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The unwanted LS 240

Excellent stuff! This is exactly the sort of thing I joined this forum for haha. Would love to do this to one of these but people want silly money for half decent 240s in the UK
 
Minor update on the engine situation:

Teardown roughly complete. Left oil pan on for now but everything else was pretty much removed. Decided to paint the valve covers because you pretty much have to when you remove them, its tradition.

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Upon removing them I noticed a heavy color difference on the rocker arms. This normal or is one side getting hot/oil starved?

"Good" side:
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"Bad?" side:
v2nQtFw.jpg


Let me know your thoughts on that, might just be worrying too much.

Heres the rest of the photos on the current state of the motor!

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Use Imgur or other photo sharing site that isn't Photobucket, there is a bunch of threads on this. Just don't use Photobucket, it sucks (censored) things.

You have always been allowed to post pics, they just can't be hosted unless you contribute $ to the site. Which I noticed you haven't, so photo hosting sites are the way to go.
 
Removed broken exhaust studs and old spark plugs today. Spark plugs are SCARY bad. Hoping the previous owner just never changed them. Looks like they used a lot of fuel additives and never changed the plugs. Still seems like a solid motor so continuing on.

Looking for LS intake at the moment.
 
Couple good updates here:

1 - heres a pic of the old plugs. Tell me what you guys think, be worried already or they just look poorly maintained?

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2 & 3 -

Due to the amount of 240s I've stripped in my time I have a LARGE bank of parts, however they are all from newer model 240s. Due to the nature of my career being much more lucrative in the summer, I have to watch my spending in the winter so I have been finding cool things to do with this car that cost me little to no money. (Which means the brunt of the "swap" part of the build is on hold for a more "restoration" part of the build).

That said, I had a VERY nice, later model 240 dash that I wanted to swap into my early model 240. Took the day getting everything swapped over and WOW does it look a million times better. To finish that off I also added in an appropriately colored center console, and emergency brake cover. Lastly I had some older brown carpet laying around too. I shampooed it heavily, put it in the car - and this thing is looking SPECTACULAR. Loving this new progress, take a look!

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To really drive home the transformation, heres a small before and after:
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Also found out that the bench seats from a wagon fit in the back! I had no intentions of having rear seats but if I can mount these easily enough... I would like the normal look of having them.

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I didn’t think the rear seat from a wagon worked in a 242 or 244??? I just passed up a really nice black/grey one in a 245...better go see if it’s still there I guess.
 
rear seats !!!

i guess whatever it takes to get her going right?
I redid my rear seats in my wagon cause I changed the front seats from a Mazda 3 black to red and the rear seats had some cigarette burns , so i took the center part of the same car that donated the front seats and stitched them into rear seats,( part factory upholstery, part Mazda rear seat centers) they came out pretty good for a first timer .
Seeya
dz:oogle:
 
So uh. Sorry for the radio silence I caught the bug (for LS swaps, not COVID) and forgot the updates.

Last everyone saw I restored the interior... so here we go with a MASSIVE (seriously) update...

First off:

I ordered some essentials. Giffins mounts, Hooker "style" headers.

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and powder coated the mounts, and later cerakoted the headers:

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You can see by that photo I also got an LS6 manifold, and ICT Valley cover to delete the knock sensors (not required, but looked cool)

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Put new spark plugs in for the future, installed STS steering shaft and I did my first test fit:

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Battery tray area was COMPLETELY rusted. Never did get a good enough photo but trust me the battery stand and areas of the fender were VERY rusted. (You can kinda see in the pic above) So I tackled that as my first ever attempt at body work:

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Figured if I did all that work, I had to pull the motor back out anyway - lets paint the bay! (I was waiting for parts and got bored)

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Have a ton more to show off, but dont have the pics on hand so I'll get those today for another post. However, pulled fuel pump assembly out to attach the Walbro 255 I got... and realized this part is going to be a lot harder than I thought...

Sooooo here's what my dumb*** decided to attempt - I will post photos as I go along, but I'm waiting for fittings to arrive (hopefully tomorrow)

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^ Removed stock fuel pump, and cut return line shorter to make room for bigger pump

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Cut, and drilled out all the other hoses as I will be kinda setting up my own here... itll make sense in the next pic

Oyyovxk.jpg


And here's how I am hoping to make this work:
GRND: Ground wire passthrough
X: Just weld this closed
Two Black Dots: Drill out for sender wire and power wire
6AN: 2x -6AN Bulkeahd 90 degree fittings with tube nuts to create my feed and return lines.

Will advise how stupid this idea was soon.

Thats all for this post. Expect TONS of progress.
 
Other updates:

Installed Wilwood Clutch master (dont mind the saw dust, friend is working on a wood project near my car...)

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Painted, and installed brake booster after attaching a Mustang GT master cylinder that will cope with the bigger brakes

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ALMOST installed the TSP oil pan, but I'm kinda iffy on the idea of not using the factory LS windage tray... and in my haste I threw it away so I ordered a new one and will likely utilize it. So it hasnt gotten bolted on yet sadly. Anyone have info on whether you need to still use the factory windage tray in conjunction withe the TSP baffle tray?

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Got a bellhousing from FABbot which was a mistake on my part. I was under the impression they did the machining before they sent them but nope - they just send you a regular bellhousing fresh out of the junk yard for $80 instead of the same thing on eBay for $50... anyway... cleaned it (it was quite dirty) and painted it. Hoping because I got the NEXGEN kit I wont need to do any machining anyway which would make me less bitter about the $30 extra I spent., and got a battery.

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And my Holley Terminator X arrived yesterday........

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Wow I thought the guy did the cleanup for you. He should for that price...damn bellhousings are basically free.

Next Gen kit is supposed to eliminate machining the bellhousing. I have a nextgen kit sitting here for my 740 driftmobile.
 
Wow I thought the guy did the cleanup for you. He should for that price...damn bellhousings are basically free.

Next Gen kit is supposed to eliminate machining the bellhousing. I have a nextgen kit sitting here for my 740 driftmobile.

Yeah, the website is very vague about what you get. It explains that the bellhousing gets cleaned, machined, poweder coated, and sent to you - yet then you have to pick specific options of what you want done. Its confusing and I made the mistake of assuming that the options you had to pick from were EXTRA besides what was already explained in the product description... but no - apparently for $80 you get a straight from junkyard bellhousing. You have to pay nearly $150 to get it prepped. ANYWAY - yes, hoping my NEXGEN kit means none of this matters and I can just chalk the $30 up to supporting small business.
 
Starting assembling the FABbot kit today, only to have the feed fitting get ruined by my stupidity. On the bright side, my NEXGen kit means I do not have to do any custom bellhousing work - and after talking with the owner of FABbot about me ruining the adapter, I could not be more impressed/pleased with his customer service. Thus - I retract everything I said about the bellhousing. Possibly a fluke in that it didnt get cleaned, but regardless the guy is awesome and I am proud my $30 went to supporting that customer service.

742zNxt.jpg
 
Cut, and drilled out all the other hoses as I will be kinda setting up my own here... itll make sense in the next pic

Oyyovxk.jpg


And here's how I am hoping to make this work:
GRND: Ground wire passthrough
X: Just weld this closed
Two Black Dots: Drill out for sender wire and power wire
6AN: 2x -6AN Bulkeahd 90 degree fittings with tube nuts to create my feed and return lines.

Will advise how stupid this idea was soon.

Thats all for this post. Expect TONS of progress.

Curious to see the final result, I planned to do something similar.
 
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