to terminal 3S to terminal 9S. Vacuum regulator should click. Connect other wire end to terminal 7S. Vacuum motor should start while vacuum servo contracts so control cylinder is pulled up. Remove wire from terminal 7S when
vacuum servo is fully contacted, stopping vacuum motor. If system does not operate as described, go to step 4). If system operates as described, go to next step.
3) Let vacuum servo remain contracted for at least 30 seconds to ensure there is no leakage in vacuum system. See Fig. 2. To release vacuum servo, remove wire from terminal 9S. Turn ignition off. If system operates as described, go to step 7). If system does not
operate as described, go to next step.
4) Remove all jumper wires from control unit base. Connect voltmeter between cruise control unit base terminals 3S and 1S. If battery voltage is not present, check wiring to cruise control unit. If battery voltage is present, go to next step.
5) Ensure ignition is off. Connect ohmmeter between control unit base terminals 7T and 7S. Ohmmeter should indicate about 17 ohms (internal resistance of vacuum motor). Connect ohmmeter between control unit base terminals 7T and 9S. Ohmmeter should indicate about
100 ohms (internal resistance of regulator). If resistances are not to specification, take measurements at individual components (vacuum
motor and regulator) to determine whether fault is in component or wiring. If all measurements are to specification but vacuum system still leaks, go to next step.
6) Start vacuum pump and regulator as outlined in steps 1) and 2). Stop pump so vacuum leaks can be heard. If any valves are leaking and require adjustment, see BRAKE & CLUTCH VALVES under ADJUSTMENTS.
7) If system operated as described in step 3), start vacuum pump and regulator as outlined in steps 1) and 2). Stop vacuum pump when vacuum servo is fully contracted, but keep regulator connected. Press brake pedal to release vacuum servo. If vacuum servo does not release, loosen vacuum hose connection to release servo. Replace valve.
8) Start vacuum pump again and contract vacuum servo. Press clutch pedal to release vacuum servo. If servo does not release, replace valve.
 

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No way in hell I'd want to hack a cruise module from another car into mine.

Good idea checking the throttle cable. I've got a pile of those vac pumps for whatever reason. Do you remember what size o-ring is in the switch?

After doing a bunch of research on Hella based (what ours are) cruise modules, OEMs will use the same control module between very different models/engines. Audi/VW for example has the same module in a Passat, A8, A4, A6 etc. The PID loop is tuned for the response the pump/actuator system.
 
Found a leaky o ring in the brake pedal switch and my throttle cable is draggy. The leak wasn't bad enough for the cruise to not work at all but it makes sense that it was surging a little.

Suitable o-ring size is AS568B-008
 
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Small gutless cars often cruise poorly. That said, for best economy you're probably actually better off letting the speed vary just a bit (little faster down inclines, little slower up hills) to the extent that's possible without making any sudden adjustments or being a hazard.

Cruise control is to control speed of the vehicle, not the gas mileage. If you want best MPG, I agree, use your foot and don't vary the throttle if you can help it.


I can get over 83mpg going average of 45mph, but nobody wants to drive behind an Insight at 40-50mph...
83mpg.jpg
 
So all 240's were factory wired for cruise? Are the factory parts still available to add? Thanks for the help -
 
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