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Old 07-02-2018, 04:09 AM   #1
MadDog_945
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Default Welding that subframe...

Hi.. i puzzled with the lasercut parts from Yoshifab on my subframe.. i believe a found a position for every sheet without getting in the way of the torque rods and so on.. how did you weld it? I'd like to weld througfh but in crosswelding technique every 5cm switching to the other side like tightening wheelsnuts..

Also there must be fabbed another sheet for closing that part where the 2 rolled sheetmetalpins go in to the mounts. somebody did that already? I see the weakpoint there after welding it...
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Old 07-02-2018, 12:15 PM   #2
DET17
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Be careful with the forward plates on the subframe. I favored a plate too much forward and then had to trim one to attach the forward nut/stud. Pics in my build.....and of course check articulation of the links. Stitch welded mine approx. 50% and probably could have used 33%. This I believe is the plate that I needed to trim shorter.... so actually it was too long as fab'd by YOSHI....

[IMG][/IMG]

Good luck.
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Old 07-02-2018, 03:53 PM   #3
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I have never used the yoshifab plates so I am not a lot of help. Myself I have just used peices of flat steel as seen in my other posts I have put up pictures of what I did. I typically bolt everything tightly together and then tack weld all of the corners. After everything is in place just weld one seam at a time.
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Old 07-02-2018, 08:01 PM   #4
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Pics here of how I weld up the pins at the end and box in a plate there also. I grind the pins where they connect a bit so I can get the weld in deeper. Also while welding I have all the parts connected to the subframe like the dog bone on the pins and both of the torque rods and the front connector part also when I weld the plates. Then take those off and weld up the pins. Make sure you leave space between the plates and the torque rods to fully articulate and not hit them.

http://forums.turbobricks.com/showpo...9&postcount=10







In my opinion the yoshifab plates are overkill. If i was using them, yes I'd stitch weld them otherwise that's a lot of welding on a bunch of thin metal. I use flat metal plates that are the same thickness as the subframe. Not sure how thick the yoshi plates are, but they seem thinner then the subframe. If I was designing weld in plates for this specifically, I'd make them in an X style stamped out of same thickness steel as the subframe. Then no extra weight or massive seam to weld. If you follow my pics on plate location you should be fine for no problems for installing and no torque rods hitting anything.

The weak spot is where the pins go into the dogbone at the rear of the subframe, that is where the whole thing twists if the rear end gets squirly and moves around a bunch from clutch drops. Automatic trans cars don't seem to break rear subframes like man trannies do, but enough power and you can do it!
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Old 07-09-2018, 06:39 AM   #5
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fininshed mine..







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Old 07-09-2018, 02:52 PM   #6
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I see some problems. The upper torque rod when it goes up will hit that plate you put above it. Look at my pics, see the lower side of the subframe towards the back of it, I have nothing there. That upper torque rod needs to be able to go all the way up.

The front part you should leave space to get that front piece that bolts in room to slide in from the top at least. Otherwise the only way to get your subframe in the car is to slip that front part in the hole with the dogbone attached to the back and then bolt the dogbone in. I usually do it the other way myself, bolt dogbone in the back then slip subframe into the dogbone then put that front piece in the hole and then bolt it in. The way you welded the plate in the front, you can't do that....

I think it has something to do with the rest of the rear end and installing the back first is easier or the only way it works. I can't remember off hand.

Can you post a picture of it with an above angle of the bottom side of your subframe. All your pics don't really show that part, the part I think is a problem...

This angle.



See the subframes I weld up, I don't put any metal in the way there. See?










I had to cut that lower plate out as the torque rod hit it. This was the first one I ever did.


Here is your problem area.

Last edited by sbabbs; 07-09-2018 at 03:32 PM..
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Old 07-09-2018, 03:44 PM   #7
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ha! thx for your effort!

if you shove the bushingmount on the 2 thorns and you wiggle that forward bushing into that one hole there shouldnt be a problem? it is also the way i disassembled?? hm..yeah.. i will install the frame and check without springs how the travel and hitting points are.. that was the plan anyway.
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Old 07-09-2018, 03:53 PM   #8
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It might work that way, the rear end might be in the way though. Try it. It's a hell of a lot easier installing it the other way, front up last.

IF your rear end is out of the car then you can do it front first for sure.
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Old 07-09-2018, 03:56 PM   #9
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i will do and report back
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