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1979 242DL - Analog Motoring

A step forward on the NVH front...
I changed from my 45.25" Mustang driveshaft to a 46" driveshaft from Pit Stop USA (PST310460) (link) which allowed me to use the Aerostar dampened slip yoke I bought a while ago. End result is that some driveline vibrations are eliminated and that the decel rattle is reduced, but not totally gone. It is really only noticeable during engine braking right between about 2500 and 2750 rpm instead of up to 3500 rpm as before, so I'll chalk that up to a success.

Pic for reference.
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This is my EXACT experience with the damper, I still get the rattles from 2500 to 2800 RPM, but reduced/eliminated elsewhere.

I'd like to get a set of the hybrid torque rods for my car me thinks.

Also, I love that the DS is white! In the dirt track world they are required to be white so if one "jumps" out of a car, it can be seen on the track. :cool:
 
Issue 1) Erratic boost behavior
-WGA bracket was flexing under WG preload, shimmed it to remove flex
-removed MBC and added a stiffer WGA spring (trial and error, the Kinugawa springs are not exactly as advertised…currently using a “1.2 bar” spring)
-fixed some boost leaks (hot side hose, brake booster check valve, EVAP check valve)
-now boosts a consistent 12-13psi

Issue 2) Driveshaft rubbing over bumps when accelerating
-raised rear of car ~1/2” via large washers above the upper rear spring seat
-pinion angle is ~0.5* nose down

Issue 3) Coolant venting from reservoir during high rpm driving
-based on others experiences, suspect a cavitating water pump
-sourced a larger water pump pulley and a KL Racing underdrive crank pulley
-needed 2x shorter belts (15350)
-no more coolant spray under the hood!

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Also was tired of the Virgo wheels and replaced them with a set of Aries (thanks Billy780).

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Overall I’m very happy with the car now. It really rips when the boost comes on and NVH is acceptable.
 
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Nice update Mike, have you noticed any charging issues with the smaller pulley?

My car has a 100 alt in it, and with the AC and headlights on I can pretty much bury the voltmeter, that would be a concern of mine to sort before going with an underdrive pulley.
 
Nice update Mike, have you noticed any charging issues with the smaller pulley?

I checked tonight and at a warm idle, I'm getting a steady 13.4v at the battery with the headlights on (stock 80A alternator). I think this is slightly lower than the last time I checked the voltage before swapping pulleys.

Took some better pics since I was able to give it a wash over the weekend.

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dang

Don't post often but reading through that has defiantly been inspiring! Very detailed write up as well, some of the resources and links will be very useful for my 77 240, so thanks for that gathered info!

Just got a welder excited to move forward with plans for my 240+T!

Keep the fabing up, and hopefully your out trolling some other cars that may think the 240s a slouch!
 
I dig those wheels. Nice car.

Thanks!

Beautiful car. Tastefully done

Thanks!

Don't post often but reading through that has defiantly been inspiring! Very detailed write up as well, some of the resources and links will be very useful for my 77 240, so thanks for that gathered info!

Just got a welder excited to move forward with plans for my 240+T!

Keep the fabing up, and hopefully your out trolling some other cars that may think the 240s a slouch!

Thanks! Glad to contribute to the community.
 
I'm still amazed that you were able to pull it back from the brink. Shows you want persistence and some elbow grease can do. Nice upgrades too. What a save, the car looks great!
 
Been following this thread for a while. You and I have very similar setups, I've got a 79 245 w/B230FT rebuilt, 15g, catch can, t5, and lots of other stuff. It's really fun to look at how well done your car is and aspire for mine. Nice work, keep it up!

Did you have any oil leak issues after your turbo stuff? I'm using a T block and using all factory stuff, relocation bit, cooler, and have just found the biggest leak of them to be coming from the pressure sensor. New one in hand, hoping to get it done tomorrow.
 
Been following this thread for a while. You and I have very similar setups, I've got a 79 245 w/B230FT rebuilt, 15g, catch can, t5, and lots of other stuff. It's really fun to look at how well done your car is and aspire for mine. Nice work, keep it up!

Did you have any oil leak issues after your turbo stuff? I'm using a T block and using all factory stuff, relocation bit, cooler, and have just found the biggest leak of them to be coming from the pressure sensor. New one in hand, hoping to get it done tomorrow.

Thanks! It's been a mostly fun process. I had a minor oil leak at the turbo oil feed and drain when I first got things put together. The feed leak was due to my error in making a braided hose and the drain leak was fixed by using some Aviation Form-a-Gasket on a new gasket at the turbo.

I use my oil pressure sensor port for my turbo oil feed and remote mounted a tee on the frame rail for the oil pressure sensor. It has been working great so far.
 
-replaced the 240T muffler & tailpipe with a 2.5" Dynomax 17222 Ultra-Flow muffler and a 90* bend & tailpipe from Advance Auto. I did this mainly to make the exhaust a bit louder. It now has a deeper tone at idle and is slightly louder in the cabin when driving. If it added an hp or two because of less restriction, that's a bonus.

(FWIW, the Starla/Walker 240T exhaust piping is 2.25" but the 2.5" Dynomax muffler was cheaper than the 2.25" version...nothing an adapter can't solve)

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-made a Delrin sleeve for my shifter rod to make the shift boot fit better and overall have a more integrated look with the shift knob.
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Fitted together a 3" downpipe and had a coworker weld it for me.
Wasn't expecting much difference with the rest of the exhaust being ~2.25", but figured it can't hurt. Seems a little smoother/quicker to build boost.
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Overall the car is running really well, but I am still noticing some coolant burping after running it through the gears up to over 5k. It's not as bad as before changing to the KL underdrive pulley, but still happens. If I drive normally it doesn't vent any coolant. I think I have a Hepu water pump, but don't recall exactly. From reading other threads it seems like the pump starts to cavitate around 5k, but it should be spinning less than that with the underdrive pulley. :???: I pulled the plugs to see if one looked steam cleaned as an indicator of a headgasket issue, but they look ok to me. Is this one of those things that are just the nature of the beast?
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Plugs look fine. That cavitation is normal for a stamped impeller water pump at high rpm. My engine uses a HEPU and gets very toasty if I maintain high RPM. I was shocked when it happened the first time.
 
Plugs look fine. That cavitation is normal for a stamped impeller water pump at high rpm. My engine uses a HEPU and gets very toasty if I maintain high RPM. I was shocked when it happened the first time.

Interesting.

What are your impressions of the kl racing pulley after putting some miles on the car with it?

The only really noticeable difference is that the engine fan is quieter. I don't have ps or ac so I can't comment if those accessories would be impacted by the underdrive pulley, but for my application it's been working fine.
 
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