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Help me with my first engine project - timing belt and camshaft change

No rtv on the WP gasket??
I thought I needed a thin layer on both sides? The one I had on the car before tearing it apart had to literally be scraped off the block and the old water pump housing.

Hence why it is to be installed dry. Either way will work, but adding rtv is a waste of time and money. ONLY reason I could see using it is to hold the gasket in place, but I?ve never had an issue with that, I just hang it on the studs.

I?m almost positive volvos instructions are to install dry.
 
Gotcha. I am currently trying to get the timing right on the car. If I set cam lobe #1 to TDC, i’m at +2 degrees advance already??!
and then I simply aligned the key on the camshaft with Dale’s gear. Then I rotated it till I was +4 degrees. Which means I’m not even close to being at TDC. Does this make sense?
 
Gotcha. I am currently trying to get the timing right on the car. If I set cam lobe #1 to TDC, i’m at +2 degrees advance already??!
and then I simply aligned the key on the camshaft with Dale’s gear. Then I rotated it till I was +4 degrees. Which means I’m not even close to being at TDC. Does this make sense?

Honestly, no:lol:

When the cam is at TDC, both marks will be in line with each other. What do you mean it’s 2 degrees advanced already? I’ve never used dales gear. Set it at 0 degrees and see if everything lines up okay. Then try to advance timing.
 
I had cam lobe #1 set to TDC (pointing perpendicular up from engine) and then put the cam pulley/gear on. The pulley will only go on in one orientation. When I do that: I cannot leave the engine at TDC while simultaneously be able to match the notches/marking of the cam gear with the mark on the back timing cover.

What am I missing here?
 
Here are a couple of pics post install:
K0gRoup.jpg

This is at +4 degrees on the dot. The weird camera angle makes it look off.

cBq04wS.jpg


Edit: I did spin the engine by hand (from the crank pulley). After cycling the engine completely once, I could hear the hissing noises (valves opening/closing?). There were marks on the timing belt - which during install were lining up with the notches on the cam gear, intermediate gear and the crank pulley. However, post 1 entire engine rotation, the marks on the timing belt are now shifted 1 tooth over to the right on the cam, intermediate and the crank. Is this normal as well?

Still can't figure out how to get cam lobe #1 at TDC and simultaneously manage to line up the marks on the cam gear with the notch on the back timing cover :grrr:
 
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The marks on the timing belt are only for initial install. They won't line up any more after that, you'll just need to look at the timing marks on the engine.

That does not look like 4 degrees BTDC to me, if anything it looks like you retarded the cam timing. But again I've never messed with that gear so idk
 
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F?€?!!!! I didn’t realize about the advance/retard :grrr:
Gotta re-do it now again

I’m guessing there’s no way to do this without taking the TB off correct?
 
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A good reference for putting the cam timing at number one firing is to make sure the dowel pin is pointing up. You'll see both lobes up on number one and you can install the pulley with the +4 mark lined up with the mark on the plastic rear cover. That should give you four degrees advance.
 
A good reference for putting the cam timing at number one firing is to make sure the dowel pin is pointing up. You'll see both lobes up on number one and you can install the pulley with the +4 mark lined up with the mark on the plastic rear cover. That should give you four degrees advance.

Very helpful. Makes it a lot more clearer for me.
 
No rtv on the WP gasket??
I thought I needed a thin layer on both sides? The one I had on the car before tearing it apart had to literally be scraped off the block and the old water pump housing.

I've always used Permatex Type 2 non-hardening sealer.
 
I've always used Permatex Type 2 non-hardening sealer.

It can be used but only makes a mess for the next time you do one. I see no point using any sealant on the paper gasket. Never ever had one leak. I?ve made my own gaskets out of one of these and it even sealed fine.

811018_p
 
No rtv on the WP gasket??
I thought I needed a thin layer on both sides? The one I had on the car before tearing it apart had to literally be scraped off the block and the old water pump housing.

A thin layer of RTV is not a bad idea if you want make it easier to install (and remove). It won't harm the gaskets ability to seal. Promisering doesn't have much more experience than you.
 
A thin layer of RTV is not a bad idea if you want make it easier to install (and remove). It won't harm the gaskets ability to seal. Promisering doesn't have much more experience than you.

It won?t harm anything but it?s far from necessary.

Landos career consists of trolling TBOT, take his advice with a grain of salt.
 
Op, not sure if mentioned already by you should get the Volvo top hat seal. The after market ones are too soft.
 
Op, not sure if mentioned already by you should get the Volvo top hat seal. The after market ones are too soft.

Though I too recommend volvo OE seals, all 3 of my aftermarket top seals have had no issues sealing properly. Perhaps you should leave this type of work to professionals instead of trying to do it yourself.
 
Though I too recommend volvo OE seals, all 3 of my aftermarket top seals have had no issues sealing properly. Perhaps you should leave this type of work to professionals instead of trying to do it yourself.

:roll: Keep the trolling in OT. I've installed that seal on plenty more than three vehicles. The softer seal can weep slowly or I've even seen one split and leak pretty fast a few years after install. There's seals you can use after market and there's ones you can't. Now, that's not quite a seal you cant aftermarket, but it's almost a seal you can't aftermarket.

Focus more on reading, learning and understanding and the being right part will come on it's own.
 
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I wasn’t aware that I needed Volvo OE top seal on the WP. I got the Hepu brand water pump and am kinda hoping it works out because I need that car running this weekend.

Unless any of you here feels super strongly for the OE seal and against the HEPU version?
 
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