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Redblock transmission options

kendogg

V8 Guy
Joined
Jan 4, 2010
Location
Atlanta, GA
Sooo, what are the choices these days? Is it still mostly T5's & G265's?

I ask because we're toying with the idea of doing a stupid swap, on the cheap side. 16v turbo reblock making 300-400 wheel in an E36 ti drift car. Whatever trans that goes behind it needs to be able to handle abuse - regularly flat-shifting 2>3, sometimes 3>4, and pulling down into 2nd and dropping the clutch. I'm sure the BMW gearbox would do fine, but they're kinda expensive and hard to find these days. Are there many other options out there these days?

And whats it take to bolt these trans options to the motor?
 
It's pretty much T5. You need adapter plates and a crap load of parts from random cars depending on what your plan is. I'm doing it rn and I hate it.
 
A TKO500 wont take it. Have one here im putting new synchros in soon that's behind a 480 whp LS drift car and its ruined 2nd & 3rd gears synchro.

Tremec tells us their 'optional' carbon synchros are better, but....how much better is always the question.
 
I seem to get scolded for suggesting T56 behind a redblock, but they sure seem to be pretty stout which means they're both strong and presumably large/heavy?
 
I seem to get scolded for suggesting T56 behind a redblock, but they sure seem to be pretty stout which means they're both strong and presumably large/heavy?

They're extremely overpriced junk and won't take anymore than 500 ft./lbs without grenading. Sure it meets the power requirement, but....a $300 BMW ZF box will hold more torque.


Which, I have a feeling, is the direction this project will go. Get the cheapest (or free) auto trans or whatever that we can, cut the flange off the bellhousing, and weld it to a ZF. I have one under the bench that grinds 2nd. It will grind forever without breaking. And if it does - whatever. Test mule. I gave $40 for it.
 
They're extremely overpriced junk and won't take anymore than 500 ft./lbs without grenading. Sure it meets the power requirement, but....a $300 BMW ZF box will hold more torque.


Keep saying that and maybe it'll be true..

But!
so what if it holds torque if the gear ratios are utterly useless? (Except for a car that will be run on freeways with unlimited speed---and in conjunction with astronomically tall axle ratios like 2.87:1 or 3.08)
 
Keep saying that and maybe it'll be true..

But!
so what if it holds torque if the gear ratios are utterly useless? (Except for a car that will be run on freeways with unlimited speed---and in conjunction with astronomically tall axle ratios like 2.87:1 or 3.08)



You're the only person I know who thinks the BMW ratios are 'utterly useless'. I think they work pretty well. They always have.
 

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Crap load? You only need a pilot bearing, clutch and the adapter.

The clutch/pp options become challenging unless you just want something standard though.

If you want Kennedy, you need spacers. If you want Saab you need to wait forever for availability. If you want Yoshi you need to spend monies. If you go to clutchnet... dunno honestly bc I haven't done it yet. You're not wrong... it's only a few parts but it does get tedious to chase it all down man... unless you spend crazy money and just buy everyone's off the shelf stuff.

Also re: transmission suggestions where I said it's pretty much T5, I had assumed the OP was talking manuals.
 
If people are so inclined... there was a thread I started a few months back about is the T5 still the defacto and one of the other viable options that emerged were the gearboxes out of the Nissan 350z's as a possibility. It really comes down to getting the ratios you want, and finding something with close enough dimensions. Then... just doing it.
 
so what's the final drive in those bimmers?


I had a 2.79 open in this car years ago when it was my DD. Got ~34 mpg on the highway. Swapped that for a 2.93 lsd when I found one real cheap. The 2.93 was OK, but would bog trying to drift in 3rd gear with only ~190 whp. Recently swapped that to a 3.73 lsd, which netted me about 12 mph more in the top of 3rd than I had with the 2.93 at the top of 2nd. Works very well, can easily run 3rd gear sideways now.
 
The clutch/pp options become challenging unless you just want something standard though.

If you want Kennedy, you need spacers. If you want Saab you need to wait forever for availability. If you want Yoshi you need to spend monies. If you go to clutchnet... dunno honestly bc I haven't done it yet. You're not wrong... it's only a few parts but it does get tedious to chase it all down man... unless you spend crazy money and just buy everyone's off the shelf stuff.

Also re: transmission suggestions where I said it's pretty much T5, I had assumed the OP was talking manuals.

I have a local clutch builder that does great work (and Competition Clutch is only about 45 minutes away too). I can get anything built locally and for a good price, so thats not an issue.

If people are so inclined... there was a thread I started a few months back about is the T5 still the defacto and one of the other viable options that emerged were the gearboxes out of the Nissan 350z's as a possibility. It really comes down to getting the ratios you want, and finding something with close enough dimensions. Then... just doing it.


Ya, the CD009 is becoming the go-to for a lot of LS guys. Good gearbox.
 
Yoshifab and jegs for a t5 swap is what I'm doing. Not exactly cheap, but everything I'm getting is new and going to fit together with no problems.
 
You're the only person I know who thinks the BMW ratios are 'utterly useless'. I think they work pretty well. They always have.

They are fit for a pick up.--if the car they are in has ratios resembling "normal" diff ratios..
You post photo of one car..evidently drifting in a specific what looks like very tight drift track..

Is that supposed to "prove" the old street car Getrag 265 ratios---which IS the Getrag we are talking about in this context---are "good" and thus "prove" something?

I don't get it.
 
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