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Old 07-12-2018, 12:22 PM   #1
Wesdunns70t5m
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Default Help with setting up 15g for rwd

Hey all! So I recently picked up a 15g turbo from an 850 turbo, and am currently setting it up to install on my 1990 760. Iíve disassembled it, have a general idea on how Iím gonna set the wastegate up, and have it clocked in roughly the right orientation. My biggest hurdle is removing the two damn studs where it bolts to the manifold. Iíve hit it with heat and pb blaster and tried turning them out with vice grips. No dice. My next step was welding nuts onto the studs to turn them that way, still no dice, either the weld wouldnít hold, or it would just break the studs. Finally I clamped the studs into a bench vise and tried turning the turbo itself. I ended up breaking the stud on the first attempt, and on the second attempt it actually broke the vice itself. How did you guys manage to remove these damn studs?? Any help is appreciated as my luck is the ďeasiestĒ part always kicks my ass!
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Old 07-12-2018, 12:30 PM   #2
Sjeng
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Same here on TD04. Broken stud even after applying penetrating fluid multiple times.

Ended up drilling out a stud on one turbine housing. Which is quite a challenge.
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Old 07-12-2018, 12:45 PM   #3
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Yeah same happened when installing the 16T, I cut the rest of the studs off flush and drilled them out. Drilling was the worst part and took ages. Make sure you have good and sharp drill bits, as you won't come very far with old bits.
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Old 07-12-2018, 01:15 PM   #4
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Multiple cobalt bits with a drill press been my method.
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Old 07-12-2018, 01:46 PM   #5
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I took mine to a local machine shop, 30 mins on their mill and both studs were out AND they drilled it out to fit the manifold studs.

$40 well spent in my book.
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Old 07-12-2018, 02:50 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncleknucklez View Post
they drilled it out to fit the manifold studs.
Did you go larger than M8?
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Old 07-12-2018, 03:56 PM   #7
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Quote:
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Did you go larger than M8?
I had them punched to M10, yeah
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Old 07-12-2018, 04:12 PM   #8
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Any clearance issues using M10 nuts on the exhaust housing?
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Old 07-12-2018, 07:27 PM   #9
Wesdunns70t5m
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At this point a machine shop might be my best option. I absolutely suck with a drill for whatever reason. I might just say screw it and go to the straight flange housing. I was originally planning on a quick easy turbo upgrqde, and a better downpipe in the near future. I believe the straight flange will mate right up without drilling or anything. Is this the case? If so I might just say eff it and do the downpipe at the same time. Thanks for all the replies! Keep em coming

Btw, I donít think I could use the hot side off the stock 13c, but I could be wrong. Anyone verify?
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Old 07-12-2018, 07:32 PM   #10
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I have a conical housing with holes already drilled out if you want an easy solution.
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Old 07-12-2018, 08:24 PM   #11
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The way I remove the studs is I heat the stud up from the backside of it with a blow torch, then wait a few minutes and then unscrew it. When you heat up the stud in the hole, it expands, then you wait a few minutes and it cools and gets smaller, then it can be screwed out. That is how you heat up a stud to take it out, you do not heat the metal around the stud... Just the stud.

NO you can not use 13c housing with 15g, the difference is 15g is an HL housing, it's bigger, you put 15g in 13c and crunch, it won't turn, you ruin it.

No the flat flange will not bolt right in, you need the flat flange downpipe flange welded to your downpipe and it's critical on orientation as you can't turn it like you can with your stock 13c conical flange.
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Old 07-12-2018, 10:59 PM   #12
Wesdunns70t5m
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White855 you got pm incoming!!

I will try your method tomorrow sbabbs, I did try heating the stud with a torch, but mustíve not waited for it to cool long enough.

I didnít think the 15g 13c would work for the exact reason you explained. I know the straight flange housing wonít bolt up to the stock downpipe, I was moreso asking about bolting to the manifold. I have a cheap little flux core welder, it ainít pretty but it works haha. Iíve got a 3Ē crush bent downpipe that just needs a flange welded on to mate to the turbo. My original (and hopefully still) plan was to use a conical housing, and weld the stock flange to the 3Ē downpipe. Iím new to welding so once I feel more confident Iíll be replacing the whole exhaust with 3Ē pipe with mandrel bends. I figured in the meantime a 3Ē crush bent will still out perform the stock one, but hey, Iíve been wrong before so who knows.
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