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Old 06-26-2018, 01:44 PM   #1
89_740Turbo
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Default What should I set my IPD adjustable cam gear to??

My 740Ti build is coming along very nicely with the help of dl242gt. When I received the car, it needed work. It's already come a long way.

I bought IPD's turbo cam kit this past fathers day because it was on sale for a great price. I picked everything up (Turbo Performance Camshaft, IPD adjustable cam gear, cam seals, new cover gasket, and timing belt) for a hair over $280 including shipping. I'm really enjoying this build and having a blast finding parts, both new and used, to throw into the car. Next up is a NPR intercooler, new intercooler tubing and eventually a new exhaust, but one thing at a time.

My question is: What should I adjust the cam gear to? The car is currently around 185HP @ 10 PSI. I've never installed an adjustable cam and want to know what I should/shouldnt set it to. Thanks.
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Old 06-26-2018, 01:52 PM   #2
PromiseRing
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Stock turbo? The turbo will run out of breath long before the cam. So I would advance it 2.5 degrees or so. You can just play with it: trial and error. See what you like.

I’m at a similar conundrum. My 13c doesn’t breathe but the iPd cam kind of does. The real solution is probably a bigger turbo.
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Old 06-26-2018, 02:00 PM   #3
89_740Turbo
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PromiseRing View Post
Stock turbo? The turbo will run out of breath long before the cam. So I would advance it 2.5 degrees or so. You can just play with it: trial and error. See what you like.

I’m at a similar conundrum. My 13c doesn’t breathe but the iPd cam kind of does. The real solution is probably a bigger turbo.
I'm going to upgrade to a larger turbo after I've completed everything i'll need for it which includes the T5 trans, and I'm no where near planning a T5 install yet lol but you're right.

Yea I have a fresh rebuild stock turbo. Nothing crazy but a lot of fun and much faster under 10psi. 2.5 degrees? I'll start with that as a baseline and go from there.
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Old 06-26-2018, 03:00 PM   #4
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All of my redblocks have made the most power straight up. So it all depends on how you want the car to act
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Old 06-26-2018, 04:34 PM   #5
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I would think that straight up or a slight advance would be best. I didn't really experiment much with mine so IDK. Surely retarding wouldn't offer much with a stock turbo, would it?
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Old 06-26-2018, 06:18 PM   #6
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I planned on six advanced because two was not enough when I tried it and six is just right when I used that setting. This car has the heavy ass flywheel and I wanted to give it some good low end to spin that thing up. The cam will still be freeing up a lot of mid and high end power at that setting. And we will be putting in the chipped ecu at that time.

The boost is going to stay a bit conservative around 10psi. I'd like to do the exhaust and clutch soon. That way it is ready for an improved turbo and intercooler.
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Old 06-26-2018, 10:52 PM   #7
89_740Turbo
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I planned on six advanced because two was not enough when I tried it and six is just right when I used that setting. This car has the heavy ass flywheel and I wanted to give it some good low end to spin that thing up. The cam will still be freeing up a lot of mid and high end power at that setting. And we will be putting in the chipped ecu at that time.

The boost is going to stay a bit conservative around 10psi. I'd like to do the exhaust and clutch soon. That way it is ready for an improved turbo and intercooler.
Any recommendations on clutch? Yoshifab sells a nice clutch but its pricey
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Old 06-26-2018, 11:36 PM   #8
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Yoshifab is some good stuff. I will talk it over with you and we'll figure something out.
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Old 06-27-2018, 04:33 AM   #9
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you need to increase the overlap. You do this by tightening the lobe separation angle (LSA) between the intake cam's and exhaust cam's lobe centers with your aftermarket adjustable cam gears . When you tighten the LSA, you increase cam overlap duration.
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Old 06-27-2018, 05:14 AM   #10
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I would perhaps try 2-2,5mm opening @ tdc. Don't trust the stock timing marks.
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Old 06-27-2018, 08:00 PM   #11
dl242gt
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Quote:
Originally Posted by virtualking View Post
you need to increase the overlap. You do this by tightening the lobe separation angle (LSA) between the intake cam's and exhaust cam's lobe centers with your aftermarket adjustable cam gears . When you tighten the LSA, you increase cam overlap duration.
Cams for turbo use, use less overlap than an n/a cam.

This is done when the cam is ground. You are affecting the overall advance or retard timing of the cam itself relative to the crankshaft with the adjustable cam gear. The lobe angle will determine if the cam is more turbo or n/a oriented. For example the V15 turbo cam has a lobe separation of 112 degrees but the exact same cam for n/a use has a lobe angle of 109 degrees which is more overlap for n/a use. http://www.turbobricks.com/resources...ontent=camspec Look at the two different versions of the V15 and the notes over to the side of the chart. This is why I use these exact cams in both of my cars.
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Old 06-28-2018, 06:13 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by virtualking View Post
you need to increase the overlap. You do this by tightening the lobe separation angle (LSA) between the intake cam's and exhaust cam's lobe centers with your aftermarket adjustable cam gears . When you tighten the LSA, you increase cam overlap duration.
You cannot adjust the LSA on an 8v cam with a cam gear as both intake and exhaust lobes are on the same shaft. So when you move the centre line of one, you also move the the centre line of the other.

Does IPD not supply a cam card with a recommended intake opening event number? Naturally this is just a 'starting point', but deck height, head gasket thickness and head skimming all play a part in the cam timing. So while one person may have there cam set to 2degrees advanced, to get the recommended intake opening @.050" another engine may have to have the cam set somewhere else. Hence why aftermarket cams should be degree'd in as it isn't safe to assume any one engine is the same, nor that every cam that IPD grind is exactly the same.
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Old 06-28-2018, 12:17 PM   #13
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degree wheel ,magnetic base dial indicator, bent piece of wire,piston stop, cam card, a book on how to degree in a cam, beers, friends and Saturday afternoon. to do it right, Joe mondello would always degree four holes on a v-8 because of varying deck heights. but if you don't want to do this advancing the cam gives more low end punch and retarding gives more punch in the upper rpms, where do you spend 99 percent of your time at? and most aftermarket cams have anywheres from 4-8 degrees of advance ground into them from the start
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Old 06-28-2018, 04:03 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by freevolvos View Post
degree wheel ,magnetic base dial indicator, bent piece of wire,piston stop, cam card, a book on how to degree in a cam, beers, friends and Saturday afternoon. to do it right, Joe mondello would always degree four holes on a v-8 because of varying deck heights. but if you don't want to do this advancing the cam gives more low end punch and retarding gives more punch in the upper rpms, where do you spend 99 percent of your time at? and most aftermarket cams have anywheres from 4-8 degrees of advance ground into them from the start
All of the above. It's why I've started the Redblock cam valve event sticky.

I was just thinking about Joe Mondello. Didn't realize he'd passed.
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Old 06-30-2018, 01:52 PM   #15
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Try it straight up then advance it if you need to shift the power lower.
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Old 07-03-2018, 06:29 PM   #16
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Try it straight up then advance it if you need to shift the power lower.
Further to this point: if your head has been "planed" for flatness, your cam is RETARDED when timing is running straight up. I'm using the full Dales' 6* advance, and am probably barely at 0* net or an extremely small advance.
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Old 07-03-2018, 08:45 PM   #17
dl242gt
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The car has 138k miles and seems to be original untouched. I want the advance on the cam to help spin up that heavy flywheel.
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