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sanding technique?

it will never look 'good' with rattle cans.
listen to red he know's his paint. From my experience, it's a tough job to do well and takes a lot of time. Get some half decent paint and please do not use primer as your main coat...for your brick's sake. I spent about 40-50 hours prepping my wagon and then about $220 on paint used through a compressor gun...painted outside. The job looks pretty good from 10 feet, and I can only imagine that if I went cheaper and slacker, it would look crap. Do it right or wait until u have funds....or have a ****ty looker!

ps to answer original question, I used 400 to get it down to primer, then 600 to smoothen it down. The most annoying bit to get off was the black weather stripping under the windows.
 
if you're just gonna use primer, 800 sanding is fine, you can use it dry, no wetsanding needed.

if ya wanna use actual paint, even 800 is a bit harsh, you'd at least need 1000 sand, tho...
if you need to fix dents, you obviously need to use bondo and rougher sanding, once you've done that, you sand over the bondoed part with 400 paper, use some rattlecan filler on the 400 spot, then sand that down with the 1000 paper to match the rest of the body, then you can spray it.

this can all be done dry, just wash the car properly with some clean paper, and silicone remover, then don't touch the car after, fingerprints contains oil that'll make the paint not stick too good.
 
single stage maaco paint is not terrible, but you have to do some work if you want it to look good. i think rob(volvorules) did a single stage and he just cut and buffed it and it does not look too bad:)
 
Mesoam said:
believe it or not i have heard a number of people have pretty good luck with this...

prepping, pulling all trim, putting some junk wheels on e/t/c
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Yeah, mine came out good. Had them chemical strip down to bare metal, no rust no bondo underneath, just 3 coats of grey.

I let it die though when the car pissed me off. Parked it in direct high altitude sun for 4 years with no wax on it at all.
Kinda lost it's sheen where the sun hits and the shiny stuff has fallen off, still paint color underneath, just no shine.
 
I would use industrial DuPont Imron 333 single stage. It comes in satin, flat, and gloss. It is also an activated two part urethane just like car paint. Good enough for oil refinery, good enough for volvo.
 
Surf Brick said:
I would use industrial DuPont Imron 333 single stage. It comes in satin, flat, and gloss. It is also an activated two part urethane just like car paint. Good enough for oil refinery, good enough for volvo.
Click to expand...

You guys listen to the ^ :WORD: ^

Surfbrick knows paint better than anyone on here,
hands down no exceptions.
 
Didn't read the thread.

320-400 wet, avoid the corners and edges til you're done with the flats.
 
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