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YASVT (Yet Another Sixteen Valve Turbo) - now 16V Whiteblock (LS)

I'm just using the Volvo 260 hydraulic master. I checked the size - it's 3/4" bore. Same as the Camaro has with the same T56 clutch slave.
 
JohnMc said:
I'm just using the Volvo 260 hydraulic master. I checked the size - it's 3/4" bore. Same as the Camaro has with the same T56 clutch slave.
Click to expand...

I'm waiting for the results on the use of that master clutch cylinder with the T56 slave... I was under the assumption that I would need a bigger bore master.
 
I did double check the sizes. But then I do see people running larger master cylinders (by a little bit - 13/16" or 7/8") for 'performance' shifting on T56's.

The main complaint on the stock GM 3/4" master cylinder seems to be related to a tiny orifice built into it to slow the clutch action down, likely done to help lengthen the drivetrain lifespan.
 
JohnMc said:
I did double check the sizes. But then I do see people running larger master cylinders (by a little bit - 13/16" or 7/8") for 'performance' shifting on T56's.

The main complaint on the stock GM 3/4" master cylinder seems to be related to a tiny orifice built into it to slow the clutch action down, likely done to help lengthen the drivetrain lifespan.
Click to expand...

Then, given the relatively cheap price of the Wilwood MCC I'll probably go that route for my setup...
 
Built mountain bike trail all morning, then came home and got ALL SORTS OF STUFF DONE.

OK, not really. All I did was finally stick the transmission on the engine for real. Clutch installed, master cylinder in and plumbed (long line for the master cylinder, 12" remote bleeder as well).

IMG_20180922_152236_zpsforr3ftp.jpg


Now to see if I can stick it in the car in one piece.
 
Have you gotten it to the 1/4 yet with the new drivetrain? Just wondering what #s you'd see. Sorry, I might be just really hopeful! :D

(also BTW the pics at the very beginning of the thread seem to be toast?)
 
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Lol, no, I have been in a bad combination of busy and lazy. Doing other stuff. I really haven't touched it in about a month.

I need to mess around with the heater firewall connection. And stick the engine back in for good (lol, maybe, but really lol).

I was just perusing C4 radiators on eBay about 10 minutes ago. Didn't buy anything yet.
 
Actually got a slight bit more work done ion this yesterday. It was a small 'housekeeping' task that needed to be done - replacing the heater control valve. It's been stuck part-way on for a while now. Doing that now because I was putting on a super shiny neat looking STS machining firewall heater hose fitting (the one-piece predecessor to this: https://www.stsmachininginc.com/pro...rewall-port-303-stainless-steel-1975-1993-240 ) - with the engine-side pipes that point to the left away from the LS engine.

Oy vey, that was not a fun task. At all. The heater control valve was clearly not designed to be replaced in the car, since you had to bend several metal things out of the way to get enough room to get it out. Then you had to adjust the cable and fasten a spring clip 98% blind and working through a small opening. All while cramming your body into the driver's side footwell. I think I spent about an hour and a half, two hours wrestling around under there before finishing up.

The old valve's control lever still moved, but the inside part doesn't budge. I bought a replacement kit from IPD a few years ago and just never got around to putting it in.

On the plus side, the kit had instructions for -91 cars that had MANY more steps. Apparently, those used an older style valve that is hard to find these days, the kit basically updated older cars to use the 92+ valve. So I got to skip over half of the steps. Which likely preserved my health and sanity.

On the inside of the firewall heater hose fitting, apparently the 92+ cars have one of the pipes curving downward, and a much shorter hose to the control valve. But the STS firewall part has two short straight hose fittings, the -91 configuration. But since I had this IPD kit, it basically has all the parts to convert from the early style to the later, so I had a correct shaped hose to go from the old (and STS) style fitting to the new style control valve. All's well that ends well.

Now I just need to stick the engine in again and start hooking things up, measure for a driveshaft, order a radiator, order some fuel rails. The LS6 fuel rails seem to fight with the truck coils for position, I figured a simple set of eBay fuel rails would cure that.

I have also decided to just leave the Volvo rear axle in for now, stick the modified Ford 8.8 back in the corner of the garage and deal with that as a separate project. I'll just have my existing T5 one-piece driveshaft shortened a little and get the Nissan yoke on it. I'll deal with keeping the BAS and speedometer working with the Ford's speed sensor later on (something like 136 teeth! Various options on how to deal with that...). And getting a new set of wheels to match the 4.5" bolt pattern.
 
JohnMc said:
Actually got a slight bit more work done ion this yesterday. It was a small 'housekeeping' task that needed to be done - replacing the heater control valve. It's been stuck part-way on for a while now. Doing that now because I was putting on a super shiny neat looking STS machining firewall heater hose fitting (the one-piece predecessor to this: https://www.stsmachininginc.com/pro...rewall-port-303-stainless-steel-1975-1993-240 ) - with the engine-side pipes that point to the left away from the LS engine.

Oy vey, that was not a fun task. At all. The heater control valve was clearly not designed to be replaced in the car, since you had to bend several metal things out of the way to get enough room to get it out. Then you had to adjust the cable and fasten a spring clip 98% blind and working through a small opening. All while cramming your body into the driver's side footwell. I think I spent about an hour and a half, two hours wrestling around under there before finishing up.

The old valve's control lever still moved, but the inside part doesn't budge. I bought a replacement kit from IPD a few years ago and just never got around to putting it in.

On the plus side, the kit had instructions for -91 cars that had MANY more steps. Apparently, those used an older style valve that is hard to find these days, the kit basically updated older cars to use the 92+ valve. So I got to skip over half of the steps. Which likely preserved my health and sanity.

On the inside of the firewall heater hose fitting, apparently the 92+ cars have one of the pipes curving downward, and a much shorter hose to the control valve. But the STS firewall part has two short straight hose fittings, the -91 configuration. But since I had this IPD kit, it basically has all the parts to convert from the early style to the later, so I had a correct shaped hose to go from the old (and STS) style fitting to the new style control valve. All's well that ends well.

Now I just need to stick the engine in again and start hooking things up, measure for a driveshaft, order a radiator, order some fuel rails. The LS6 fuel rails seem to fight with the truck coils for position, I figured a simple set of eBay fuel rails would cure that.

I have also decided to just leave the Volvo rear axle in for now, stick the modified Ford 8.8 back in the corner of the garage and deal with that as a separate project. I'll just have my existing T5 one-piece driveshaft shortened a little and get the Nissan yoke on it. I'll deal with keeping the BAS and speedometer working with the Ford's speed sensor later on (something like 136 teeth! Various options on how to deal with that...). And getting a new set of wheels to match the 4.5" bolt pattern.
Click to expand...

lemme know what you figure out on the 8.8 speedo deal. I've been trying to find someone to cut a 48 tooth wheel to work with the oe abs and all that.
 
I see you can get 49 tooth wheels, and I have no idea if that's close enough to work properly or not. 2% off - not sure what amount of slip the old Bosch computer will react to. Or that that style of ring would even fit in my axle, apparently there are several non-compatible types of tone rings.

Another option was to (maybe) chop out all but 48 teeth from the stock Ford wheel, even if that doesn't leave a totally even pattern, it would probably work well enough. Taking out every 2.25 teeth - 60 total. In a slightly syncopated pattern: | _ | _ | _ | _ _ | _ | _ | _ | _ _ ... Again, not sure how the ABS computer would react to the well distributed pattern of missing teeth, Better or worse than 49 teeth evenly distributed?

Last option that I know of was to get a Dakota Digital box and let it do a signal conversion. They do explicitly state not to use it with an ABS system, but that might just be CYA. Maybe it works, I've seen a few posts around the internet where people have tried it on various ABS systems and it worked. http://www.dakotadigital.com/index....ct_id=126/category_id=-1/mode=prod/prd126.htm
 
Got slightly motivated this weekend and stuck the motor in the car. I wasn't sure the LS and the CD009 would fit in bolted together, but it wasn't bad. I did have to lift the front of the car a little, and the back of the car a lot, to get it to all work properly, but with a few minor bumps and scrapes, it went in.

Then I had to make a small cutout on the front driver side of the shifter hole in the trans tunnel. Far less metal chopping than the shortest rear mount shifter would have taken, but the shifter stub was hitting the metal there. I took a 4" hole saw and chopped out a crescent-shaped chunk.

And I finally got the last bit of the shifter kit from CBF performance (originally ordered in late April) - the offset shifter handle. So despite the shifter on the trans being a bit forward and offset to the driver's side, the lever itself will be pretty much centered in the regular shifter opening.


Now I can measure for the driveshaft and get that cooking up at a local driveline company. Possibly have them shorten my existing 1-pc T5 shaft and stick a Nissan slip collar on the front?

And figure out the cooling system. And hook up the injection system, hopefully that will be a breeze because I got that 'Gold Box' setup, with computer and prebuilt LS harness. Plug in 20 different connectors and crank it up!
 
JohnMc said:
Got slightly motivated this weekend and stuck the motor in the car. I wasn't sure the LS and the CD009 would fit in bolted together, but it wasn't bad. I did have to lift the front of the car a little, and the back of the car a lot, to get it to all work properly, but with a few minor bumps and scrapes, it went in.
Click to expand...

made me think about the crazy angles and levering they had to do to wedge the engine and transmission back into a Countach

Install3.jpg
 
I did go from one end clear to the other on my load leveler. It would be a lot easier to fit in if I'd ever taken off the radiator/headlight support panel in front, but that's all still in place.
 
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