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beepee's 1990 740 'SE', Leakzilla, AKA The Emulsifier

Sir Psycho said:
What header was it?
Click to expand...

It was a lightweight header TLAO made. Plenty of pics in the OP.

It definitely spooled a bit faster than the stock one i'm using now. Unfortunately I really wasn't set up for it.. I melted two or three SETS of plug wires, even with thermal sleeves and boot socks. I heat wrapped the header as part of my effort to prevent more melting. The heat wrap eventually caused it to crack from excessive heat... most notably when Kenny was helping me tune at MMR during SE. Sam did some emergency welding to get me home.. thanks again man!

Anyway, tuning is on hold because the MS2/stock VR setup has begun showing signs of Seasonal Affective Disorder. Short term solution will be to wire sensor directly to MS; currently it is going through a PnP adapter I made. Then play with the pots! Fun!

Long term solution is replacing stock VR with a hall effect sensor. Did some research and found out the sensor DIYAutoTune sells is a Hamlin 55505 Gear Tooth Sensor, which is available cheaper elsewhere. I found the adapter shim I bought specifically for this in my glove box so it should be a matter of wiring it in.

Question: The sensor can run from 5-24 volts. I know that it works well when fed into the VR circuit, but what voltage is best? 5v from MS, or 12v from harness? I am leaning towards 12v because it will be easier and the output SNR will be higher... not that it matters too much for a logic signal.

Also found out that running power inverter --> laptop --> USB --> serial --> Megasquirt creates a bunch of noise in my sensor readings. Gotta be a ground loop or something. I have a tiny TTL RS232 to Bluetooth PCB sitting around... really thinking about getting that thing installed.

But again, what really needs to be done is replacing the **** factory harness and snarl of a PnP adapter I made... ugh. Only thing that is stopping me is that it drives, and I am DDing it and enjoying it very much. Afraid if I start on the harness now it won't get finished soon.

Going in for second lower back rhizotomy on the 14th. Fingers crossed, cause leaning over the motor hurts!
 
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the other thing you can do is get the jbperf vr board and run that instead of the v3 vr circuit. I wired one straight up to the wheel sensors on the 940 and it picked up and worked without issue, nothing to adjust, no resistors, nada
 
Factory harness out.
Wasted spark mods done to MS.
MS harness going in.
EBC going in.

lots of work ahead.
 
Car runs again. Factory harness out!


Gross.


What a disaster.



Work-in-progress photo.


Hall sensor. Had to shave some off the adapter but works great now, first try even.


Wasted spark is working, still lots of tidying up to do...
 
300 zipties later, went for a test drive. Holy **** wasted spark makes a difference. Runs much smoother, pulls smoother, everything is smoother.

Also hall sensor upgrade is 100% worth it. Composite logger is suuuuper steady now. $18 at mouser electronics, totally worth every penny.

Ready as **** to DD this guy again :oogle:... it's been a week without boost and it sucked.
 
Learned some things tonight:


Oh where oh where...

...could it be?


Hmm, apparently all that surface rust on my exhaust doesn't affect conductivity much at 700 degrees:


Would have preferred it not happened at 70mph on the highway at 4am or whatever. Heh.

Runs real nice. Moving from one injector driver to two (and maybe because no-more ****-harness) has bumped my AFRs like 2 points richer.

Totally didn't start messing with semi-sequential injection as soon as it was idling right. That would be foolish.

Bay shot:


Also, a little heatshrink and your spade connectors look much less ghetto
 
20psi achieved, thanks MrBill.

I NEED A ****ING PCV SOLUTION

****ING DRAFT TUBE FELL OFF ****ING BREATHER BOX

MY NICE CLEAN NEW WIRING HARNESS IS ****ING SOAKED

EVERYTHING IS ****ING SOAKED

**** **** **** ****

R5bhEBE.gif
 
harribert said:
**********.
Click to expand...
Exactly.

boosted12a said:
catch can? eh, shoulda used mor zip ties
Click to expand...
I was counting when doing the harness, but I lost count around 100.

grnmachine02 said:
I gave a catch can to Ian for use on Wilbur. See if he still has it?
Click to expand...
I was given a nice looking blue aluminum catch can with a view pipe at some point; maybe that is it?

blkaplan said:
Seems like everything is back to situation normal ehh?

Why do you need a road draft tube? Is your motor that ****ed?
Click to expand...

I don't think the motor is ****ed. Not like the dipstick is jumping out or anything, and the oil cap isn't weeping or anything. It doesn't really blow oil unless I beat on it for a while.

I was looking at mounting the catch can last night. Right now the only easily accessible space is above the downpipe where the A/C stuff used to be. Kinda want to put it further away. I want to make some room near the front of the bay where the airbox used to be. I also need to re-do the expansion tank setup. The hose going to the radiator is just barely long enough, and the BnE engineered bracket installed at SE:X after the tank exploded is getting wobbly.

Will probably redo both in the short term. For now, road draft tube has been hose clamped to the breather box fitting and dumps directly on the downpipe... previously it was just a snug fit.

Ian and I installed a MBC last night and turned it up to 20psi. During WOT pulls it takes forever to get to 20psi, almost until the rev limiter (6500). With the MBC set that high you can clearly hear it sucking vacuum through the MBC so I believe the EBC will help.

Gonna look at mounting the EBC (GReddy PRofec B-Spec II I got from Kenny) tonight. More wires, more vac lines, more fun... but shouldn't be too bad. Any clever ideas on where to mount it? If I recall correctly, Kenny had it in the center console pocket. Was thinking somewhere farther from the shifter would be better though.

Speaking of: the center console keeps falling apart. The stupid pocket below the radio no longer stays in place, and when it comes out it brings the ashtray with it... directly on to the shifter. Also the radio tends to fall out if I dump the clutch. Meh. Simple but annoying stuff.

Spent some time double checking AFR signal calibration between the LC1, Megasquirt, and my dash gauge. Basically I configured the LC1 to output a fixed voltage, then noted the AFR in TunerStudio and the gauge. Went from 0.5v to 5.0v in 0.5v steps. Built a table in excel and interpolated to get values (average was 1 volt = 3.0AFR points), then reconfigured the LC1 to get the closest possible reading. It wasn't off by much before (maybe 0.2 AFR points) but now they are all in sync and seem to be accurate to less than 0.1 AFR points.

Need to figure out why my idle AFRs are inconsistent day-to-day. Looking at MAT correction and MAT/CLT blend table... more fun.
 
Heater hose started leaking at connection next to breather box. Hose clamp was at an impossible angle so ended up removing intake manifold and doing stuff last night:
- Removed heater hose fitting, cleaned and applied new teflon
- Removed vacuum hose barbs from intake, cleaned, reinstalled
- Plugged IAC input port on manifold with a much shorter piece of hose+bolt
- Replaced all heater hoses with new hose
- Cleaned the oily mess from when the road draft hose fell off
- Re-aligned/adjusted throttle cable
- Replaced valve cover with a non-****ty looking one

Also got the boost controller installed, works well. Need to play with it more.

Installed knock sensor and ran shielded wire to a BNC connector inside cabin. Can jack it into line input on stereo and hear everything.

Took v-band clamps off of exhaust/downpipe and reinstalled with a strip of exhaust wrap around the seam. Much quieter under hood now. Of course, now the downpipe alignment is dicked up again and it rattles against the frame under load/decel.

Todo:
- Noticed the gasket between the the turbo center section and the oil drain fitting is kinda torn and slowly seeping oil. Pretty sure I have a new gasket somewhere but will probably need to pull it all apart to replace due to wastegate setup.
- C-clip holding the actuator arm on the wastegate has disappeared. The angle of the wastegate and turbo seems to keep it in place regardless, but will replace when I do the gasket above.
- Still no tach due to wasted spark conversion. Really don't want to waste an I/O pin on a tach output, so going to look at building a diode circuit to tap the spark outputs.

Also want to bench test injectors (55lb low-z Delphi with reisitors) to properly determine dead time and voltage correction. Right now VE values below ~35 are spotty and inconsistent. After playing with dead time for several hours it seems to be close to 0.850ms. Voltage correction is currently set to something really low, like 0.05ms/v (MS default value was 0.200ms/v) because at idle AFR was jumping by about 1.5 for a change of 0.1v.

Runs good.
 
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