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Old 07-03-2018, 11:35 PM   #1
Dirty Rick
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What should I limit the boost to?

It hits 200kpa really quick

B230 in a '84 760 Auto.

Nice intercooler, big exhaust, RC750's on pump gas.

Not sure how much the trans will take.

I'm not a boost junkie and its not my car, I don't want to turn loose a monster.

This thing will easily make 250kpa, I'd like to know where the trans signs off.

Last edited by Dirty Rick; 07-04-2018 at 12:35 PM..
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Old 07-05-2018, 06:07 PM   #2
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You have a T4 turbo?

http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/8275...turbo-500-obo/
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Old 07-06-2018, 08:39 AM   #3
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In what vehicle does that turbo hit 200kpa quick?

Would be near my last choice for a b230 with stock auto.... stall speed of say 2000rpm. Unless you’re hitting it with a shot of nitrous on the line that is gonna be a dog. I don’t see how you’re gonna get 200kpa before 5000rpm.

I’d pass But ymmv
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Old 07-06-2018, 11:04 AM   #4
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The turbo I am messing with must be a hybrid, the hot side has been changed. Much smaller. Internal waste gate.

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Old 07-06-2018, 11:38 AM   #5
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I'm cleaning up someones mess and I'm short on knowledge of things boosty

I think it is a combination that get hosed shortly over 250kpa due to limited flow of the exhaust side.

Will the compressor side be happy getting spun that fast?

Just looking at it hurts my eyes, I want to do something with the exit flow.
That necked down section looks like a huge bottle neck.
I'm thinking welding on a V band to match the large pipe and port the outlet to match.
But thats on the bucket list.

First I'm having trouble getting boost under control.
What is the best control method to get smooth boost limiting?
It has a 3 port older DIY solenoid
It has a 2 port WG actuator, should I be using both ports?
I'm finding a confusing number of ways to hook it up.
Also It doesn't have a boost port on the compressor housing, where is the best place to get the boost signal?
I can drill & tap the housing or the turbo to cooler pipe for this.
I did not see a bung on the compressor housing to drill.
I am used to seeing a pressure port on the compressor housing or a place to drill one.

Or is this hybrid combo off the deep end and needs to be reworked?
Power level is good I'm mostly concerned with smooth control at this point.

Last edited by Dirty Rick; 07-06-2018 at 11:58 AM..
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Old 07-06-2018, 12:05 PM   #6
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I'm assuming your WGA looks like this:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tnt-30326


To start with, I wouldn't worry about connecting the solenoid, and only connect the boost signal line to the outer port on the WGA. I'd add a hose barb to the hot side IC pipe as close to the turbine outlet as possible. This setup should allow you to make sure things are working in a "typical" setup before adding the extra boost control solenoid. I'd also set your WGA preload to 1/2 the diameter of the WG pin if it isn't that way already.
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Old 07-06-2018, 03:34 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dirty Rick View Post
The turbo I am messing with must be a hybrid, the hot side has been changed. Much smaller. Internal waste gate.

This is what you can a T4 (compressor side) / T3 (turbine side) hybrid.

Go measure the compressor wheel diameter and then we can look up the compressor map.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dirty Rick View Post
Just looking at it hurts my eyes, I want to do something with the exit flow.
That necked down section looks like a huge bottle neck.
I'm thinking welding on a V band to match the large pipe and port the outlet to match.
But thats on the bucket list.
This is what you really want.

http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=343198

Then you can port out the wastegate hole in the turbine housing to reduce boost creep. You want the boost control hose to be as small and short as possible to get the signal to the wastegate actuator as fast as possible.
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Old 07-07-2018, 10:24 AM   #8
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Thanks, you may have just told that housing.

How can I ID the actuator that is installed?

I found out the trans has been blessed for 350hp by Morton.

Last edited by Dirty Rick; 07-07-2018 at 11:27 AM..
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Old 07-07-2018, 12:16 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dirty Rick View Post
How can I ID the actuator that is installed?
You put air to it and see how much PSI to take to get it open and how much psi it takes to fully open it.


I use a 7psi actuator and a electronic boost controller to control boost up to 27psi.
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Old 07-07-2018, 11:57 PM   #10
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I'll do that.
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Old 07-09-2018, 02:27 PM   #11
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Actuator starts to move @ 8psi and is fully open at 16psi
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Old 07-09-2018, 02:42 PM   #12
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A good way to set up most internal wastegates is to measure rod extension with a dial indicator as you slowly pump up pressure into the actuator (using a Mityvac or other regulated pressure source w/ gauge). The pressure required to reach 1.00mm (0.040") extension is the ballpark pressure you'd reach without boost control. Swing valves don't need much opening at all to flow most of their capacity. It's fairly non-linear. Of course you can adjust preload on the actuator to get more out of it, by shortening the rod end, but then you start limiting travel.
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Old 07-09-2018, 06:29 PM   #13
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Your current system seems to work very good at 200kpa. Why not just leave it be?

Last edited by tryingbe; 07-13-2018 at 11:29 AM..
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Old 07-13-2018, 11:16 AM   #14
Dirty Rick
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I need to keep it out of over-boost protection.

I'm still learning here,
I think the small outlet is limiting waste gate control?

My sweaty pea brain is thinking there is a huge pressure drop between the housing and the 3", under boost?
I'll be hugging my AC today even though the parts showed up.
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